Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 76 to 90 of 799
Thread: Solo "Expedition" Sailboat
-
22nd October 2008, 01:41 AM #76New Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- georgia - usa
- Posts
- 7
great explanation!
Thanks - makes sense even to me. The only boat I've cobbled together was an outrigger sailing canoe (based generally on Gary D's Wa'apa). The (single) leeboard and the mast step/foot were on 18" t-track setups with toilet bolts so I could move them and try different windsurfer and dinghy rigs. I only tried one before someone stole the boat OFF MY CAR in the city (parked near a large university so I suspect a prank).
I never had the opportunity to fully test and tune the setup or learn much about the mechanics and dynamics of a leeboard but assume this would not have been a fair assessment as the mail hull was only 20" wide so, even outside the hull, the offset was small. Eventually I'll build another.
I purchased the plans and was going to build a GIS, but the RAID41, while not as elegant, is a better fit with my abilities and needs.
Thanks again,
j
-
22nd October 2008 01:41 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
22nd October 2008, 01:57 AM #77SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 848
Hi MIK
there is currently some early discussion of RAID41 on the yahoo open boats group and the subject of dagger board / centreboard has come up again. The simplicity and clean cockpit is sort of winning at the moment.
There was a possibility of allowing for the builder to fit a centreboard if it was really wanted. Is that still an option - I did not want to say it was on the yahoo site if it would compromise the design in its latest form.
Or alternatively it could be something drawn up for a later version I guess.
Brian
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/openboat/messages?o=1
think you have to join to see the messages though.
-
22nd October 2008, 05:02 AM #78Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 69
Yes, I have been on the Openboat boat group too. Having mused thoroughly over the daggerboard I am now firmly of the opinion that it is the best choice - I think this boat needs to be kept absolutely as light as possible. I really like the idea of such a potentially capable boat that can be cartopped.
With this in mind I will ask the question I just put up on the other group - should have asked it here anyway!
"Thinking about cartopping - I assume that the spars will be shorter than the
boat? If so will they have to be lashed on top or do you think there will be scope for poking them through an inspection hatch and keeping them actually within the hull?"
I am really looking forward to the build blog! Not as much as I am the sailing one though!
Regards,
Chris
-
22nd October 2008, 10:20 AM #79
G'day Michael
Given the amount of water which is NOT in the lower lakes at the moment, it might be
worth the performance penalty of two shorter inboard leeboards to open up more
sailable water. This is, after all, a boat for poking around & exploring in, not just gobbling
up the miles ! Same applies to the channels north of the Port River, & probably
a host of other places around the world.
Depending upon how the centreboard case arranged at the moment, it might also
allow a slightly longer sleeping space for those of us who are 6'2"" or taller ?
Do you have any general arrangement sketches you can put on-line yet ?
cheers
AJ
-
22nd October 2008, 11:33 AM #80
Howdy ... I probably won't be drawing up a swinging centreboard version.
Here we talk about centreboards as a generic term which break down into
Daggerboards or Dagger Centreboards
Swinging Centreboards
Seems to me a Centre board is a board in the centre and should be contrasted with a lee board that is not.
OK ... maybe a nice point.
BUT the structure will allow for a swinging board to be fitted on the centreline quite easily - I will allow for it so people can fit one if they want. It won't be a part of the initial plans. At least the swinging board makes a lot more sense for this boat than with the PDRacer - no space because the centreboard is already a long way back and long so a case would almost go to the transom, or GIS - where it would divide up the already small space in the main working area of the boat (the mid seat and just behind it)
BACK to the Expedition/RAID
One problem is that the rowing function forces the self draining floor to be quite low in the boat. I have angled if aft a little to self drain through the transom (and through the centrecase of course) but the transom will be solid ply to stop water coming in (with some scuppers). I am a little worried that if the centreboard slot swings too far back then water might come in a bit. But some windsurfers and racing dinghies use sailcloth covers over the tops of their swinging centreboards.
We will see ... the only option is to increase the freeboard .. but that increases weight and makes the boat harder for one person to manage in shallows or on land and will make it blow round while rowing.
We will see.
Best wishes
Michael
(The boat has been drawn with a daggerboard, but the subcockpit structure has been designed to deal with a swinging centreboard with some changes. Still ruins the cockpit in my opinion and may splash water ... but this can be prevented by a sock that covers the board and slot fastened down to cockpit floor. Houndtooth Check, anyone?)Last edited by Boatmik; 30th November 2008 at 07:51 PM.
-
22nd October 2008, 11:41 AM #81
Excellent point Clarkey. Don't know if it will be quite feasible but I will keep it in mind over the next week. The front end is OK - a hole needs to go there anyhow ... the back end where the stick needs to be fed in might be a bit tricky with the transom and the mizzen mast partner
Will see
MIK
-
22nd October 2008, 07:50 PM #82SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 848
The Caledonia Raid has a long section of canal where sailing is not allowed, so good rig stowage when rowing a Raid section might be really helpful.
Here are some pics from Caledonia 2008 to give a flavour
http://albums.phanfare.com/2963156/2...ageID=28585648
Brian
-
23rd October 2008, 04:28 AM #83Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 69
Yes, it would be nice to be able to strike the rig and stow it for a long row, especially against a strong headwind. That might prove mighty tricky though, the mainmast would have to stow pretty much on the centerline.
What will happen at the transom? Presumably there will need to be some holes or transom flaps in it so that the boat can self-drain quickly enough? Maybe the spars could be poked through them in order to wiggle them into place?
Even though I would like to row standing up most of the time (blah blah, drone, venetian rowing - my pet subject) I would prefer to sit down and pull in the usual way in adverse conditions. What is proposed for a rowing seat? I would REALLY like to avoid a fixed thwart , there wouldn't be much space under it and it would ruin the boat for sleeping. I can envisage a small seat about 150mm off the cockpit floor attached to a plug which drops into the daggerboard slot and stabilised with a couple of short legs or side-pieces. Maybe this could be dropped into place over the stowed spars?
Chris
-
23rd October 2008, 05:37 AM #84SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 848
Chris, could you tell us more about how the standing up rowing might work on RAID41. I will probably only row away from the beach when setting off early on the tide when Keyhaven is very shallow and anywhere there is some water there are moorings, so rowing out standing up, facing where I am going and not hitting moored boats would be a good alternative. Brian
-
23rd October 2008, 06:01 AM #85Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 69
Hi Brian,
If you just want to get off the beach into clear water then you don't need anything too special, just a pair of oars and probably a set of extended height rowlocks. Relatively short oars should be fine - you don't really want overlap on the handles when threading your way through boats. I will try and google for some images of Maine 'peapods' which were often rowed like this for short distances.
I remember an old edition of 'Watercraft' which had a picture of a German raid boat. The crew sat forward and rowed in the conventional way while the helm stood aft and rowed facing forward. They said that this worked really well because they could chat to each to each other and the crew could concentrate on providing power knowing that the helm could see where they were going. As I recall the rowlocks for the helm were about 20cm taller than those of the crew but this would obviously depend on the boat.
Standing is no problem in relatively calm conditions but with a flat bottomed boat the motion can be really quick in disturbed chop - hence my desire for a sitting down option too.
The two Venetian styles are a bit more involved and are really aimed at rowing long distances or in narrow canals - you don't really want to bother with crossed oars held in the 'wrong' hands when you are trying to weave between other boats!
Hope this helps,
Chris
-
23rd October 2008, 06:31 AM #86SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 848
Something like these, but hopefully at a more affordable price , the picture gives the idea
http://www.duck-trap.com/hardware.html
Brian
-
23rd October 2008, 07:40 AM #87Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 69
Yes, those are exactly what I had in mind!
My only concern would be the narrow beam of RAID41 which may make the gearing a bit heavy. I think for just getting the boat off the beach I would go for really short oars and accept that rowing any distance would be a chore. If you wanted I guess you could mount the rowlocks off the vertical and splay them out. That would let you use longer blades but would make coming alongside other boats, walls etc. a bit of a pain.
I can't wait to see how this boat looks in the flesh!
Chris
-
23rd October 2008, 08:18 AM #88Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 69
Blimey! You are right, I just saw the price!
Gondolas have intricately carved hardwood rowlocks ('forcole') that cost a small fortune but more modest boats often make do with a short plank stuck vertically through a slot in the sidedeck. A 'U' is cut in the top to take the oar and reinforced to stop the wood splitting. I guess the modern approach would be to wrap some glass tape around the base of the 'U' and epoxy it in place. The plank would go down to a socket on the chine log and is usually held in place by a wooden wedge or two. Job done, just pull them out for sailing.
Chris
-
23rd October 2008, 09:15 AM #89
Howdy ...
look how the shoulders are in line with the oar handle in this gun racing team.
-
23rd October 2008, 01:52 PM #90New Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Annapolis, MD, USA
- Posts
- 9
Sculling
Another solution would be to mount an oarlock on the transom and scull over the stern.
Ron
Similar Threads
-
"I see stupid people!" or "spot the blithering idiot"
By journeyman Mick in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 46Last Post: 29th October 2010, 07:29 AM -
Difference "Galvanised" and "Primed" Steel
By Fr_303 in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 4Last Post: 22nd January 2008, 05:59 PM -
Triangles, "Copy" and "Past"
By niki in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.Replies: 8Last Post: 14th February 2007, 08:06 PM -
Turned "red Ash", and "Hairy Walnut?"
By cedar n silky in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 7Last Post: 25th July 2006, 02:01 AM -
"Shining gum" or "Nitens" - anyone heard of this
By AshleyM in forum TIMBERReplies: 10Last Post: 15th July 2005, 05:46 PM