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Thread: Texas GIS
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22nd March 2010, 03:12 PM #211Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
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- Texas
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- 319
I am pretty sure it was because it was "their" type of music and the volume of it.
This evenings work was with older music I like at a "white noise" background level. We all did much better. Plus, I turned it into a game of "Name That Tune and Artist". They actually know who Freddie Mercury is!
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22nd March 2010 03:12 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd March 2010, 03:27 PM #212Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Texas
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- 319
Weekend Update From Texas GIS
We had a very good weekend of boat work. Hull is glued, straight, no twist and chines are planed ready for the bottom. Now don't laugh too hard when you look at how we checked for hull twist, I just happen to have a surveyors laser level.
After we planed the chines down we took a good look in the stem area to find out what the loud "crack" was when were screwing things together. The chine log pulled away from the ply creating a fracture in the plywood. In the attached picture you can see the fracture, separated chine and ply and the hollow area it created. A little bit of fillet glue fixed the crack. I will create a gusset in this area to help stablize and support the weakened joint.
We dropped the bottom on and it is within 2mm of being straight from stem to transom along the bottoms center line.
03-20-10 - a set on Flickr
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22nd March 2010, 10:04 PM #213
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24th March 2010, 03:33 PM #214Senior Member
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- Dec 2009
- Location
- Texas
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- 319
Installed the bottom tonight.
We took 5 hours to dry fit, remove, tape, epoxy, screw down, flip hull, check for twist and clean up the boat.
Now us men can stare at our Goat.
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24th March 2010, 04:20 PM #215
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25th March 2010, 03:13 AM #216Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Texas
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- 319
We used blue painters tape to help keep the boat clean at the chine and bulkhead areas and on the outside chine area. The picture of the ozze was taken when the boat was still upside down. The cleanup went well.
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25th March 2010, 05:10 PM #217
Yet another slightly different approach, with yet another positive outcome.
Well done. Your effort with the bevels and setting up is the explanation for having the boat so straight. Well done, Well done.
Michael
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26th March 2010, 08:31 AM #218Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Texas
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- 319
What size anchor does a Goat need?
I have a small folding anchor that can be used as a lunch hook.
If the weather gets bad I will beach the boat, but if there is a gear failure I don't want to be blown onto a lee shore.
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26th March 2010, 09:57 AM #219
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26th March 2010, 01:31 PM #220SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Portland, ME USA
- Posts
- 837
A 10-15 lb er ought to do it.
Looks like we'll be busy in APril!!!!!!!
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30th March 2010, 01:07 AM #221Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Texas
- Posts
- 319
We took our Goat for a short walk outside so it could enjoy the sunny weather and so we could fit the side cleats. Rolled it back in, let the hull cool down then glued all the side cleats in. We were surprised that the balance point on the hull was so far forward. It makes sense that it is right at the daggerboard, it just looks strange.
My Sea-Sure rudder gudgeons finally arrived after being on back order (4 weeks) from the new West Marine cataloge. They did require a slightly wider housing spacer block. I had to build the piece from some left overs in order to get the right fit. I made the spacer deep enough so the aft bolts would have good contact with the spacer block.
This will be the last report until after April 10. Professional exams need to be studied for.
So to all of you other Goat builders we wish you the best of luck over the next 2 weeks.
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30th March 2010, 08:11 PM #222
Good luck to you too John. Knock 'em dead.
MIK
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1st April 2010, 01:46 AM #223Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Texas
- Posts
- 319
We used the plastic bag technique to apply the thickened epoxy to the chine logs when putting the bottom. We used the System 3 fillet material and added some raw epoxy to get the peanut butter consistency needed to squeeze it out of the bag.
It always helps that your helpers have a sense of humor. While gloved and concentrating on keeping the epoxy on the chine, my daughter applied the “protective” tape to my nose. It stayed on until we were finished.
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2nd April 2010, 01:09 PM #224
John, can you shoot out a link for that particular rudder hardware? I'm struggling over here in NH with several different options, none very compatible with the boat.
Also, where are you going to get the pin? Or does that come with it?
Thanks-
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2nd April 2010, 11:50 PM #225SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Savannah GA USA
- Posts
- 583
McMaster-Carr has stainless rod in a variety of alloys including 316. I used 304 for my Goat. I had to buy a 36" length but the price was reasonable. I simply drilled holes in each end for split rings. I wish I had thought to bend an L in the top but lacking a torch to heat it I took the less expensive route.
The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/
Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/
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