Thread: Texas GIS

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Remember Duckworks does mail order for rudder pintles and gudgeons too.

Michael

I've got two sets of pintles and gudgeons from Duckworks, and it's just not coming together.

I did these first because I was toying around with the idea of notching the transom a bit to allow for up-and-down

Duckworks Boatbuilders Supply

but the 1.5" doesn't fit my 1.5" rudder. I even bent the arms, and it wasn't going to work.

So then I bought these two, to do the pintle-less option per Mik's plans:

Transom gudgeon: Duckworks Boatbuilders Supply

Rudder gudgeon: Duckworks Boatbuilders Supply

Duckworks even says they can be matched for this. But the rudder gudgeon in the 1.5" fits perfectly the rudder stock, but the arms are too long and extend past the spacer, and when lined up gudgeon to gudgeon I don't get a clean hole, it's lopsided, and a spare pintle I stuck in there reveals that they turn sloppily with each other.

So I'm a little miffed, and looking for the other option.

I went with these:

Duckworks Boatbuilders Supply

for my pdracer. I was happy with them. They go up to 3" in 1/4" increments.

I realize it doesn't work with the one long rod but I don't really see a lot of reason to even take it off. Just leave it on and take out the blade.

You could allow the front hole to align with the spacer and then fit a block inside the front end of the fitting.

The back holes do go through the cheeks and use the countersunk bolts from the inside.

It will give you a bit more feel to the helm, but the boat is very neutral anyhow and won't pull your arm out of its socket when you are steering.

Best wishes
Michael

Here are the links to the Sea Sure gudgeon I ordered from West Marine.


West Marine: Rudder Fittings Product Display


West Marine: Transom Fittings Product Display

Took a study break and glued on the bow strip to protect the end grain of the plywood. Looked at clever ways to hold it on without any screws during glue-up, but decided on just using some screws and cleats.

I note you rebated the Gunwales. Nice little detail for the woodworkers amongst us.

I never qualify as a woodworker - I am too lazy!

Best wishes
Michael

Thank you John.

I'm loathe for the plastic, but if they work, they work. How do they look, will they hold up for a while, or go chalky after a few years in the sun? I'm assuming they look good since you plunked down the cashola for them.

Also, BobWes and I dropped in a dowel to protect the bow, I used a hardwood 3/8" dowel that I planed down to a half-circle and then taped it on the bow. Just another technique, not better or worse.

"I'm loathe for the plastic, but if they work, they work. How do they look, will they hold up for a while, or go chalky after a few years in the sun? I'm assuming they look good since you plunked down the cashola for them."

West Marine sells both aluminum and plastic fittings. The Sea Sure gudgeon "are manufactured from a heat-treated corrosion-resistant aluminum alloy with black anodized finish for complete protection".

I am using the alum ones that Sea-Sure makes. They appear to be a quality product and have a nice solid ring to them when you tap them with something metal. The anodizing of transom mount gudgeon were 2 different shades of gray. Not bad just enough so I can tell. The mounting holes in the rudder housing gudgeon will only take a #10 bolt, which seems a little on the light side. After gluing up the rudder housing and getting all the hardware mounted it is most likely very a strong unit.

I would not use the plastic ones on my GIS. I do not think they would last long enough.

Originally Posted by Boatmik

I note you rebated the Gunwales. Nice little detail for the woodworkers amongst us.

I never qualify as a woodworker - I am too lazy!

Best wishes
Michael

Don't anybody go thinking I am a woodworker. I had to clean all the grease off my tools and garage floor from the car work I do. Nothing worse than getting car grease on fresh wood. One thing I do like about this epoxy stuff is it is easier to get out from under your finger nails.(after it cures) Also I don't have to crawl under a car and have dirt and grease drop into my eyes, just saw dust. It still hurts, just not as long.

If you're worried about the #10 bolts just bed the fittings in some 3M 5200 or one of the Sikaflex adhesive-sealants. Give it a month and you could probably remove the bolts.

Thanks John, they looked plasticky, but I didn't read the description. Bad on me. You going to get a pin from a metal shop nearby? Or do you hvae another idea? I've GOT to get this figured out.

There are very small loads on the rudder of the Goat. I think the #10 translates to 3/16? Which is fine.

Has to be bolts - I wouldn't trust adhesives in this location, though they do help support the bolt function.

MIK

Some builders, based on the pictures, put the tank tops on first then the wales, as per the instruction book, while others finish the wales before the tank tops are glued in place.

What are the pros/cons for either way???

Originally Posted by john goodman

Some builders, based on the pictures, put the tank tops on first then the wales, as per the instruction book, while others finish the wales before the tank tops are glued in place.

What are the pros/cons for either way???

Hi John
I also had the same thoughts. I think if your boat is straight, it probably doesn't matter too much. However if your boat has a slight twist it likely would be easier to straighten the hull and glue the tank tops before the wales, as the tops lock down any tendency for lateral twist.

Also, the side arms go on after the tank tops and these provide vertical stiffness to support the wales, so I would think the plan order is best, ie. tank top|side arms|wales.

Some builders add the side arms before the tank tops, but I would not recommend this as it makes fitting the tank tops more difficult. I found this out!

My recommendation is to stick to the plan order.