Thread: Texas GIS

I must admit I've never seen a plastic table saw, but isn't that the way of everything now?

I've used two saws on my build, a jigsaw and a dozuki. Apart from the hatch holes, I think the dozuki could have done everything else. Before work started on my GIS, I thought I needed a table saw, but now it's way down on my list of "nice to haves".

The dozuki is king!
Attachment 134692

Spent some time figuring out how to hold all the rudder hardware together while trying to align the rudder head onto the transom. Picked up a 12" long, 5/16"diameter piece of all-thread and a few nuts and washers.

Thread all the nuts and fittings together onto the rudder housing and tighten the nuts slightly to hold it all together. It should be easier to align the rudder since there is only one thing to hold.

And yes, those are burn marks on the upper rudder head gudgeon. The kiddos drilled a hole slightly wrong and the gudgeons did not align. They used the propane torch to heat the bolts so they would loosen up and caught the epoxy on fire. Burning epoxy smells bad.

No harm done, just a little pre-boating patina.

John,

How did the sizing work for those rudder gudgeons? When WestMarine says, 1.5" blade does that mean width or length of the blade? They are missing a critical descriptor measurement on the rudder gudgeons, or else I'm blind.

West Marine: Rudder Fittings Product Display

Thanks.

Also I altered my rear-sit fitting from the plans due to local weather conditions and extenuating circumstances, though I will say I had no problems sliding the seat into position after I installed the side arms, it actually held it in place which meant I didn't need to worry about fastening it to keep it from sliding forward.

My cheap table saw died 6 or 8 months ago so I went to Craigslist and found an old all metal Delta saw with a cast iron table...for $100. It works like a charm.

I don't know how you'd build a boat without a table saw to rip up the lumber.

Re: the threaded rod--what was the reason for using it instead of plain rod?

Originally Posted by MiddleAgesMan

I don't know how you'd build a boat without a table saw to rip up the lumber.

I ordered my GIS timber from two different suppliers. Both were happy to provide the timber sized according to Mick's plans, for no extra charge

The only timbers I had to resize were the inwales, and that was my mistake in the ordering. I had to plane a 19mm down to 15mm.

Originally Posted by MiddleAgesMan

My cheap table saw died 6 or 8 months ago so I went to Craigslist and found an old all metal Delta saw with a cast iron table...for $100. It works like a charm.

When I build another boat I will buy an old all metal table saw. Mine is a portable one with wheels and it is too light. I put a board across the leg braces and stack 2 large cider bricks on. This keeps the saw from tipping and moving around.

Re: the threaded rod--what was the reason for using it instead of plain rod?

The threaded rod is only used to hold things together, acting as another set of hands. By having all the pieces captured on the rod you can look at the alignment without having to hold 4 things, rudderhousing, 2 transom guegons and pin. The other reason is I still don't have the final pin fabricated.

I don't know how you'd build a boat without a table saw to rip up the lumber.

a)friendly timber supplier who is happy and able to cut to exact dimensions
plus
b)Skilsaw, lots of clamps, a couple of Workmates and a bit of ingenuity

Mind you, I ain´t finished yet!

Steve

[QUOTE=callsign222;1139022]John,

How did the sizing work for those rudder gudgeons? When WestMarine says, 1.5" blade does that mean width or length of the blade? They are missing a critical descriptor measurement on the rudder gudgeons, or else I'm blind.

QUOTE]

I have to go to the seasure website to get help with this too.
seasure

I bought the following:
Rudder Housing, 38mm (1.5"), 18-04 ( West Marine #11019700)
Transom Fittngs, 22mm (height), 18-12, (West Marine #11019858)

The 38mm is the space between the arms. That is enough room for (2) 6mm plys and a 26mm spacer, which is 2mm larger that the plans. I will add some very thin indoor/outdoor carpet to inside of the housing to take up the 2mm difference since I built my rudder first.

I would build my rudder 2 mm thicker next time. If the carpet does not work I will add another layer of 4oz fiberglass cloth to the rudder to make it a little fatter.

Hope this helps

The other alternative is to make your rudder stock the correct width for your blade and make aluminium spacers for the fittings. Less hassle than glassing the foils.

Or ply or plastic spacers.

Or laminate a few layers of glass offcuts onto a plastic sheet and cut them out to be spacers.

MIK

I will be making a new rudder and dagger board in the future that has a deeper cord depth and have made the rudder & dagger board housings 2mm wider to accommodate the future boards. This gives me the option of playing with a more aggression foil shape.

The kids and I continue to glue all the little pieces together. The rear deck supports and hatch were glued up last night. My daughter worked on her planning skills and got the bottom of the dagger board case to match the boat bottom.
Before we glued the rear deck structure in I checked the #4 bulkhead to make sure it was straight. The straight edge revealed the top of the bulkhead had bowed forward about ¼” (6mm). In the pictures you can see a small brace between blkh#3 &4. Just a little pressure pushed it straight. Cut the deck supports to length and glued it all together with the temporary brace in place.
The little brackets in the rear tank with the holes will be the anchor points for the bungee cord that will hold the rear inspection port in place.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...cb-paddles.jpg

Since I will be sailing in some very thin water during this summer's trip, could the eureka centerboard be adapted to a Goat?

Not that I have any extra time to build it, just wondering.

It is the same building time as a second goat board. You would have to put a spacer adapter in to keep the Eureka board in the front end of the centrecase too.

MIK

Originally Posted by Boatmik

It is the same building time as a second goat board. You would have to put a spacer adapter in to keep the Eureka board in the front end of the centrecase too.
MIK

My question was not clear. I will try it another way.

Could you adapt the Drop-in Sail Rig to fit the Goat and use it as a leeboard? I would think the cross beam would need to be a little stronger and the "leeboard" would be sized about the same as the stock daggerboard.