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Thread: Texas GIS

  1. #436
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

    Default Seasonal Boat Damage

    I have started planing the repairs on our GIS after a great season of sailing. Maybe this could be it's our thread since there are so many of us with finished boats and we can share what repairs our boats need?

    We had run aground really hard a few times and the trailing edge of the daggerboard sliced into the rear part of the case. I need some advice on the repair.

    The top aft of the case is wearing because my elastic cord pulls the trailing edge of the daggerboard against the case.

    The top edge of the rudder case has some slight wear.

    The bottom along the chines in a few locations had some good scars due to the oyster reefs we ran into. There are also a few scars from my river trip too. Getting the repairs done will be easy, however matching our GIR green will be a challenge.

    I carry my oars on the boat all the time. They have worn the vanish off at bulkhead #2 and the oar handles are dinging up the framing at bulkhead #3.

    The rudder and daggerboard are in real good shape and will require only minor scratch repair.

    All in all the boat has a nice patina and each scar has a great story behind it. Sanding and revarnishing the interior will be my winter project. (if I ever get back from California)

    Happy New Year!

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  3. #437
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy,

    One nice thing to avoid chafe on varnish is to use the clear plastic contact sheeting. The one that you can use to cover books - clear plastic that is sticky on one side.

    It sticks well, can be taken off easily with a little bit of warmth from a hot air gun and will prevent minor scrapes and bumps like from the oars. It goes straight on top of the varnish or paint - cut out a patch and round the corners so there is no corner to lift.

    The centrecase is potentially just a fill job if the timber has only been worn and not cracked.

    Rudderbox is just a coating job.

    Scarred paint -will just doing the bottom panel get almost all of it? That will reduce the need to get the matching right. Sand the lot, fill with epoxy and lightweight filler, patch undercoat over the repaired area until the colour is even, another patch coat of the green in a slightly larger local area and then recoat.

    Sometimes you can buy paint pigments from paint shops - take some small containers and get a squirt or two from their pigment machines for paints that match the solvent used in your intended paint. You dont' want water based pigments in thinners based paints!!! (doing a test patch can be a good idea and remember that paint usually dries darker.

    MIK

  4. #438
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    Howdy,

    One nice thing to avoid chafe on varnish is to use the clear plastic contact sheeting. The one that you can use to cover books - clear plastic that is sticky on one side.

    It sticks well, can be taken off easily with a little bit of warmth from a hot air gun and will prevent minor scrapes and bumps like from the oars. It goes straight on top of the varnish or paint - cut out a patch and round the corners so there is no corner to lift.
    There is an anti-scuff product* made by 3M but the name escapes me right now. It is also sold in various other forms under different brand names. One form is found in sports stores and is used to protect sporting equipment, such as cricket bats. Automotive shops sell the same product under another brand name where it is used to protect car bonnets from stone chips. If you're an aviator, and I think at least one of us is, then you will know the product as the one that protects the leading edges of helicopter rotor blades.

    *Edit: Just got back from Whitworths Marine and they do stock this stuff in their "tapes" section. Rolls approx 5" and 2" wide. Mick has also cautioned about using gentle heat to remove it, otherwise it WILL remove paint and varnish!

  5. #439
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    3M makes great products - almost always the best in their range. But they do charge.

    The "Contact" clear plastic sheeting lasts very well - at least a season for the thrashing jib blocks on a wire traveller setup in an NS14. Blocks close to the deck on thrashing jib sheets.

    Also it is in big sheets so you can cut patches any size you need.

    Best wishes
    MIK

  6. #440
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    I think I'm going to give it a go on the mast where the boom and yard make contact. I removed the leather wrapping as it was causing me some problems with the boom retainer catching on it. Will let you know if that works or not.

  7. #441
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

    Default

    I load up a few videos of GIR sailing. Hope you enjoy them.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIKW_4hjlfs]YouTube - gir bow wake video.AVI[/ame]

  8. #442
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

  9. #443
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    You and your video stick - how cool.

    MIK
    Our video camera and new marine grade extension pole got a work out today.

    We have 3.5 hours of raw video from today.
    Including a 2.5 hour sail that captured our 2 capsizes.
    Capsize 1 was to leeward.
    Capsize 2 was to windward.

    WOW!

    What a great day!!!!

    Working on the videos and hope to post soon.

    Happy Sailing

  10. #444
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    67
    Posts
    805

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by john goodman View Post
    Capsize 1 was to leeward.
    Capsize 2 was to windward.

    WOW!

    What a great day!!!!
    WOW!
    Great photos!
    Waiting for videos
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


  11. #445
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

    Default

    Just have share our first capsize on our Goat Island Skiff.

    Remember, I started life as a catamaran sailor, so gybing a skiff is still new to me. The water was clean, warm and we went swimming.

    We were traveling just on the front edge of the afternoon sea breeze so it was a little gusty. What really happened is I just messed up, but learned a few things.

    We were setting up to attempt a fast gybe. I think I missed reading the direction of a gust and it's speed. With my daughter in the front cockpit area the bow did not turn fast enough and I lost control. Also the floor is pretty slippery since the non-skip has worn off.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kd1hk_gmTgQ"]YouTube - GIS Capsize.wmv[/ame]

  12. #446
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

    Default

    On the lighter side this is our beach launch from one of the islands where we stopped for lunch. With the large full moon the bay was a lot lower that usual and we saw a few things in the water that we had not seen before. We backed up to miss a large chunk of rusty steel and shot out into Galveston Bay.

    The camera is mounted on a expandable pole and is set about 5 feet behind the boat.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeeWAV-JFM4"]YouTube - GIS Beach Launch.wmv[/ame]

  13. #447
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    sweeeeeeeeeeeet...

    I just love the later part of the second vid, once you start picking up speed. Excellent demonstration of what the boat can do. No offense to our dear Mr. Storer, but videos of tacking from river bank to river bank are no longer the standard!


    Only one sail this trip, huh? I'm curious about the yawl/no-yawl considerations. I'm leaning heavily toward building mine with the yawl option, reading how it benefits the single-hander. What caused you to go "standard" here?
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  14. #448
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

    Default

    Great stuff, John. Thanks for putting those up.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

  15. #449
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

    Default

    What kind of wood did you use for the trailing edge of your daggerboard, and how did you wrap it with glass tape?

    I'm really impressed with your slice in the hull, my daggerboard just crushed against the aft Cherry centercase spacer and the plywood. I also used Cherry in the trailing edge of the board, but did not wrap around the glass around the trailing edge, just finished it off flush. It looks like your board is bulletproof!

  16. #450
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by davlafont View Post
    sweeeeeeeeeeeet...

    Only one sail this trip, huh? I'm curious about the yawl/no-yawl considerations. I'm leaning heavily toward building mine with the yawl option, reading how it benefits the single-hander. What caused you to go "standard" here?
    1. My daughter and I need more sailing time before the next Texas200.
    2. I commute 3000 miles every weekend to go to and from work, so my time is very prescios.
    3. That is the fun of having 2 rigs!

    Seriously I enjoy both rigs. The original rig is so easy to set and just go sailing. All GIS owners know how easy and quick you can get into the water and go enjoy a great day of sailing. We were also trying out the new camera boom and mounting locations.

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