Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 7 of 7
-
17th June 2010, 07:09 PM #1
Goat - reinforcement below the transom tiller cutout?
HI Peter,
That setup was the original in the plan. It was something I overlooked when I drew the boat up, but there were no problems with the three Goats I had something to do with over those first years so thought it was enough.
The reason is that the "usual" rudder design puts a lot of load on the transom if it hits anything, but the open backed rudder box means the goat (and most of my boats) don't put much load on the transom at all.
Probably a ply doubler would be enough .. I will look into incorporating it in the next plan update.
Has anyone else noticed this on their Goats?
MIK
-
17th June 2010 07:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
18th June 2010, 06:35 AM #2Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- germany
- Posts
- 35
Goat - reinforcement below the transom tiller cutout?
Hi MIK,
Wrong thread?
Anyway - the biggest load from rudder to transom so far in my goat resulted from vertical loads on the tiller. I noticed that during the first dry fitting of the rudder box - my son used the tiller to brace himself. Fortunately he didn't broke something, but the upper fitting flexed the transom some 4 cm inward. So I fitted a strip of locust 15x20x250mm horizontally below the tiller opening to beef that region up.
For I haven't finished my epoxy coats, I've no experience with the dynamic loads.
Jörn
-
25th July 2010, 02:01 PM #3
Mik,
I noticed that the ply at the bottom part of the transom-cut out on my Goat was definitely bendy. Nothing I noticed underway, but when I was messing with the rudder and the tiller in the garage I noticed the flexing. I glued on a strip of 6mm wood in that area, and it stiffened it up considerably. In hindsight, I should have added a little more to transfer some of the leverage to the main part of the transom.
What concerned me is not me sailing the boat, or the rudder hitting something, but downward force applied to the tiller. One day my wife was clearing the rudder of weeds and she was applying a lot of weight to the traveler as she bent over the transom, which pushed down the tiller, which I knew was flexing the transom. It's the passengers or me slipping and coming down on the traveler or the tiller that worries me more than the rudder hitting the bottom or sailing forces.
-
30th July 2010, 05:06 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Savannah GA USA
- Posts
- 583
I added two layers of 6mm at the bottom and one layer at the top. That seemed more than adequate to my seat-of-the-pants stress analysis.
The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/
Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/
-
30th July 2010, 06:28 AM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Texas
- Posts
- 319
I used 2 layers of 6mm ply for the lower bracket. They span from the seat cleat down to the transom chine log. My upper reinforcement is part decoration & structural. It hides the nuts and is made from the same spruce as the transom cap.
-
30th July 2010, 09:40 PM #6
I made a post here but something happened and it just disappeared.
I looked at my transom recently (actually, the one on my GIS!) and notice that the transom ply below the cutout does move slightly if I apply serious downward force on the tiller. Actually, I'd be surprised if it didn't. There is no doubt that the transom is strong enough, but perhaps if someone fell onto the tiller there might be some consequences...
Based on my observations, 3 things could happen if I fell onto my tiller (again, the one on the GIS).
1. The transom could fracture, or
2. the tiller could snap off at the stock. My Hoop pine tiller is made from undersized stock compared to MIK's plans so from some flex testing so this is a possibility
3. The tiller might take the flex all the way down to the deck.
I think most likely, the tiller would fracture.
I fixed a single thickness of ply below the cutout to reinforce the top gudgeon and another to reinforce the lower. If I were to revisit this, I'd be inclined to install a triangular shaped piece 220mm at the seat level and 120mm at the cutout (maybe this is a rhombus?) to protect the transom.
Attachment 143218
-
30th July 2010, 11:06 PM #7
Trapezoid.
Maybe it's a difference in ply, but my Shelman was flexing a lot. The tiller would not have snapped, the transom would have cracked.
I've fallen already multiple times in the boat hot-dogging around in high winds. I can stay clear of the tiller usually since I'm holding it, but someone with less sailing experience such as my wife, might not.
Similar Threads
-
Where to find hinged tiller arm
By MarkInBoatshed in forum BOAT RESOURCES / PRODUCT SEARCHReplies: 7Last Post: 30th October 2009, 11:11 AM -
What wood for a new tiller?
By SimonP in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRINGReplies: 9Last Post: 28th June 2009, 02:45 AM -
Goat Island Skiff - Transom
By Joost in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 2Last Post: 14th April 2008, 05:26 PM -
Triton TRA in table - how deep cutout?
By mcarthur in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 2Last Post: 29th January 2007, 01:37 AM