Thread: 24 volt proximity switches

Will,

Which modules did you install into the rack carrier? If your using 24v proximity switches,i think you should be seeing 24v at the proxy anyway, so it doesn't sound like an issue. The rack module is made to distribute the power and setup without having alot of wiring. Socket 1&2 seems to be a switched signal (ie Switches BOB signal) for high or low depending on the status of the proxy, socket 3 is proxy power, socket 5 is proxy ground and the last socket of each module, socket 4, looks like the control signal (NO/NC) for the proxy as it has a pull up resistor on the line.

I haven't looked into this much and its late so take this with a grain of salt, and maybe someone could clarify me or at least check this against what you wired originally.

Daniel

P.S How'd you go up your way with the winds the other day?

Thanks Daniel I will go out to the shed and have another look shortly, I will write down how I wired it and post it here.
We survived the wind with not even a blackout, which was good! some people were still out this morning.There were a lot of trees down at the top of Macquarie Pass and on Jamberoo Mountain Road which closed both roads for 2 days, not good for business we went from 279 customers on Tuesday to 99 Wednesday and Thursday all back to normal now unfortunately we cant control the weather.
Will

ok been and had a look, how i have it wired is terminal 2 x, 4 y, 6 z terminals 3,5,7and 9 i have taken the negative from the 24volt power supply, other side of the board terminal 1 5volt positive,2 negative and presume 3,5,7 to breakout board for limits but not connected yet until i am sure
I turned the power on and put the multimeter on it negative probe in no2 positive probe in 3 reads 24 volt then when I activate the proximity switch it drops to 5v
Shouldn't that side read zero until the limit is activated and then go to 5volts to send the signal to the BOB? Or have I wired it the wrong way around?
Will

Hey Will,

Good to hear everything is back to normal and you weren't too badly battered up there. lol.

Onto the important stuff. The rack card you have wired, does it have any modules installed or is it just a card with terminal blocks. Just need to figure out the module wires if need be. Also can you edit or re-post the details specifying if its control or field side. Just want to be clear on the details since both sets of terminal blocks run similar number.

Daniel

***EDIT - Need the g4IDC module numbers to figure it out. ***

Hi Will

Yep I'm using a similar setup on my machine.

Can you describe using pin numbers how you have it hooked up. You should definetly not be seeing 24vdc on the logic side. To start with unplug the G4IDC module as it may be faulty.

The 24vdc supply is only wired to the prox not the Opto22 board.. only the signal and common should be used to connect to the Opto 22 board. It depends if you are wired up to source or sink on signal and if you have a 3 or 4 wire prox..

Do all your testing with the IDC module unpluged its best to test the wireing first.

Happy to help but need a bit more info.

Cheers

Mark

Daniel and Mark
The modules are G4-IDC5 10-32 volts DC, the proximity switches are 3 wire NO,on the field side I have the signal wire from the proximity switches, pin no's are x axis 2, y axis 4, z axis 6, common or negative on 3,5 and 7
on the control side 5 volt positive on 1, negative on 2, allowing 3,5 and 7 to go to the BOB for the signal.
Thanks for all the help I really appreciate it and would be stuffed without it


Will

Hi Will

That sounds right.. so with the IDC module removed monitor the voltage on pins 2 and 3 on the field side. does this change from zero to 24vdc as you actuvate the X axis sensor? 2 should be positve in relation to 3.. in my setup I sink so pins 2,4,6 etc are tied to 24vdc and the signal side is attatched to 3 etc. but source aslo works...

On the control side make sure that all the pullups are working an again without th IDC you have 5vdc on pins 3,5,7 and 9

That all works? then add the IDC without the BOB connected and ensure that the control side mimicks the field side when a prox is triggered.

Last step add the BOB.

When you said you were measuring between pin 2 and 3 was that both on the control side?... Sounds like you either have a mixed up ground or something miss connected.

Step thru it one part at a time and I'm sure you will crack it.

Cheers

Will, Mark has beat me to it and has given you a great step through of the connections. Let us all know how it goes.

Daniel

I had a look at it all today and found for some reason the polarity was reversed on the 24 volt transformer I checked it with the output wires off 24 volts when I put the wires back on I couldn't get anywhere near that, looking through the case I could see some capacitors (i think) that had leaked their filling out so I am assuming the PS is toast and will be picking a new one up at the local jaycar in the morning.
I am not sure why the polarity would be reversed it was the same on the 5 volt transformer that I put in for the BOB so I am glad I didn't hook it up.
Will

Originally Posted by wbleeker

I had a look at it all today and found for some reason the polarity was reversed on the 24 volt transformer I checked it with the output wires off 24 volts when I put the wires back on I couldn't get anywhere near that, looking through the case I could see some capacitors (i think) that had leaked their filling out so I am assuming the PS is toast and will be picking a new one up at the local jaycar in the morning.

If its just the capacitors that are gone they are fairly cheap and easy to replace, jaycar should have most sizes.

Is the 24V PSU a switchmode psu? as I know if you mix up your Active and Neutral it will switch the polarity on the DC side also.

Thanks Chris
I am not sure if the original one is a switchmode, I will put a new one in and worry about fixing it later, I will check the plug wiring and change the two wires around that should put everything right then so I can have another go at it!
Will

Okay that one is sorted out everything working as its supposed to, thanks for the help.
I actually don't know what was wrong, I got another power supply and hooked it up the same as the old one and checked polarity- it was right? so I just hooked it up and everything works fine.
The stuff in the old P/S that I thought was some filling out of the capacitors is apparently some sort of glue, the new one has the same.
On to wiring the BOB and speed control now, the only thing I am not sure about is the 5 volts to the drivers, there is only the positive wire going to the driver do I just hook up the negative to earth or what?
Thanks
Will

I haven't got a lot further, most of the wiring is done one thought that occurred to me is I now have three outputs for the limits? Do I just bridge them together and connect one wire to the BOB?
The next step is getting inside the machine to access the VFD, has anyone connected a Fuling DZB200 VFD to a DC-03 I am not sure if the VFD terminals are marked the same as on the board.
Will