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Thread: 6b4
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26th November 2011, 11:38 AM #16GOLD MEMBER
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I post machine builds on here and the Zone as I owe a lot to the community there for getting me started.
I was asked why I place the gantry rails on top and front rather than both on the front.
It is a good question so I am putting the same reply here:
My main thought is to get more separation between the linear rails. The top plate of the ganty box is 20mm thick so will carry the load. See photo.
Also the top rail is out of the firing line of the swarf and the rail is horizontal which means the bearings in the truck are taking the load equally each side. Cutting forces will change that a bit. This bearing set is four way so it probably doesn't matter all that much about the orientation of the rail but it is a tried and tested design on previous builds so I stick with it.
The bottom rail needs to be as close as it can to the cutter so the vertical mounting and getting covered in swarf is unavoidable. Bellows would fix the swarf problem but I won't be doing that.
I'm not an engineer so take my thoughts as those of an amateur machine builder who is more than happy to be pointed in the right direction.
A little more on the gantry box.
There are another two plates that complete the box and will pick up the ballscrew which is mounted on the back of the beam. A good position to avoid swarf again. Note the slotted mountings so that I can adjust everything square and make sure it is not binding.Cheers,
Rod
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26th November 2011 11:38 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th November 2011, 08:46 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Rod: Where is that table T slot extrusion from and what is your method for holding it to the frame?
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30th November 2011, 08:58 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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The track I use is heavier and slightly wider than the Australis track - also more expensive. Here
I use 40 x 40 x 5 angle into the frame T slot and then into the track with their T nuts.
Works well but i have intermediate frame members at less than 200mm spacing - I like them strong.Cheers,
Rod
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1st December 2011, 10:17 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Rod
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4th December 2011, 12:40 PM #20GOLD MEMBER
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A little more of the base. I have recycled some panels from verge collections so there are joins and there were a few cosmetic scratches but I have managed to avoid the worst.
Top and base is 25mm which after fitting I realised I now can't fit the switchboard in the bottom compartment. No biggy as I can swap it around with the VFD and fit a covering panel to fill the gaps.
The top will have 25mm ally angle as an edging so the the chipboard doesn't get damaged if it bumps into something.
In the first photo the holes in the dividing panel are to distribute air which is draw in from under the base - see second photo for that. The idea is to draw in air under the machine where there is the least amount of dust/swarf to carry into the electronics and controls. On a smaller machine like this I might add filters to the intake holes but will run it first to see how it goes.
The drawer runners are in and can open 600mm. They are those three stage bearing slides and by using two pair it should carry the load OK. The console will hinge upwards from inside the drawer and be held at about 80 degrees. The drawer can then be pushed in a little so it is not so far from the machine.
Rather than add a new post have added to this one to show progress today - not much as it was 37 degrees.
I have done the ally edging on the table top and rebated that in so it is fulsh with the surface.
Made a shelf and fitted up a ACO-009 air pump that will supply air to the cutter for cooling and clearing swarf. Additional air vents added as I have changed my mind on a few things.Last edited by rodm; 4th December 2011 at 08:18 PM. Reason: Added photo and text
Cheers,
Rod
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4th December 2011, 10:17 PM #21
Nice work there Rod.
Davidgiveitagoturning @hotmail.com
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4th December 2011, 11:59 PM #22GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks David
The internal colours are a bit of a worry but I would rather recylcle board than buy new. They will be covered by the outside skin so it should be OK.Cheers,
Rod
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5th December 2011, 10:20 PM #23
Next time I call around I will go out of my way to point it out.
Davidgiveitagoturning @hotmail.com
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6th December 2011, 02:20 AM #24GOLD MEMBER
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Cheers,
Rod
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22nd December 2011, 06:14 PM #25Senior Member
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Hi Rod,
Out of interest what height do you make your stands?
Thanks
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22nd December 2011, 06:28 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
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This one the framwork is 800 high and another 130 for the wheels. There is another 100mm to the machine bed so around 1m off the ground. I'm not tall but I find bending over hard on my back when setting up.
The 800mm high framework gives plenty of height to mount switchboard, computer and other bits.Cheers,
Rod
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22nd December 2011, 06:46 PM #27Senior Member
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Cheers for that, what I had in my mind 900-1000 usual work bench height.
I'm short so I think I will aim for the 900 mark.
Do you have any issues with the wheels? I know some machines use leveling feet. Wheels are much more convienent though. I guess you can place some packers under the wheels if leveling was an issue though.
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22nd December 2011, 07:08 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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The machine and stand are heavy so it doesn't get affected when operating the machine - sudden stops and starts. Leveling hasn't been a problem for me although I use it on a concrete floor. The weight and rigity of the welded steel frame helps overcome any levelling issues - if there are any.
Cheers,
Rod
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23rd December 2011, 01:06 AM #29GOLD MEMBER
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Been a bit slack although this part of the build is fidly and takes time anyway. Clearing out the camera so a couple of shots to update the thread.
I made a facia for the electrical switches and electronics switchboard then fitted up the components and labelled with engraved 2mm acrylic sheet. I had to swap the switchboard and VFD around to fit in the frame - 1mm shy of fitting in but you can't compress a box - yeah I tried.
The remainder of the base will be clad with ally checker plate with some fixed panels and some hinged for access to wiring, air pump and computer.Cheers,
Rod
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26th December 2011, 10:08 PM #30GOLD MEMBER
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Just dashed out before the sun set and took photos of today's effort. I have cut the checker plate panels and mounted one end and the front door. I have put a foam seal around the door to restrict dust ingress. Also fitted handles to help move it around.
Cheers,
Rod