Thread: Need Advice Sydney / Outer west area

From the looks of your drawing you could easily reverse the slides so that the bolt holes are on the outside edges of the assembly and that will give you some extra room.

Why do you feel the need to have everything set at such close proximity?

Bob Willson

The reason everything in just close proximity is that I'm working from plans for the tron router and upgrading to linear bearing rails and Ballscrews.There is not much room to work with.
I've decided the sink the ballnut into the aluminum block and then countersink the holes in the ballnut so I don't have the heads of the cap screws hitting anything.
Will still have to machine a little bit of the sides of the ballnut so i don't hit the holes in the aluminium block.

Ken

i know your trying to stick to the plan , but pushing out the rails as far as you can (wide) and adding 20mm to the length of the rails , and hole z axis , will give you 10mm more room , dont forget you have to get your limit switches in there some where

Originally Posted by SawDustSniffer

if you remove the ball nut from the ball thread , the balls bounce ,( on the floor) and are a bugger to get back in ,
to machine it on the ball screw might be a bugger as well , not sure of the brand your using , but beware , once the balls fall out ,its a bugger

can you sink you ball nut into the aluminium block >?????

It is very easy to remove ball nuts from screws without dropping the ball bearings. I have used the following method many times to facilitate ball screw machining, ball nut fitting(RSU style) etc.
All you need is either a round tube or bar of approx the same diameter as the minor diameter of the ball screw ie the diameter of the screw that the balls contact.
Hold the screw in a vise, workmate or similar (with soft jaws) firmly hold rod or tube up against the screw and wind off the nut. Simple.
One advantage of the solid bar is that you can put a small amount of blu-tak on the end to help stop it from slipping off the screw.
With my solid bars I have drilled and taped them so I can put on a bolt with a large washer at each end. This is to stop the nut slipping off later.
With tube style I usually pass a cable tie through the tube and then do it up for the same reason.
Hope this helps
Cheers
David

PS If you machine your screw for bearings/couplers etc more than a mm or so smaller than the screw minor diameter the tube method is mandatory so you can slide the tube over the machined area so the nut can engage on the threads again without falling out

Hi Guys

Along the lines of Kiwiken's first post asking who is local...

I'm on the Central Coast and anyone is more than welcome to come over for a chat. My build log is over here : Yet another Aussie biuld log - CNCzone.com-The Largest Machinist Community on the net! and well over due for an update.

Cheers
Mark