Thread: Alpha Zoot ... new aussie machine on the way!

Hi Alan,
IMHO bandsaw is safer that all other methods but if the sheet overhangs the table you will want to add support. I would just use a hardwood blade but I am slack.
Clean your bandsaw tyres down afterwards as the swarf get's imbedded in the rubber.
Alternative is to talk to somebody with a CNC machine. One of the big advantages is perfect bolt hole patterns and you can put a bit of shape into your design.

Greetings all,
Have been looking at cable management and have produced the attached PDF. Any suggestions?
I am planning on buying some E-Chain for the job, but the only supplier I have come up with so far is a company called Treotham Automation at Brookvale, Sydney who supply the IGUS e-chain. I am not looking at a supersized chain, just something to finish the machine off and make it look as professional as I can ... probably something in the order of 35 wide x 25 high. But as I have my Y axis carrier wrapped completely around my gantry rail, I could not fix a channel to the rail itself, so have opted for a separate channel running from side to side and supported by the gantry ends.

Cheers,

Alan

Hi Alan,

Greolt has the name of a Melbourne supplier and I think it is not all that expensive.

I have got echain from these ebay suppliers and can recommend them as reliable.
Here are a couple of listings and they are multiple buys so get two and click them together if you want longer lengths. They are different sizes in each listing.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Flexible-cable-carrier-IGUS-R28-09-New_W0QQitemZ130259857038QQihZ003QQcategoryZ67000QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


http://cgi.ebay.com/CNC-cable-Wire-track-carrier-guide-for-stepper-motors_W0QQitemZ260294595711QQihZ016QQcategoryZ4667QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
http://cgi.ebay.com/CNC-IGUS-WIRE-TRACK-CABLE-CARRIER-BARGAIN-STEPPER-MOTO_W0QQitemZ330256864829QQihZ014QQcategoryZ4667QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

These sellers have some interesting CNC gear listed so if you want to waste some time have a look at their full listings. Hubbard CNC is good for pulleys and belts but they are imperial sizes.

Here is a link to a PDF that I have found hard to find again,

http://web.aanet.com.au/greolt/cable%20chain.pdf

I see a lot of machine pictures where builders make the mistake of getting too small a radius.

The advantage of getting it from this supplier is to specify what size and radius you really need rather than what you can score off ebay.

I also found the prices compared favourably with ebay too. Though sometimes bargains can be had on ebay. Just not for me.

Greg

Greg,
Are to referring to the radius of the chain so that if it is too small then you end up with an "S" bend in the unsupported piece?

Rod

This pic illustrates the radius that I was referring to.

They come in a range of radius sizes with the idea of using the radius that is most appropriate to your design.

Cables are available that are designed for continuous flexing in automation but they are hideously expensive. I don't think any of us hobby builders would be using them.

With that in mind it might be a good idea to go for a slightly larger radius than the tightest one available. Larger radius does not work the cable as hard.

Greg

.

Thanks Greg
We are on the same page. I have seen a cable carrier used that was meant for data cable and I thought at the time it was probably going to cause more trouble than not having it in the first place.

I picked up all of my metal yesterday, almost got a hernia lifting the main side channels. This is going to be some weighty table!
I have shaped the ends of the channels to my design and today they go off to the milling man to true up the top surface. A mate is going to weld base plates and fish plates to my legs on Saturday ... I can't weld for nuts ... have tried mig and stick and even oxy, but the results are horrible. Best to get a competent mate to do it! Then early next week another mate will sand blast everything for me before I start assembly.
Talking about weight ... I can't see that I will ever be able to move this machine when it is finished, so I think I am going to have to build it and paint it in position. If we ever experience a cyclone or tornado, I am going to camp under the table!
Nothing photo worthy yet ... just bundles of bits and pieces.

Cheers,

Alan

Originally Posted by Zoot

This is going to be some weighty table!....................
...................... If we ever experience a cyclone or tornado, I am going to camp under the table!

This tells me you have the potential for a great machine.

Think about the possibility of machining both top and bottom of the channels to bring them true to each other.

When the table supports bolt to the bottom of the both channels to form one solid structure, you want the top surfaces to be true.

Also it may keep things straighter, as skimming both sides equally will help with any stress relieving issues.

Greg

Good suggestion Greg.
I am off to the machinist now so will get him to do both surfaces.
Cheers,
Alan

PS ... Machinist happy to do both top and bottom ... ready Tuesday.

Thanks again Greg for the suggestion about getting both top and bottom of the side channels milled. The machinist said that there was quite a bit of stress relieving movement and in some spots had to mill off 1.5mm.

Things are slowing slightly, my Mother in Law is coming to stay for a few weeks, so I am off CNC and on to painting the spare bedroom!!

Cheers,

Alan

Have slowed a bit ... my mate who is welding the base plates to the legs has just changed jobs and hasn't got around to it. In the meantime, I am painting all of my metal pieces and will start drilling holes etc in the next couple of days. Am still waiting for my bolts and screws to arrive as well.

Also a slight problem with a ballnut ... see other thread!!

Cheers,

Alan

After spending weeks cleaning out the shed to fit the new machine in, I am getting close to bolting things together.

My real victory for today was however, to refit the balls into my ballnut which you will remember I unscrewed from the ballscrew to machine one end a bit more! DON'T DO IT! THE BALLNUT IS NOT MEANT TO COME OFF THE BALLSCREW!! Anyway, using Greolts method with a dab of grease I was able to refit all of the balls and after lots of trial and error it only took about an hour and no balls left over ,,, hooray!

The ballnut has a grease nipple ... dumb question ... is that for grease of some other less sticky lubricant?

Cheers,

Alan

Originally Posted by Zoot

After spending weeks cleaning out the shed to fit the new machine in,.............................

Any chance of coming to my place and cleaning my shed?

Greg