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  1. #136
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Gippsland Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    50

    Default CNC Advice

    Hi

    I am not sure where to start as the is a huge topic. I am a professional joiner with 46 years experience and use a CNC nearly every day so I am coming from another perspective. However I will try and advise you based on your question.

    In short you only get what you are paying for. As far as machines go it all depends on how much you are going to use the CNC. If its every day and for hours at a time, you will need to invest something like $20K plus plus. If it is for the odd job (small) now and again you can pick up something fairly good for around $5000 -$8000. That's just the CNC. Then you will need tooling, excellent dust extraction and software.

    The trouble with the lets say cheap machines (remember I am coming from a professional stand point) they are just hobby toys that lack quite a lot. They may suit you right now but I can assure you over time you will wish you invested in something far more robust and stable. My 1phase 240Volt CNC has a 6KW (8 HP) motor that is fan cooled and never struggles to machine anything I want to do. The trouble with anything much smaller is that they are most of the time under maximum load and are simply just a router that has been built on to the machine. The router, mounting as well as the drive gear are very light. However having said this it may just be what you require and your requirements may not be as critical as mine. I regularly work 0.1mm for some clients (I machine custom components) so for me accuracy and consistency is very important.

    Do not skimp on cheap tooling, it really is a waste of time, solid carbide is the best. You need excellent dust extraction as the tooling stays sharper for longer and of course it is far better for your health.

    As far as software is concern I would recommend Cut2D or VCarve by Vectric. They both offer free downloads to try on your machine before you buy and are very easy to learn.

    I hope in some way this helps

    Kevin

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  3. #137
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    157

    Default

    In the software somewhere there should be a way to adjust the kerning (space between letters) If you look at the gap between the B and the l it looks too big. This is because the l is a narrow letter and the software sets a standard gap between letters. Hope this helps. (Retired engraver)

    Quote Originally Posted by Cal View Post
    Engraving sorted, using a 10 degree 2 flute 0.1mm tip 3.175 mm bit.


  4. #138
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
    Posts
    1,141

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Flintlock View Post
    In the software somewhere there should be a way to adjust the kerning (space between letters) If you look at the gap between the B and the l it looks too big. This is because the l is a narrow letter and the software sets a standard gap between letters. Hope this helps. (Retired engraver)
    Ahh yes you noticed! I knew it was too wide and I have a background in photoshop and illustrator, I should have seen it when I first created it. I imported the type face into fusion originally. I am playing with the font tool in Fusion now and it doesn’t let you adjust the kerning of individual letters. I will go back and have another go at the original font I created. Cheers!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #139
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Melb
    Posts
    1,542

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cal View Post
    Ahh yes you noticed! I knew it was too wide and I have a background in photoshop and illustrator, I should have seen it when I first created it. I imported the type face into fusion originally. I am playing with the font tool in Fusion now and it doesn’t let you adjust the kerning of individual letters. I will go back and have another go at the original font I created. Cheers!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The first several hundred are always the most troublesome!

    Or maybe that's just me and my impatience! ;-)

  6. #140
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
    Posts
    1,141

    Default

    Haha, yes indeed!!

  7. #141
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
    Posts
    1,141

    Default

    Still working on the harmonica combs.
    Here is a Redgum one, stabilised and sealed with shellac then food safe resin on top.



    And more in production.


  8. #142
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Melb
    Posts
    1,542

    Default

    Nice job Cal,

    How did you go stabilising the redgum? It's such a dense wood I wouldn't have thought resin would go into the cells?

  9. #143
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
    Posts
    1,141

    Default

    I’m not sure that a huge amount of juice made its way in to every nook and cranny in the Redgum, there was some small worm hole that definitely filled. I have more sitting on the CNC bed awaiting the chop, will see if there is any other signs of infusion once they are machined. The Blackwood, Sheoak and silky oak definitely took a lot. I didn’t stabilise the Huon due to its oil content, and it should be more than fine with a few coats of hard shellac anyway.

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