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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    central victoria
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    1

    Default cnc6040 damaged, bearing and ballnut questions

    Ordered and received an ebay cnc6040 two weeks ago. Y axis table had dings on opposite ends and was 30 mm out of square. After realigning and replacing bent capscrews saw that rear leadscrew ball bearing was damaged but loosening it allowed table to move. Have it running under Mach3 with X and Z running well,but Y axis loses steps and is very rough. Ordered new ball bearings and in taking old ones off noticed that whole gantry assembly can be twisted by hand force. Can twist gantry by .7 mm horizontally, a bit more vertically. Also leadscrew ends can move about 1 mm when held only by ballnut. Is this normal or does it mean the linear bearings and ballnut are cactus?. My background is in electronics, computers and renovation so precision mechanicals are new to me. Is there anyone within 150 km of Ballarat who has a cnc6040 running I could take a look at?. As expected seller has gone silent and given my experience with the router so far (holes not lining up,second hand pump, paint sprayed on bearings and leadscrews) i'm not confident replacement parts would even be identical to the original parts. Thanks. Herman

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  3. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Maryvale, Queensland
    Posts
    2,338

    Default

    30mm out! Ouch, that's bad.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  4. #93
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Oxley, Brisbane
    Age
    79
    Posts
    3,041

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snowyskiesau View Post
    Actual cutting area seems to be about 120mm less than this at about 380mm which is different that the claimed 'effective working travel' of 480mm

    This would of course depend on the diameter of your cutting tool.

    Bob Willson

  5. #94
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Maryvale, Queensland
    Posts
    2,338

    Default

    Well, my Walter6545 arrived last Friday, but due to other priorities, I only managed to open the controller box yesterday, and the other 2 main boxes this afternoon.

    So far, things are not going well. I've attached photos. When I opened the controller box, the connector for the water pump was half missing. Walter was on to that pretty quick and has offered to send a replacement.

    This afternoon is the big drama though. First box open was the gantry box. When I saw 2 of the styrofoam container inside smashed to pieces, I started to get worried. Sure enough, in that one, one of the plastic housings that go around the motors was broken in 2. That seemed to be all in that box though, which housed all of the other parts, including my rotational axis, but from what I can see, nothing else is broken. Whether anything is missing I won't know until tomorrow when i try to follow the assembly instructions on the web site (no manual supplied).

    Now that's not the worst of it. As you can see in the pictures, once I opened the table box, I couldn't believe it. First, an angle piece attached to one side of the table (which i'm not sure yet what it's there for) has had the corner bent up on it. Maybe I can hammer it back straight, but the other side I don't think a hammer will fix, as the actual corner of the table top is bent down, and I don't see how that can be fixed short of replacing the whole table.

    I've emailed the photo's to Walter to see what his response will be. I think I could have managed with all the issues apart from this one.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
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  6. #95
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

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    Hi Russell,

    While it is disappointing to have recieved it like it is from what I can see it can be repaired. The plastic block can be replaced easy enough but look at the shaft it was attached to to make sure the ballscrew end isn't bent.

    The angle trim on the side of the machine can be formed back to shape - wouldn't be surprised if it could be rolled back with your fingers - their steel is quite malleable. That is there (I think) to run a cable chain on. Hammering will chip the paint off but could be minimised by using a rubber mallet.

    The corner of the table actually looks like the whole front of the table has taken a whack going by ther indents in the other T slot sections. Check along the length of the table with a straight edge and if the damage is localised to the one corner then no big issue. You should be covering the table with a spoilboard so it shouldn't come into play unless there is more damage that is not shown.

    Disappointing but not a total loss.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  7. #96
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Maryvale, Queensland
    Posts
    2,338

    Default

    Thanks Rod. Any encouragement helps at this stage.

    I got a reply from Walter overnight saying "complain to the post office". Pretty poor response considering claims for damages from UPS must be initiated by the supplier. Ther also wasn't one piece of paperwork on or in the package, although there were plastic sleeves on the packages to hold paperwork, so no idea where it went.

    I also discovered that the power cable doesn't have an Australian plug, even though I asked that before I purchased it. Not a boggy I guess I can get an adaptor, or maybe I could just use an old PC power cable?

    More problematic is, that water pump connector replacement I am being sent, there's no actual cable to go from the connector to the water pump. It's a 2-pole connection with just bare metal lugs on the pump end. Doesn't look very waterproof to me either, so I'm not sure how that is all supposed to be finished off either.

    I've sent Walter a reply asking him to initiate a damages goods claim, so well see if that gets anywhere, but I'm doubtful at this stage. I'll checkout how bad the table damage is when it warms up enough to head out to the shed.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  8. #97
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    988

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    I've received a few packages myself where the styrofoam has reduced to nothing but little balls, poor packaging .

    For your waterpump connector if you need a replacement for the end I've got a ton of the 4 pin models here I can send you one if wanted and for the motor mount maybe go down to an industrial supply mob and ask if they have any sort of bonding agent for that type of plastic.

    If changing the plug make sure the unit is ready for the 220/240V, the PSU may have a 110/220V selector on it and if you got a US plug it may be set at 110VAC.

  9. #98
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Maryvale, Queensland
    Posts
    2,338

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ch4iS View Post
    I've received a few packages myself where the styrofoam has reduced to nothing but little balls, poor packaging .

    For your waterpump connector if you need a replacement for the end I've got a ton of the 4 pin models here I can send you one if wanted and for the motor mount maybe go down to an industrial supply mob and ask if they have any sort of bonding agent for that type of plastic.

    If changing the plug make sure the unit is ready for the 220/240V, the PSU may have a 110/220V selector on it and if you got a US plug it may be set at 110VAC.
    Thanks for the offer. From the looks of it though, I have plenty of 4-plug connectors, since the controller came with 3, but the machine already has those wired in. The water pump as I hope you can see in the picture is a 2-plug connector. I tried one of the 4-plugs in the socket on the controller, but it seems the 4-holes are aligned at 90 deg. offset to the 2-hole, I think.

    I realise my last post had a misunderstanding on the water pump. I was thinking the whole thing should have been submersible, but now I see the pump stays out of the water, and it's only the inlet and outlet pipes that are submerged. What's shown in the picture is all I have regarding the water pump (oh, plus a length of plastic tube), so there's no wire to go from the 2-hole connector to the 2 lugs on the pump. Is any set of 2 electrical wires sufficient, or would I need a specific cable of some kind? The label on the pump says it's DC 24V/1.2A.

    Oh, and as for the 120/240, not a thing on the controller box except the small symbol above the power socket which says to use a 250V fuse.

    Russell.
    Last edited by BoomerangInfo; 24th August 2011 at 03:18 PM. Reason: Oops, forgot the photo
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  10. #99
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
    Posts
    2,685

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    I was lucky with mine, same router but different supplier.
    It came in two boxes (no 4th axis) with all components wrapped in bubble wrap in between sheets of 25mm closed cell foam.. Some of the foam was compressed in places which might have resulted from impacts which would have broken styrofoam.

    As Rod said, that alloy angle piece is for the cable chain to run on, there should be one for the Y axis as well.

    It's frustrating not being able to use it but at least I've used the time to get to grips with Mach 3.
    I still have to track down a suitable aquarium pump as the pump supplied looks only marginally waterproof
    EDIT: I received a cable for the waterpump that came with a 2 pin plug.

  11. #100
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Maryvale, Queensland
    Posts
    2,338

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ch4iS View Post
    and for the motor mount maybe go down to an industrial supply mob and ask if they have any sort of bonding agent for that type of plastic.
    Oh I forgot to mention. I use medium CA on my pens, so I figured it might create a sufficient weld to hold the two halves together. I'm not sure how much stress those parts get in use, but even just with the screws pushed through the holes, before i glued it, the pieces seem to hold together OK, so I'm hoping the CA will be sufficient in case I can't get a replacement part.

    I bent down that corner on the angle piece, and it'll go down relatively flat. The other end looks a bit like a mouse has been nibbling at it as well, but if it's just a holder for the cables, I think it'll be OK. As for the table corner, it only seems to be that very corner bit that's bent. The rest of the table seems flat. At least that's what my builders square is telling me when I lay it across the table.

    So as several of you have said, annoying, but I may not be out of action yet, except for getting the pump wired up. I have work the next 2 days, so will probably be the weekend before I can start trying to assemble everything together. Just hope nothing else is missing.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  12. #101
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo View Post
    Oh, and as for the 120/240, not a thing on the controller box except the small symbol above the power socket which says to use a 250V fuse.
    Russell.
    The only 120/240 V switch I found is on the side of the power supply. You'll have to remove the top case of the controller to check/change it.

  13. #102
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

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    Russell,
    Good to hear that it can be fixed even though it is annoying that it was careless packaging that caused it. Keep trying with the seller on that basis as they need to be educated - threaten a paypal claim and that should pull them into gear stating it was not the transport but poor packaging that caused the problem. A paypal claim hits their account so they tend to listen when you tell them you are going to take that action.

    The corner of the table should be able to be levered up as there is a solid member underneath it. Even though it is cosmetic it is worth a try.
    Cheers,
    Rod

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