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Thread: Chris's First CNC Build
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3rd October 2008, 10:26 PM #46GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Chris
It is a planetary gearhead you are after. If you have a lathe or access to one then just make an idler shaft and mount between your motor and drive then fiddle with different pulleys.
Looks like you have a blunt router bit there. The burning is probably caused by too slow a feed but if this is the case then going by the surface finish you have a super blunt bit. I would be disappointed as well. The furry bits at the top is typical of an upcut router bit and these should sand off with a light touch. It is the edge finish that worries me.and am I seeing more than is there - hard to tell from the photo.Cheers,
Rod
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5th October 2008, 03:04 PM #47SENIOR MEMBER
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MS Motor said I could not install the gear box that they supply.
I got a bit impatient and cut and tacked some steel for the pulleys, kinda distorted the bearings but it freely spins so im not worried as its only a temporary fix till I get some proper bearings.
It was either to use a 30t or a 60t pulley and the 60t was a bit big so ill see how the 30t goes.
What ratio is that? I thought it was 2:1 (ie. 30t in 15t out) but it doesnt seem right as I would think 15t - 30t - 15t would be 2:1
Rod i dont have a lathe, would love one.
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5th October 2008, 04:40 PM #48GOLD MEMBER
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15 - 30 is 2:1 - 15 on motor
15 - 30/15 - 30 is 4:1 - double pulley in idler
and
15 - 30/30 -15 is 1:1
Send you a PM.Cheers,
Rod
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5th October 2008, 08:22 PM #49SENIOR MEMBER
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Some more pics.
Y axis should have a little more grunt.
Should be 2:1 ratio but im just confused.
Rod I originally came up with 1.5:1 ratio but it requires 3 turns of the motor (30teeth) and that in turn gives the 15t pulley 1 rotatio so im sure its just 2:1 but then again if the motor is 15t then it would be 2:1 so the ratio is somewhere in that region.
Around tuesday I should have the aluminium from bunnings, the new cutting bits, and after that all that is needed is to hook up the wiring, connect some limit switches (do you need limit switches?) and then adjust the tension of the belts on the X axis to be the correct length on each side as its slightly off.
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7th October 2008, 11:10 AM #50New Member
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sodftware driver
Blueray
I am new to this forum and I was a electronic eng. working in computer controlled machinery and robots in Europe. This is very impressive work and I admire such a job.
I have only one question what type of software will control the equipment. If you intend to write such a package yourself you have a bigger job ahead of you.
Sorry guy's I don't like to hijack a posting but I have seen people throwing the towel when approaching the software side.
Regards
Persil
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8th October 2008, 07:38 AM #51SENIOR MEMBER
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9th October 2008, 04:49 PM #52SENIOR MEMBER
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Just powered up the Y axis, getting over 35 turns so about a 2:1 ratio, It has quite a bit of grunt I was pushing against the Y axis (not too much as I didnt want anything to snap in 2 on me) It moves at a much better speed now.
Still awaiting router bits, should be in friday then I can start cutting.
I have gotten the difference to around .2mm (possible .1 but its just my estimate Its hard to tell as I am estimating from a shadow.) over the whole table the guys who welded up the table did a good job, so I will do as Greolt suggested and just plane a cheap sheet of MDF as with the design its a bit impossible to get 100% accuracy.
Now im just hoping the Z axis does not twist too much, so far it looks fine but I wont know till I start cutting. If it does ive got a plan to weld a higher slide so its cannot twist (was thinking about welding another 40x40 box on top of the current one which would make twisting impossible.)
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9th October 2008, 05:05 PM #53SENIOR MEMBER
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Pictures are good. Video is better.
Greg
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9th October 2008, 09:13 PM #54SENIOR MEMBER
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10th October 2008, 07:37 PM #55SENIOR MEMBER
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First time I power up the X axis since completing the Y and Z I do the stupid thing of not powering the router. I heard a tooth jump and it bent the Z axis the worst way possible just before clicking the emergency stop.
But other than that, see the pics. Sorry no Vid yet, gota learn how to use Cut 2D first as I was just moving the axis's semi-manually.
Got the Bits from sawandbits.com for $5.50 each, also grabbed some saw blades well worth it, duno about the router bits but I know the saw blades are expencive. Set me back ~$70 for 3x alu Blades, 3x Mild Steel blades, 5 router bits and a bunch of jigsaw blades.
Grabbed 2x 6.4 and 3x 3.2
From what I can see the router can easily cut the 16mm MDF in 2 passes, I wouldnt do it in 1 pass as the router isnt all that powerful.
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11th October 2008, 04:02 AM #56GOLD MEMBER
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Nice haul.
Another of the things you will learn is feeds and speeds and each of us do it a different way. Some prefer deep cuts and slow speeds while others go shallow feeds and faster speeds. There is no right and wrong way and the best way is determined by the resultant cut. Just don't go hogging deep into aluminum or you will have problems.
There are three factors you need to consider in feeds and speeds.
There is the rate of cut determined by your software - eg 600mm/min. If you are using Mach3 this can be adjusted on the fly.
The speed of your router - can be adjusted on the fly. As a general rule smaller bits require more speed and larger bits less speed. The surface finish and sound of the cutter while running will give you the clues to the right router speed.
The depth of each cut is determind by your software and cannot be adjusted on the fly. Be carefull not to set too deep a cut until you are sure the machine and router can handle it for the type of material you are cutting.
Hope that helps a little.Cheers,
Rod
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11th October 2008, 04:40 PM #57SENIOR MEMBER
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Rod can you use the Trial of Cut2D?
Ive been trying to work it out so far ive got the basics because of the video tutorial but I cannot save anything to import into Lazy CAM.
Do I need to buy Cut2D before I can actually use it?
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11th October 2008, 05:27 PM #58GOLD MEMBER
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I haven't used Cut2D but from memory VcarvePro trial did the same. You can use it but not save anything. I think they had a sample file that you could use to test your machine but that was it.
Cheers,
Rod
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11th October 2008, 10:21 PM #59Member
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Cut2D
Hello Blueray / Rod
From memory the Vectric products don't let you save any files you work on, not sure if you can even import them.
I went the whole hog last Christmas and bought the three, PhotoVcarve, Cut3d and Vcarvepro, up until then I had used Mach2 to generate the tap file, the three are really easy to use, for example, I have just finished a welding table and needed to move it from under a carport into the shed, couldn't use a engine hoist so used autocad to draw a " wheel " with a hole for the hub, imported ( why isn't that iNported ? ) it to VcarvePro, and cut six of them from 25mm MDF with a 10mm cutter in 70seconds each, 9mm cut, 2000mm / min, worked easily and well. I haven't used photoVcarve yet but have done some 3d machining using cut3d, I'm not a machinist by trade but the programs were easy to use.
If you only buy one, Id'e get the VcarvePro, it will import dxf's, if you would like me to generate a tap file for you PM me and we can arrange it.
Ed
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12th October 2008, 11:34 AM #60Member
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Cut File
Hello Boys ( any girls here yet??? )
I have had a couple of requests for a tap file, I will knock something up today and post later, Blueray has asked for a star of about 60mm in size, if no objections I'll do that, but I need to know several parameters first, what sort of depth material? if I don't here by say 5:00pm EDST I'll assume 10mm think, 6mm cutter with two passes of 5mm cut and a speed of 2000mm / min'.
Ed
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