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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Question die grinder cutters on wood?

    Hi All,
    I was at total tools today picking up a new makita N3701 1/4" trimming router. And asked the guy if I could see some of the ball end cutters behind the counter, he said they were no good for the router coz they need to run at 30,000 rpm. I pointed out that the router runs at 30,000 rpm, ohh but they are just for steel and alum.. so I shut up.. but scratched my head.. I'd spent enough for one day as it was..

    Soo is he right? Surely if they can cut steel then ply, mdf and pine would be like a hot knife through butter?
    Or am I limited to traditional router bits?

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  3. #2
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    moonbi nsw Aus
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    I can't see why you would have any trouble with the die grinder bits. I reckon they would be easier to use than router bits because you use a die grinder free hand.
    My Mechanic mate gave me a 2" disc, which should go onto a die grinder, to sand down stuff. He cleans cylinder head faces and engine block faces with it. So I put it in my Makita Trimmer and it works fine(just the same as using the die grinder) the only minor thing is that the router is bigger in diameter than the die grinder to grasp. I take off the sliding router base exposing the whirling collet chuck of the router.Just be careful
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  4. #3
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    May 2003
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    Perth WA
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    The die grinder bits do not have the same relief that a router bit has. They are made for removing small amounts of material at a time so do not expect them to perform like a router bit. They will work but you are only going to chew small bits of wood off and the finish may not be as good as a router cutter because it will not be able to clear the sawdust from the cutter effectively.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  5. #4
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    I don't know about a router but I use die grinder bits on hard wood in a lathe or a drill press at about 2-3000 rpm. They give a really nice controlled grind with a reasonably smooth finish, something like a constantly new 120=150 grit paper. I use them for wood, ally, brass and steel. including hardened steel.

  6. #5
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    I read NastySpill's post as he was intending to use these as an alternative to a router bit
    Quote
    Surely if they can cut steel then ply, mdf and pine would be like a hot knife through butter?
    End quote

    I can't see them performing as well as a router bit in wood or a mill bit in steel and alloys. The depth of the cutting tooth is way too shallow to compete with either of these purpose made cutters.

    As you say they are great for grinding and their intended use if for handheld tools for shaping and smooothing. The shallow tooth has much less chance of grabbing and throwing off the job and this gives the operator better control of the tool.

    On a CNC machine the spindle is fixed and rigid so a router bit or end mill is a far more appropriate cutter and is capable of either hogging out big cuts or fine finishing cuts with the one tool..
    Cheers,
    Rod

  7. #6
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodm View Post
    I read NastySpill's post as he was intending to use these as an alternative to a router bit
    ..
    OK - I can now see where you're coming from.

  8. #7
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    Aug 2009
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    Caversham WA
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    I would expect them to be more likely to burn the wood too, maybe not at 3000rpm but more likely at 30000rpm.

  9. #8
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    Thanks everyone. So yes this is specifically for a cnc, using a trimmer router. Not for hand held operations.

    Rodm I understand your logic of these cutters having limited relief. As always I'll have a play and see what I can break.. I have some round end cutters, and a rounded tip mutli die grinder tool - I'll see how they perform.. without hurting myself..

    Did anyone else see that poor girl in the paper a few weeks ago who was operating a cnc router in Bentleigh and the cutter exploded and hit her in the chest. She died. The manufacturer of the cutter bit was fined for not labeling a max rpm of the tool. It was being run in excess of its design.

    Thanks!

  10. #9
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    Thanks for the heads up on the safety of cutters. I have broken a few carbide cutters over the years but never thought they could kill you.
    I do have a habit of getting my head close to the area being cut to check on the quality of the machining. Obviously I need to stop doing that.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  11. #10
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    There are some die grinder bits with coarse flutes, intended more for aluminium than steel, and they work very well in timber. I have done a bit of internal carving using a ball-shaped one.
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

  12. #11
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    Hi Andy,
    I think we all agree that burrs make a very good freehand shaping tool.

    In the context of what was asked they do not make the ideal cutter for general CNC work or for that matter a router table. They do make course and fine die ginder bits but the relief depth is too small compared to a router bit to be of any use in cutting say a panel. Different tools for different jobs.

    I am rabbiting on this point but it is important to send the right message.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodm View Post
    Hi Andy,
    I think we all agree that burrs make a very good freehand shaping tool.

    In the context of what was asked they do not make the ideal cutter for general CNC work or for that matter a router table. They do make course and fine die ginder bits but the relief depth is too small compared to a router bit to be of any use in cutting say a panel. Different tools for different jobs.

    I am rabbiting on this point but it is important to send the right message.
    Fair call Rod! I have put one in a router once and wasn't overly taken with the output.

    Cheers
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

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