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Thread: CNC 2.0 - Knee mill
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21st December 2013, 04:46 AM #31
Hi Andrew,
The scheme that went through my mind when I was typing the last post, was to use the old fire extinguisher by putting the cutting oil in it and using the stirrup pump to pressurise the vessel and force the oil out of the bottom and into the injector. A 555 timer IC and a suitable mosfet can be set up to fire the injector at a regular interval.
Both time and duration could be controlled independently to adjust the quantity. I'll make a note about too much pressure. Cutting oil mist is not nice to breathe in.
Anyway many thanks for the offer of an injector !
I agree with you about postage costs, they are exorbitant. I believe that your postal rates are higher than ours. You may be aware that the post office here has just been privatised, so you can bet that prices will soon rise.
I'm on good terms with my local scrappy, so I know what he will say "What, take one off yourself !" and point me down the yard. I must admit I do get some nice bits and pieces from him from time to time.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
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22nd January 2014, 11:35 PM #32Chief Swarf Maker
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Well, wouldnt that you off. Luckily i caught the fire before it spread too far.
Ive temporarily put the 3hp, 3phase motor that came out of the machine back on, with a vfd (all borrowed off my lathe) so i can finish off porting my cylinder head.
Still deciding what to do longer term, but it sure as hell wont be getting another Chinese motor on it. Im so sick of Chinese crap.
Otherwise the machine has been running well and i bloody love it. i got the door back on the electrical cabinet and managed to run the mill on our recent 40+ degree days without any overheating issues (apart from operator overheating!). Im still stoked that i fit all the electronics in that little cabinet, it all looks very neat and has only 2 cables coming out (power & usb).
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22nd January 2014, 11:47 PM #33Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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23rd January 2014, 01:08 AM #34Chief Swarf Maker
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Hi joe the motor caught fire yesterday at about 8am, pretty sure i had a jumper on at the time. It certainly wasnt hot, and had been a few days since the heat, in which time the machine had been running fine.
It was merrily porting away (light load, long duration program) on Monday night, at about 2am it started bleching smoke so i killed it and went to bed. Again it wasnt a hot night at all, and the motor wasnt working hard enough that it should have gotten hot from being overworked. It probably removed less than a cubic inch of ally over 2 hours.
Next morning when i applied power, all the lightning escaped from inside, followed by flames a few minutes later.
The previous motor i got from the same company had to be replaced due to it being smokey as well (this is back in winter time) and the replacement always had a funny noise to it. I kind of expected it to die, but maybe not so spectacularly.
Im pretty certain this had nothing to do with the recent heat, more likely the stupid motor overheated due to its inherent Chineseness. Wrapping the capacitors in foam and using a non-fire retardant plastic for the terminal box wouldnt have been my first choice either...
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23rd January 2014, 05:12 PM #35
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24th January 2014, 12:09 AM #36Chief Swarf Maker
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It was on a dedicated motor circuit so no RCD. They dont like the large startup current. There is a breaker on the circuit, i was surprised it didnt trip. But i did kill the power pretty quick once the sparks started (not quick enough apparently, both solid state relays are dead)
The old 3 phase motor and vfd are going strong, i think it has been running since about 7pm and it's now midnight and no signs of smoke or horrible smell. Think i might stick with the vfd path, but maybe one a bit bigger and another motor to suit.
I did a full oil change on the gearbox today and cleaned it all out with petrol and rags, i also levelled the machine which is much nicer than having a Leaning Tower of CNC. Both of these jobs were meant to be done ages ago!
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18th February 2014, 02:06 AM #37Intermediate Member
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Hello Andrew,
I have the same Victoria Mill.
I am quite impressed with your upgrades.
I bought a bunch of milling heads from china last year and Unlike your elec motor capacitor its good quality.
PM me if you are interested.
I have a question. I had not used the old machine for some time ans when I started it up there was no oil flow from the drip feed window.
the oil level was low so I put some 85-140 gear oil into it. It was too heavy and the pump loses its prime.
What grade of oil did you use?
regards Whitworth
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20th February 2014, 03:29 PM #38Chief Swarf Maker
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- Melbourne
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Hi Whitworth
I had my oil guys ring the Shell technical line to see what the replacement was for Vitrea 37. They came up with "Omala S2 G 68" which is essentiallly a straight 68 weight gear oil.
Prior to the oil change, the level was a little low and occasionally no oil would be present at the drip window. I no longer have the powerfeed parts inside the gearbox (which sit quite low) so i was able to raise the oil level by a couple of inches. This coupled with the new oil means i now have FAR more oil at the drip feed window, and all the time.
You may be able to replicate this by lowering the pickup, i found it was originally sitting right on the oil line at "full"
While it was all apart i also tightened re-aimed all the squirters, and had them aimed for maximum flow over the higher speed gears where i use the machine.
Another thing i did to accommodate for the higher speeds was to bring an oil supply up to the the spindle. You can see here where i run a rubber hose out of the gearbox which is connected to an oil squirter, it goes into a fitting which was originally a grease nipple. I cleaned all the grease out (not a nice job) and now have oil flow over the helical gearset inside and also the top 2 taper roller bearings via the T piece.
The oil is mainly collected in the casting, where i drilled and tapped for a drain which goes back to the original gearbox fill point. A small amount of oil will make its way between the casting and the quill to keep this lubricated, which is total loss, er i mean rust prevention. In use bugger all oil makes its way past here due to the tight clearance anyway.
The bearing packs inside the quill itself are still greased as they are part of a separate system and there was no easy way to bring oil upto them.
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22nd February 2014, 03:03 PM #39Intermediate Member
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- Aug 2008
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- Western Australia
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- 35
Victoria MK1 Mill
A few images of my Victoria Mk1 in action and my NT 40 Milling tools
IMG_7455_1.JPG
Machining component from 20mm plate
IMG_7462_1.JPG
Close up of the two Chinese milling heads
IMG_7461_1.JPG
My entire milling cutter collection in order of purchase
IMG_7460_1.JPG
A specialty Swarf removal tool
IMG_7458_1.JPG
Fabricated from sheet metal purlin
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22nd February 2014, 03:09 PM #40Intermediate Member
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- Aug 2008
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- Western Australia
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- 35
Thanks Andrew,
For the information I put 85/140 the same oil as my truck diff and my Coldsaw gearbox.
I forgot about the the pumps capacity to pump that viscosity.
The pump works OK for a short while then slows down considerably.
Do I take off the plate that holds the gear change levers to access the Oil pump and check the nozzles?
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