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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    1,610

    Default My first CNC effort

    Let's all forget about the Lego man for a second, OK

    I recently completed what's probably the world's most expensive chlorine drum spanner...
    why buy one for $9 at the local pool shop, when you can buy a mill ($$$), convert it to CNC (more $$$), learn a couple of new pieces of software, drool over cutters and coolants and collets, etc. etc.

    I'm going to shamelessly steal Woodlake's quote:

    "I know it's only small, but it represents the end of a pretty intensive learning curve for me!"

    Cheers,
    Andrew

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    Hi Andrew,
    I made a similar spanner to remove the top off a salt water pool filter. The door has been opened with your machine and you will find lots of opportunities to make different things.
    OK can we go back to leggo men now.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NOWRA
    Posts
    648

    Default

    Ah, but when the manufacturer changes the lid style, you'll be able to machine another quickly and easily now you have it all working, those fools who just bought the spanner will have to make the trip and buy another one.....lol.

    Keep up the good work,
    Daniel

  5. #49
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Great job Andrew. Well done

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    1,610

    Default Two more off the mill

    Another couple of beginner's learning pieces:

    The rat ramp was to try a canned drilling cycle and array copying in CamBam.

    The screen door protector was to try out holding tabs so the piece doesn't get destroyed in the last fraction of a second as it's cut free.

    I also managed both in the one afternoon, so the various bits of the process are starting to click in to place.

    Cheers,
    Andrew

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Melbourne - Mexico
    Posts
    655

    Default

    Arose, great work.

    Q. When you cut the acrylic, did you get build up of swarf on the part? If not, how fast did you run the machine, type of bit and depth of cut and speed of cutter. I cut some acrylic the other day and had to score the plastic off the edge with. Steel ruler.

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    1,610

    Default

    I used a 3mm router bit from a cheap-n-nasty set of 12 bought years ago and never used.

    Spindle speed was "about halfway on the high speed setting" on the X3 (1000 rpm ??), and feed was 800mm/min. DOC was 0.4 mm.

    No build-up on the bit, but I don't know exactly what type of plastic it was - it was rescued from a council cleanup.

    Cheers,
    Andrew

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Melbourne - Mexico
    Posts
    655

    Default

    Thanks, good to have reference speeds and feeds.

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    988

    Default

    Did my first enclosure, the aluminium used for the enclosure is the softest I have ever machined, slow speeds and flooding the workpiece was the only way to machine it.

  11. #55
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    Nice work. Yeah some ally just galls up especially with small cutters - offset on the initial cut then full depth finishing cuts is sometimes easier than trying to clean it up. Looks like you have got this one alright anyway.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Darwin HowardSprings
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1,197

    Default Cogs

    i decided to make a clock ( rodm's idea )
    2mm wide 2 flute HSS endmill , 0.2mm depth per pass ,40mm/min speed with a flat out 18,000rmp , on 3mm aluminium sheet,ive only broken 3 bits so far , the speed is slow ,but at 2x the bit breaks

    i found synthetic oil good for cutting aluminium, it really gets drawn to the bit , no extraction , the aluminium powered/ oil mix just ends up on the sides of the cut

    bugger all welding of waste to the sides of the cut , but a fair bit of harmonic marking from the long (20mm) bit flexing

    i have already ran a file over the edges to clean them up
    how come a 10mm peg dont fit in a 10mm hole

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Cheltenham, Melbourne
    Age
    74
    Posts
    2,224

    Default

    They are surely things of beauty.

    What was your cut time? and what clock are you building. A clock is one of the first things I want to build on Bitser.
    Chris
    ========================================

    Life isn't always fair

    ....................but it's better than the alternative.

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Darwin HowardSprings
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1,197

    Default

    yer slow , 4 1/2 hours each for the big cogs , im posting on the CLOCK wall as well , and have posted all the free plans that i found looking for the the plans im using
    how come a 10mm peg dont fit in a 10mm hole

  15. #59
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    SawDustSniffer a bit of polish and you will need sunglasses to look at the time
    vapourforge.com

  16. #60
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Gosford,NSW
    Posts
    135

    Default

    SawDustSniffer do you run any air while cutting? I've not used 2mm bits yet but would suggest that if your snapping bits its because your not keeping the cut clean of swarf.

    With my setup I have a light air flow to clear the area using a flexible nozzle mounted to the Z axis. I then spray the cut with either wd40 or diesel (had some spare but it does smell/smoke a bit more than WD40) kero is also good and what is usually used I'm told. You don't need much as its not there to flood the area just to stop the bit galling up. With 6mm bits I tended to go at around 12000rpm and 800mm/min with a 0.5 DOC

    I high helix single flute would be my choice in the sub 6mm sizes and you can get cheap ones from McJing as this would clear the area better. Only get a cutter with the DOC that you need as shorter is stiffer and try and get the largest shank size.

    Slower is also not always better as it can lead to rubbing and work hardening of the Al and then galling gets worse. Also climb mill.

    The minimum radius of your cut should define your bit size so on most of those cogs in the pic you could use a much bigger size (depending on scale... how small are they?) Or you could rough out with say a 6mm and then go back for a final fukk depth cut with the 2mm. Ie don't try and cut a 3mm radius with a 6mm cutter as it loads it up too much in the corners.. been there done that

    Milage may vary and I'm no expert but thats what has worked for me so far.

    Cheers

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