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Thread: Some More CNC Projects
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25th January 2012, 10:15 AM #46GOLD MEMBER
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My first CNC effort
Let's all forget about the Lego man for a second, OK
I recently completed what's probably the world's most expensive chlorine drum spanner...
why buy one for $9 at the local pool shop, when you can buy a mill ($$$), convert it to CNC (more $$$), learn a couple of new pieces of software, drool over cutters and coolants and collets, etc. etc.
I'm going to shamelessly steal Woodlake's quote:
"I know it's only small, but it represents the end of a pretty intensive learning curve for me!"
Cheers,
Andrew
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25th January 2012 10:15 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th January 2012, 02:18 PM #47GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Andrew,
I made a similar spanner to remove the top off a salt water pool filter. The door has been opened with your machine and you will find lots of opportunities to make different things.
OK can we go back to leggo men now.Cheers,
Rod
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25th January 2012, 05:15 PM #48SENIOR MEMBER
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Ah, but when the manufacturer changes the lid style, you'll be able to machine another quickly and easily now you have it all working, those fools who just bought the spanner will have to make the trip and buy another one.....lol.
Keep up the good work,
Daniel
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28th January 2012, 09:19 PM #49Intermediate Member
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Great job Andrew. Well done
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6th February 2012, 08:43 AM #50GOLD MEMBER
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Two more off the mill
Another couple of beginner's learning pieces:
The rat ramp was to try a canned drilling cycle and array copying in CamBam.
The screen door protector was to try out holding tabs so the piece doesn't get destroyed in the last fraction of a second as it's cut free.
I also managed both in the one afternoon, so the various bits of the process are starting to click in to place.
Cheers,
Andrew
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7th February 2012, 08:41 AM #51
Arose, great work.
Q. When you cut the acrylic, did you get build up of swarf on the part? If not, how fast did you run the machine, type of bit and depth of cut and speed of cutter. I cut some acrylic the other day and had to score the plastic off the edge with. Steel ruler.
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9th February 2012, 12:09 AM #52GOLD MEMBER
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I used a 3mm router bit from a cheap-n-nasty set of 12 bought years ago and never used.
Spindle speed was "about halfway on the high speed setting" on the X3 (1000 rpm ??), and feed was 800mm/min. DOC was 0.4 mm.
No build-up on the bit, but I don't know exactly what type of plastic it was - it was rescued from a council cleanup.
Cheers,
Andrew
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9th February 2012, 08:26 AM #53
Thanks, good to have reference speeds and feeds.
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3rd March 2012, 06:06 PM #54SENIOR MEMBER
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Did my first enclosure, the aluminium used for the enclosure is the softest I have ever machined, slow speeds and flooding the workpiece was the only way to machine it.
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3rd March 2012, 09:03 PM #55GOLD MEMBER
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Nice work. Yeah some ally just galls up especially with small cutters - offset on the initial cut then full depth finishing cuts is sometimes easier than trying to clean it up. Looks like you have got this one alright anyway.
Cheers,
Rod
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11th March 2012, 02:01 PM #56
Cogs
i decided to make a clock ( rodm's idea )
2mm wide 2 flute HSS endmill , 0.2mm depth per pass ,40mm/min speed with a flat out 18,000rmp , on 3mm aluminium sheet,ive only broken 3 bits so far , the speed is slow ,but at 2x the bit breaks
i found synthetic oil good for cutting aluminium, it really gets drawn to the bit , no extraction , the aluminium powered/ oil mix just ends up on the sides of the cut
bugger all welding of waste to the sides of the cut , but a fair bit of harmonic marking from the long (20mm) bit flexing
i have already ran a file over the edges to clean them uphow come a 10mm peg dont fit in a 10mm hole
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11th March 2012, 02:33 PM #57
They are surely things of beauty.
What was your cut time? and what clock are you building. A clock is one of the first things I want to build on Bitser.Chris
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Life isn't always fair
....................but it's better than the alternative.
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11th March 2012, 02:50 PM #58
yer slow , 4 1/2 hours each for the big cogs , im posting on the CLOCK wall as well , and have posted all the free plans that i found looking for the the plans im using
how come a 10mm peg dont fit in a 10mm hole
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11th March 2012, 03:30 PM #59
SawDustSniffer a bit of polish and you will need sunglasses to look at the time
vapourforge.com
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11th March 2012, 07:58 PM #60Senior Member
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SawDustSniffer do you run any air while cutting? I've not used 2mm bits yet but would suggest that if your snapping bits its because your not keeping the cut clean of swarf.
With my setup I have a light air flow to clear the area using a flexible nozzle mounted to the Z axis. I then spray the cut with either wd40 or diesel (had some spare but it does smell/smoke a bit more than WD40) kero is also good and what is usually used I'm told. You don't need much as its not there to flood the area just to stop the bit galling up. With 6mm bits I tended to go at around 12000rpm and 800mm/min with a 0.5 DOC
I high helix single flute would be my choice in the sub 6mm sizes and you can get cheap ones from McJing as this would clear the area better. Only get a cutter with the DOC that you need as shorter is stiffer and try and get the largest shank size.
Slower is also not always better as it can lead to rubbing and work hardening of the Al and then galling gets worse. Also climb mill.
The minimum radius of your cut should define your bit size so on most of those cogs in the pic you could use a much bigger size (depending on scale... how small are they?) Or you could rough out with say a 6mm and then go back for a final fukk depth cut with the 2mm. Ie don't try and cut a 3mm radius with a 6mm cutter as it loads it up too much in the corners.. been there done that
Milage may vary and I'm no expert but thats what has worked for me so far.
Cheers
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