Thread: Some More CNC Projects

Originally Posted by Bob Willson

I would think that the easiest way to get a consistent centre is to use a fixed corner stop so that the piece you are machining can be just fitted back to exactly the same position it was in before.

In other words, put a strip of something on the Y axis at 0,0 that is fixed to the table and do the same for the X axis so that you have a 'L' shaped fixture on the board.

but if your material size isn't exact , you run into problems when flipping , i plan on cutting the material to size with a hand held power saw , ( within 1 mm ) but not accurate

Cut it out on the CNC before you flip it then

Any fonts should be easily handled if the vectors are clean enough and the setting are set properly. Look forward to seeing the results.

On a side note for future reference, try starting a new thread for your projects and questions. This thread is for showing off finished projects.

Hi
Just finished making some small polished bronze, brass and graphite part sets for a customer and then had to have away of shipping them.
So I had some 16mm plastic board a bit of clear acrylic laying around and this is what I came up with, For scale the small brass wire is 0.5mm diameter as is the small hole in the graphite
There where just waiting for the bronze and brass parts to come back from being gold plated and then I can fill them up and ship them.

Russell

Well that should impress your customers.

Yes Bob, there where very impressed there told me the paying the invoice straight away
Russell

This project was for a fellow forum member and his wooden clock. He need a strong but good looking bracket to take the weight of the clock weights about 11kg. It will hold the axle for some pulley wheels. After the design went back and forth a few time this is what we came up with.
I had a great time helping out on this one. His clock look great and he has put many hours of hard work into it.

The first two attachments are renders from CAD the last two are the parts.

Russell

Now that looks impressive. How do you get the polished finish and what software did you use for the item?

Bob I use rhino with rhinocam.
To polish them I used two stages with the bench grinder with mops course and fine, then a quick hand rub with a metal polish cream and the photos came out exceptionally good

Well I am totally jealous of the expertise you show here. They are beautifully designed, made and finished.

Whilst changing blades on my Delta Saw table a couple of weeks ago I dropped the diecast alloy throat plate on the concrete floor and I was surprised when it shattered. So, I had to set about making a replacement before I could use the saw again and came up with a simple timber replacement which worked fairly well, giving zero clearance around the blade.

However, I just recently bought a dado set as well and baulked at the idea of making a new zero clearance throat plate for each size of dado I might want to cut.

So, I decided to make an aluminium plate with timber inserts which could be changed to suit the blade or dado size being used. It would give me a zero clearance insert for every occasion. I got the idea from looking at some videos on Youtube and the New Yankee Workshop.

I came up with an Aluminium plate which has a 6mm deep recess machined in the top to take the MDF inserts and a large enough hole beneath which would be capable of accepting just about any type of blade. It was machined from 10mm ally and fitted with grub screws to level it with the saw table top.

I also machined up ten of the MDF inserts from 6mm MDF so that when I change blades, I only have to change the insert, not the whole throat plate.

As each insert is used I'll store it away for when I use the same blade again or for the same size dado.

I need to come up with some sort of splitter/riving knife for when I want to rip timber, but I haven't worked that one out yet. Any suggestions?

Anyway, I've attached some pics for you.

Cheers Geoff

Hi Geoff,
Brilliant
Really good to see you using your machine for practical purposes. I have seen splitters made by glueing a strip in the base. I am fairly sure Norm has a video of it.

Geoff
Very professional, better then a shop bought one It does what you want.

Russell

Originally Posted by mhasting2004

Hi guys

As the other thread has been closed for some reason here's some pics of my first attempt at my version of photo v-carve

What software are using to get the curved lines? They look amazing! Cheers, Benno