Thread: CNC Router (Work in Progress)

Rosethorn
Thanks for the link

Rod,
I have enjoyed reading of your progress so far - looks far better than a "store bought" one and reads and looks like it should perform extremely well. As you say you are enjoying the journey - what is the ultimate purpose of the CNC router and any idea as to what it has cost so far?
Regards,
Bob

CNC... ok for those brain dumbs like me what does CNC stand for and why do these appear to be held in such esteem .... Tonto

CNC = Computer(ised) Numerical Control. In other words, a device that is computer controlled, working to a specific program overlay (e.g. a pattern design), to control a cutter (e.g. router) to make, with a high degree of precision, a part.

Often used industrially to repetitively manufacture identical and very accurate items. For woodworking, this is about as far from the darkside as it's possible to get:eek: But if there is a need to make a large number of identical parts, it's a very good way to go. As well, the "pattern" is just a set of parameters (the overlay referred to above), so can be altered slightly or completely, as required, with minimal skill requirements.

Cheers!

Bob
Thanks for the comments. The cost is mounting but fortunately is has been spread over a reasonable period so I haven't felt it too much.
Motors, driver board and transformer - $600 (ex USA)
Steel - $200
Aluminum - $400
Hardware - $50
Paint - $30
Bearings - $40
Acme thread and nuts - $160 (ouch, but allthread could be used for $20)
Computer - Zero as I had an old one suitable
Software - Free (TurboCNC)
Electrics - Zero as I had an E switch, wire and plugs.

The prices above should not put anybody off having a go as you can build an MDF style CNC router with salvaged printer motors, allthread and skateboard bearings for under $500. The people who have made these routers claim accuracy of 1 thousanth of an inch or better. There are a few people on this board who have made MDF CNC routers and another who has partly done one with steel cabinet slides. I will find an example of a good MDF unit and post a photo here.

I thought this thread might have been a bit out of topic for the woodwork forum but I have been contacted privately by quite a few people who are either making a CNC router or want to start.

From another forum I have had an invitation to a group of four CNC'ers in Perth who have already completed CNCing their lathes and are in the process of making a prefabricated steel CNC router. It is like one of those balsa models where this tab goes in this slot, etc. It can be welded but Loctite 300 is good enough to hold it together. It looks great and I will report back here on the design after I have met up with them.

I have made quite a bit of progress today so I will update the pictures soon.

Here is a photo of a well made MDF CNC router. You can read the full build log on this link
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...9&page=1&pp=15

I finished the framework for the cutting table. 50mm by 3mm ali angle in a sort of torson box design. MDF will cover the table and threaded inserts used for hold down clamps

Hi Rod
Thanks for your posts. You a doing a marvelous job and I have been following your progress with great interest. Is the aluminium frame joined with aluminium strips bent at right angles and then screwed through to the frame pieces. I like the idea of threaded inserts, might use that idea on my assembly table.
Please keep us up to date as you progress.
Cheers
Ray

Hi Ray
The pieces are joined with strips of 30 by 25 angle cut to 50mm lengths. 3/16 pop rivets throughout and 3/16 screws on the front rail only. Those 3/16 rivets take some force to close and Uncle Arthur flaired up a bit last night.
The screws along the front rail are so it can be removed to fit between the gantry during assembly. I am varnishing the MDF (3 coats both sides) to try and stabilise the MDF a bit.
The ali angle I had was not a perfect 90 degrees so it was built with lots of straight edges and clamps to keep the top face flat. The result is that the angle is slightly kicked on the vertical. Not that obvious unless you know about it but it is worth mentioning if anyone follows this design.

Still ticking along and learning heaps. I have very kindly been given acme thread and delrin nuts so a slight change of plans. I finished the table and will mount it next. I worked on the lathe and mill all day making the bearing mounts for the X axis and motor mounts. The shoulder on the bearing holder is to locate it in the frame to help allign the motor to the axis. Photos should show you how it goes together.
Here are the results.

Thanks for the post - LOVE IT
Doing a great job
Cheers
Ray

Originally Posted by rodm

There is a fellow in America that makes Delrin anti-backlash nuts for $US15 and they look very good for the dollars.
Here is his site
http://gonebowlin.com/dumpsterCNC/

Thanks for this reference, will get some of these and some ACME rod from http://www.mcmaster.com/

Also the next machine will use these bearings:

http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan...tegory_Code=LM

Bennylaird
I will be using the same linear slides on the Y axis so I will be able to give you some feedback on them. As these are only supported on the ends the experts tell me that don't go for the small diameter. Mine are 20mm and second hand and will span 700mm but I have no idea if this is sized right.

Look fwd to your feedback. I was thinking the 20mm as well but want to use them on X and Y. 60" (1500mm) on the X and 30" on the Y.

My first attempt will be the roller blade on pipe system.