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  1. #91
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Perth WA
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    Triden,
    Attached is the brain for the new switch in the console above - cont, step then 3 step increments.
    Just attach the Pokeys switch to OEM triggers 4 to 8 in Mach3 as the interface. All this is covered in earlier posts but ask questions if not clear.
    This would be a good setup for Joysticks as well allowing continuous and step modes for each axes.
    Cheers,
    Rod

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  3. #92
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    87

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    Quote Originally Posted by rodm View Post
    Triden,
    Attached is the brain for the new switch in the console above - cont, step then 3 step increments.
    Just attach the Pokeys switch to OEM triggers 4 to 8 in Mach3 as the interface. All this is covered in earlier posts but ask questions if not clear.
    This would be a good setup for Joysticks as well allowing continuous and step modes for each axes.
    Thank you very much Rod.

    I recently received my rails and ballscrews from Chai so i will be redoing my X and Z Carrages. My origional machine is made from 3/4 ply and MDF so after driving the cutting tools into the table top to many times to count ( getting touch plates and Z zeroing setup) its geting a bit sloppy so its time to strengthen things up.
    Once i get them set up i will make a new table and Y axis (Y is my long axis) I would like to try rack and pinion such as Zoots build.

    If any one has missed it Big-Tex has a great thread Here about tool zeroing. After converting to metric and a few more tools into the table and a few more tweaks i have been runnining it for a couple of weeks without a hitch.
    I seem to be having more fun twiddling and tweaking than actually routing anything.
    This has got to be my longest post
    Thanks again
    Cheers
    Denis

  4. #93
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

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    Hi Denis,
    Greolt did the original post on the touchplate and it is now quite long but it has lots of happy customers. I would say the touchplate is a must as it does two things - zeros the tool but more important it sets the machine co-ordinate (DRO) which is the biggest cause of oooopies.

    Tweaking CNC machines is addictive and I enjoy the challenge of making them work as well.


    Just watched the video and it has a lot more features that the original touchplate. I am already thinking of ways to implement it on my machines. Thanks for the link.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  5. #94
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA (Ellenbrook)
    Age
    72
    Posts
    430

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    I have made a start on a console for my machine and have put together a front panel which I think should provide all the facilities I'll need. It's based on the console that Rod mocked up (post 73) when he was writing this tutorial, although it looks a lot different and uses a joystick instead of switches for the X & Y axes.

    I've yet to make some sort of enclosure for it and trim the panel. I didn't cut it out completely on the CNC as I had a bit of a drama, and hit the stop button. I didn't want to play around trying to restart it and decided to finish it off on the bandsaw.

    I haven't begun to wire anything up yet, and setting up the Pokeys will be a bit of a challenge too, but I'll get there slowly.

    Thanks Rod for a great thread.

    Please excuse the droplets of rain on the panel. I forgot to wipe them off before taking the pictures.

    Cheers
    Geoff

  6. #95
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

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    Hi Geoff,
    Good to see another console happening. At least all my ramblings are being put to use.

    You must have got a good piece of ally as I never get the engraving to be as crisp as yours. Did you use the three flute 60 degree V bit from Whytside? Dry or WD40/CRC?

    My turn to ask questions.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  7. #96
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA (Ellenbrook)
    Age
    72
    Posts
    430

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    Hi Rod

    I used the Whiteside cutter with no lube. I don't think it needs it if you're cutting very shallow.

    I used WD40 though when cutting out the holes, etc.

    It was actually a fairly rough piece of ally which I ran the orbital sander over to get rid of the scratches. After doing the engraving, I used some 320grit emery cloth to get rid of the sander marks and it came up like brushed ally. I might put a clear coat over it to try and keep it nice.

    Cheers
    Geoff

  8. #97
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA (Ellenbrook)
    Age
    72
    Posts
    430

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    Been busy with other things lately, but got back to my console today. Bent up a bit of a tray to mount it in and made some sides for it out of MDF. Very simple, but it works for me.

    I've decided to depart from what seems to be the convention and actually make my console portable rather than mount it on the router. It'll have a 2 metre USB cable attached to it, and that's all. The idea is so that I can use it anywhere around my router, sort of like a pendant, only a bit bigger. My monitor will be mounted on the machine along with a small keyboard and trackball for those operations which can't be done from the console.

    I'm hoping to get it wired up and operational over the weekend, and I'll report back as things progress.

    Cheers
    Geoff

  9. #98
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

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    Came up a treat Geoff.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  10. #99
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA (Ellenbrook)
    Age
    72
    Posts
    430

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    Thanks Rod

    I haven't started wiring it up yet. Too many other jobs in the way.

    Any way I stuffed it up and have to build another tray for it. When I was planning it and put it together, I didn't have the microswitches attached to the up/down arrow switches. I forgot to account for the extra depth and they won't fit.

    So, back to the drawing board and try again.

    Cheers

  11. #100
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
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    Hi Geoff,
    I got caught the same way. Ended up having to flip the front panel but got away with it.

    This is more for my reference but it might help somebody. I have been looking for a way to adjust the jog rate. Sometimes with the laser crosshair it is handy to drop the jog rate down to creep up to a corner. This is more frexible than going to step mode. I figured a potentiometer would be the best solution otherwise it would take lots of switches to get a decent range. Typically this doesn't come easy to me and while the solution was easy it has taken me a couple of attempts to get it right.

    Anyway for future reference the brain is attached. I have put a pot through the Pokeys and divided the input by 10 to give a 0 to 100% range. DRO3 - Jog% links the pot to Mach3 control for that feature. No need for screen modification as it works with the standard screen Jog Rate.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  12. #101
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Well this thread works for me. I followed it to make a new console (see photos) and it worked.
    Thanks Rod glad you posted this so I could build another console. Now where did I put my medication.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  13. #102
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
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    The last post must have happened after having a few burbs - sorry about that but it looks like I was enjoying myself.

    OK another console with a Pokeys and a second hand touchscreen - hense no mouse. This was built for a mate who is building a fairly large machine.
    Similar to the other consoles I made and using the Arcade buttons with labels inserted in the lens of the switch.

    Nicely sized keyboard which is tilted back to make it easier to see the keys with pots for Feed Rate, Spindle Speed and Jog rate. The computer can be switched on/off through a button on the console and a USB port fitted to the side of the box and cross flow fan ventilation to help keep it cool. Having all the computer bits on the console means the computer can be sealed inside the machine.

    Case is folded from galvo sheet and there is a piece of 4mm ally fixed in the back of the box to help strengthen where the monitor arm mounts. The facia is ally plate covered in Gravograph engraving material. See previous posts for details on that. The plug at the back where the cables exit is made in two halves and recessed into the box 10mm to hold it together.

    The swiveling arm was found in a recycle centre and had for the pricely sum of $10. I milled off the desk mount so it can be attached to a post on the machine. It is quite robust and has a tilt feature that lets the console lay back which makes viewing the screen easier.

    Photos show it jury rigged to test it all out. Apologies for the poor photography - it's the cameras fault.

    The only thing I am not happy about is the mounting screws on the facia and I am looking at getting some acrylic vacuum formed to make the next console. This will make it easier to do the cutouts and it can be engraved at the same time.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  14. #103
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Emerald (QLD)
    Posts
    106

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    Fantastic thread Rod you have also inspired me. I was going to buy a pendant early this year, but I think now I will build a console and perhaps a pendant as well.
    I have been using an analogue USB joystick for jogging but can only do two axes at a time. I do like being able to vary the speed though.
    Is it possible to configure the 12 or so buttons on this joystick to Mach buttons using MachScreen or Screen4? I have asked about this several times on the Mach forum with no joy
    Thanks,

    Tim.
    Simple solutions are only simple in hindsight.
    See my rig here- https://www.woodworkforums.com/f170/my-junkbot-123715/

  15. #104
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Youi have a couple of options for a pendant.

    Open Keygrabber in the Mach3 directory and press your buttons on your joystick to see what code is generated. From there modify a screenset for your functions to be activated by the same key. There is the one joystick control in mach3 which is the one Art did years ago.

    Get an Xbox 360 Wireless Controller for Windows - very important to get the Windows versions otherwise they don't work. This has a plugin that lets you assign different functions to the buttons. You can operate two axes at a time. The joysticks can vary the speed depending on how far over you push them.

    Get one of the Homann cases and a Modio and build your own pendant. He has all the bits and some good guidlines to follow. You could also build a Pokeys pendant along the same lines. Pendants seem to have an MPG for controlling the axes but I am working on a side project with some small PCB mounted Joysticks into a pendant.

    Of course you could just buy a ready made pendant.

    A console is for me far better than a pendant. It has the screen built in and you can do all the functions more easily. On my machines I build a console but have the Xbox controller to position the machine if the starting point is critical and I have to move away from the console to see what is happening. I consider both are needed to operate a machine with ease.

    Glad you enjoyed the thread and hopefully you will get something out of it.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  16. #105
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    988

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thunknker View Post
    I have been using an analogue USB joystick for jogging but can only do two axes at a time. I do like being able to vary the speed though.
    Does the joystick also have a rotating axis? meaning you can control all 3 axis from the one joystick with one hand.

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