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Thread: G540 & CNC Build
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19th August 2010, 01:16 AM #76
NEW AIR-COOL MOTOR SPINDLE 1.5KW AND MATCHING INVERTER
Has anyone purchased from these suppliers??
NEW AIR-COOLE MOTOR SPINDLE 1.5KW AND MATCHING INVERTER - eBay Drives Motion Control, Industrial Automation, Control, Electrical Test Equipment, Business Industrial. (end time 10-Sep-10 23:02:08 AEST)
Or
NEW AIR-COOLE MOTOR SPINDLE 1.5KW AND MATCHING INVERTER - eBay Drives Motion Control, Industrial Automation, Control, Electrical Test Equipment, Business Industrial. (end time 28-Aug-10 01:05:30 AEST)
They're both the same price. But what was the packaging like? Everything delivered not broken in working order?
Brad.
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19th August 2010, 02:08 AM #77GOLD MEMBER
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I have got three spindles and VFD from Love-happyshopping and been impressed with the quick delivery and packaging.
I haven't dealt with the other supplier so can't comment on them.Cheers,
Rod
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19th August 2010, 03:03 AM #78SENIOR MEMBER
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$39 cheaper buying them seperately even if you dont get a discount for shipping.
Air Cooled Spindle
VFD
Unless I am missing something.
Set - $479 USD
Seperately - $440 USD
Not much but its something
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20th August 2010, 12:49 AM #79
Question Rod.. when you buy them together, do you get just the two parts? Spindle and VFD? Seems a good idea to get them separately. What sort of lead do you need to run between the two?
I highly recommend making a scale template for the gantry support plates to indicate where to drill all the holes. Made the job SOOO simple.
Seems to track nicely.. Now I need to make the spacers to fill out the gap between the bearings and the gantry support plate.
Everything seems to be level so far!!! .
Brad.
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20th August 2010, 01:39 AM #80GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Brad,
Looking good. Yes it is a good idea to make a mock up of the gantry sides - ally is too expensive to get it wrong.
I usually buy the spindle and VFD togehter but as Chris pointed out buy them separately if you save money. Make sure you get the right VFD for the spindle.
I use four wire shielded cable so you can earth the case of the VFD and shielding to prevent EMI from getting into your signal wires.Cheers,
Rod
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20th August 2010, 09:07 PM #81
Just curious what you guys use to lube the rails? WD40?
Brad
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25th August 2010, 04:00 PM #82
Next I thought I'd draw up the end bearing mount.
It's actually on the drawing backward. I'll tap some holes in it and hold it in place from the back.
I bought a 30mm hole saw for the end bearing mount. Turns out it's about a 30.25mm hole saw, and my hand cutting was a little rough.
So my next thought was to use my CNC.... of course.
Perfect fit... with just a tiny bit of pushing.
Brad.
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26th August 2010, 12:58 AM #83
Well I had a go at making a ballscrew bracket and motor mount.. It's pretty rough... the hole saw to cut the hole for the stepper motor was wobbly and the hole thing is just a smiggen out... so Im wondering if my little CNC with a 1/8" bit 4F will cut aluminium if I run it real slow??? Anyone here tried?
Here's the first one I made...
Also, just how do Chai's bearings / lock nut work? It seems to me if you tighten the nut as tight as possible the hole thing will seize up as the nut is hard against the outer case that doesnt spin??? Do I need some spacers / washer to fill it out?
Brad.
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26th August 2010, 01:38 AM #84GOLD MEMBER
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I cut allly plate up to 20mm thick all the time on my machne. I use a 1/4 inch two flute carbide end mill. DOC 0.5mm and 600mm/min as a starting point.
Don't overtighten the nut on the end of the ballscrew as you will pinch the two bearing and lock them up. I think this is what is happening and that it is not touching the block itself. Adjust it so there is no end float but still can turn. Sometimes you need to shim between the bearings to remove the end float.Cheers,
Rod
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26th August 2010, 09:32 AM #85SENIOR MEMBER
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Does the ball screw come with needle thrust bearings as they should be used to the outside of each bearing block to allow easier rotation when tightened, this is how the commercial machine run, if not as rod stated above just tighten enough to remove the end play.
Daniel
P.S Your machine is looking great, keep it up.
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26th August 2010, 10:42 AM #86GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Daniel,
They are a pair of angular contact bearings at the motor end and a single deep groove on the other end.Cheers,
Rod
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26th August 2010, 11:30 AM #87SENIOR MEMBER
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Cheers Rod,
I would still recommend a thrust bearing as most commercial machines have them installed for a reason, but in saying that i don't think on a hobby machine it would be overly critical.
For those that are unsure as to what i'm talking about, this is what they are. There are normally 2 sets and one sits to the motor side of the dual angular bearings before the nut and the other to the outside of the singular deep groove support at the far end before the nut. This way as the nut tightens, you still have fluent motion.
Daniel
P.S As a side note "Fluid-film thrust bearings were invented by Australian engineer George Michell".
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27th August 2010, 12:00 AM #88
Chai's bearings have a rubber bearing protector on each end. It's this that protrudes a little further then it should. I just discovered if I take them out and push them in backward the nut runs freely. I might try shaving a little off as I'd prefer to have them the correct way around. This should solve the problem.
Tonight I had a quick try at milling aluminium.... Even though my neighbours are old and mostly deaf...lol.. Im pretty sure I was a little above my usual noise level.
Firstly I made a small bracket to hold the angle aluminium in place, set the axis to 0,0,0.... then set the CNC in motion. I started at 400mm/min..... way to fast for 1/8 bit..so after lifting the bit and clearing the aluminium stuck to it tried again. I dropped the Kress speed down to lessen the heat at the cutting tip and dropped it right back to 100mm/min and it seemed a lot happier.
So here's what I cut.... just a test.
Apart from the fact I set x and y axis to wrong place... 1/2 the bit width out... Im happy.
SOOOOO .. this weekend I'll cut two.
Brad.
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27th August 2010, 02:42 AM #89GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Brad,
I am starting my machine now and pulled out the ballscrews and found the same thing with my bearings. The rubber seal locks the nut to the blocks.
I read somewhere to change out the grub screws in the nut as the originals are easily damaged. I thought that good advice becasue if you round off the hex when putting them in you will never get them out.
Let me know how you get on as it will save me some time when I assemble my drive.Cheers,
Rod
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27th August 2010, 10:30 PM #90
OK... was a pretty easy fix. Just pop them out and slice back the outer rubber rim so it protudes the same as the inner ring, then push them back in.. This allows it the sit about 1mm further inside the bearing mount and the nut can full tighen on the inner ring spacers without contacting the rubber protector.
Brad.
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