Thread: G540 & CNC Build

Cool! I'll be curious to see the wiring part How's the laptop work with Mach3? I read on their site that they didn't recommended it at all with laptops because their power saving features screwed with the software...

I cut the holes in the face plate tonight and started wiring. This thing is tight. I've had to solder the wires to the power switch as there just isnt enough room. But on the whole it's coming together nicely. The fan in the power supply blows air out and there is holes in the cover directly above. I placed the 240vac fan so it sucks air in, so there should be a good flow of air.



I should have it finished tomorrow night. I've no limit switch on my widgetmaster so I'll wire them in later when I start my new machine. I think I'll buy the plug for the limit switches tomorrow and cut the hole for it as I'm just now thinking this thing might not be a quick disassemble.


Brad.

www.spidey4fun.com

Originally Posted by Phil Mailloux

Cool! I'll be curious to see the wiring part How's the laptop work with Mach3? I read on their site that they didn't recommended it at all with laptops because their power saving features screwed with the software...

Hey Phil.. Yeah the lap top seems to work fine. I must have 5v output on the printer port.. but honestly I've never checked.

Brad.

www.spidey4fun.com

Hi Brad,

Your stealing my idea.

I put together my prototype controller using the same enclosure. I should be stocking them when I'm back from camping.

Cheers,

Peter.

Originally Posted by phomann

Hi Brad,

Your stealing my idea.

I put together my prototype controller using the same enclosure. I should be stocking them when I'm back from camping.

Cheers,

Peter.

Not really.. Im just making the one. You're the man to get the parts from. And Im sure if you're buying parts in bulk you'll be able to offer them cheaper then the standard price also.

Hi Peter,
Not fair using a piece of ally for your second tier. I can't see where the ribbon from parallel port 1 goes from the SS. Does it run to another break out board under the ally plate?

Hi Brad,

I know your not stealing my idea. It is an ideal enclosure for the G540 though.

Cheers,

Peter.

Originally Posted by rodm

Hi Peter,
Not fair using a piece of ally for your second tier. I can't see where the ribbon from parallel port 1 goes from the SS. Does it run to another break out board under the ally plate?

Rod,

Maybe the attached photos will explain. With this setup I can chose to use the SS or the parallel port from the computer.

The SS port 1 goes out of the 2nd parallel port connector and is jumpered to the G540. By removing the DB25-DB25 jumper I can plug the Parallel port cable from the computer directly into the G540.

The 2nd port on the SS goes to the MB-02 BOB.

If there is no SS in the controller, then the 2nd DB-25 connector on the back of the enclosure goes to the MB-02 BOB.


Under the al plate is all the 240V stuff, the power supplys, relays etc. The top side is for the low voltage stuff. There is enough room for all sorts of Homann Designs boards.

Cheers,

Peter.

Hi Peter,
Thanks makes sense now - nice little ribbon jumper.

I did the same sort of thing with my machine having a fall back to just parallel connection to the driver. The latest SS update has made things a lot better and I can't see myself going back to parallel port now.

I imagine it would be an advantage to you to have both inputs to test your boards and gear. I hope a ModIO finds it way in there as well. Mine is working a treat driving the console - got quite a few hours up on it now without a hitch.

Mine's done for now... more pics. The power supply is 48vdc and my relay control voltage is 3-32vdc so I've used 2 x 2.7k resistors in parallel and a 12v Zener Diode to bring it down a little.



When I start the new machine that requires the limit switches I'll solder in the wires required. I do like this 240V output plugs you have on the back of yours Peter. It makes better sense to go that way then buy an adaptor plug.



I gave it a quick test run tonight and all works well. It's kind of fun pushing the spindle button and watching the mill turn off and on. I'll give it a proper run shortly.


Brad.

www.spidey4fun.com

Originally Posted by rodm

Hi Peter,
Thanks makes sense now - nice little ribbon jumper.

I did the same sort of thing with my machine having a fall back to just parallel connection to the driver. The latest SS update has made things a lot better and I can't see myself going back to parallel port now.

I imagine it would be an advantage to you to have both inputs to test your boards and gear. I hope a ModIO finds it way in there as well. Mine is working a treat driving the console - got quite a few hours up on it now without a hitch.

Hi Rod,

The intention is to allow people with a SS and those without to use the same box design. It is just a matter of changing the configuration.

As to the ModIO, yes there is room. and loots more.

Cheers,

Peter.

There's a minor issue with the relay control. When I hit the spindle button the Kress mill powers up then very quickly turns off. If I hit the button again, the same thing happens. So I tried a 3rd time, and this time it says on. This always seems to occur shortly after start-up. If I let it run for a few moments without the spindle (output1 , pin17) switched on then try it, it seems to work. I've checked all my connections and they seem good, but there's no voltage going to the relay when this occurs, even though mack3 indicates it's on, so I can only assume the G540 isnt switching it on. Any suggestions?

Brad

Can you see on the diagnostics page if the output LED is coming on at those times the router is not starting?

Perhaps your resistor/zenner circuit is providing voltage or current right on the edge of turning it on or not, and under some circumstances it is not quite turning it on.

Just a guess.

Greg

The resistors and zener should be fine..

Zener Diode Voltage Regulator - Electric Circuit

This calculator allows you to work out the resistor required. I place 48V in the input voltage, 12v output and 27mA in maximum current load. Using my 24v power supply I determined the relay, without resistors or diode needed 25mA then added 2mA for the diode. This tells me I require 1333 Ohms resistance and two 2.7k resistors in parallel produce 1350 Ohms

R = (R1*R2)/(R1+R2) (2.7*2.7)/(2.7+2.7) = 1.35K

So... it should be OK.

The diagnostics page says its on.. red light is flash away, but the kress turns off in less then 1 sec. If I leave it sit for 1 minute and try again it works fine. I left it idle for 10min running and it didnt turn off again, but Im still a little nervous it might.

Perhaps the laptop parallel port out voltage at start up is an issue?

Brad.