Thread: G540Kit + VFD Build help needed

Originally Posted by phomann

Hi,

Have a look at this thread. It shows quite a neat layout for the controller enclosure.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f170/g...-build-110937/

Cheers,

Peter.

Hmm, so maybe the relays will screw into the air vent holes? Didn't think of that. I'm about to start chopping, so here goes nothing (or everything...)

Originally Posted by phomann

Hi,

Assuming that you are mounting the Power supply to the base of the enclosure, why not do the same with the relays? Just use a couple of 3mm bolts and nuts.

Yes, if you don't want to use the 2nd relay, then don't install, or wire it up.

As to the back panel, attached is an image of how I cut it.

Also a few images of how I mount the bits in to the enclosure. I use a mezzanine plate. I mount the 240V stuff on one side, with the other side for low voltage stuff like the SmoothStepper or a 2nd breakout board.

Cheers,

Peter.

Wow cutting up these enclosures really east through the Dremel cut-off wheels, and grinding flat the drill hols to mount the PSU has worn out the grinding stone bit.

How important do limit switches end up being? I was going to pass on the GC-04 is I'm just cablings to the VFD, but if in future I want to input limit switches, I might as well hang the expense and just get the GC04, even though it'll mean another week waiting to get it before I can finishing cutting and fitting the case.

Any opinions?

Oh, and is the 4-core stepper motor wire Peter sells suitable for wiring the controller to the VFD, and the controller to the limit switches?

Oh again. Peter, what's the clear stuff you have surrounding the power connectors. Some sort of silicon or glue?

Russell.

Hi Never used limit switches on my machines, as I've never had a need for them.

The 4 core stepper cable is OK for wiring the control signals to the VFD. It is NOT suitable for the power wiring from the VFD to the spindle motor.

There is no clear stuff around the power connectors. I just milled a little relief so the connectors popped in easily.

Cheers,

Peter.

Originally Posted by phomann

The 4 core stepper cable is OK for wiring the control signals to the VFD. It is NOT suitable for the power wiring from the VFD to the spindle motor.

I already have the power cable - reusing the one that came with the machine. It sure looks like the same stuff wiring up the steppers, but I guess it must be large gauge inside.

I've procrastinated in what I'm doing externally for the moment. I'm now looking at getting the internal connections wired up. Attached is a picture of the bits as they sit currently, and a close-up of connectors loosely fitted to each spade.

Now, as per Peter's original description, I purchased 8 small red female spade connectors & 8 large red female spade connectors. But, from what I can see, the two relays take up 4 large, and the rest requires 14 small connectors. This gives me a slight dilemma.

First off, can I put the large red female connectors on the small male connections? The seem to go on OK, although if it loosens up, there could be sideways movement which may take one side off the connector, which I guess is a bad thing?

Secondly, from the grab box of connectors you can see in the first photo, which came with the crimping tool, there are some blue female spades, but not red ones, and they are the large, not small. I know blue is supposed to be for heavier wire. From memory, I bought 16 gauge wires. Will the blue ones crimp these, or are they too big? (The two PSU connections with 2 wires going in, I am also putting blue connectors on as I'm short or red ones there otherwise as well)

Thirdly, while the large connectors are a tight fit on any of the lugs, the small red ones on the relays are a very loose fit, wobbling all over the place. This is bad. Can I just use pliers to squeeze them tighter?

Thanks. Russell.

*EDIT* Actually I think my brown & blue are extra heavy duty. I just did the two hookups local to the switch, in brown & blue, and the wire stripper sized it to 12 gauge. They only just fit into the small red connector (and I wrecked one ) The red/green/black I have is slightly smaller (heavy duty by Jaycar rating).

Questions coming thick & fast now, and I'm sure this is obvious to those who have done it before, but how do you earth to the chassis? Just mount a bolt somewhere and then connect the earth wires to it?

Russell.

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

*EDIT* Actually I think my brown & blue are extra heavy duty. I just did the two hookups local to the switch, in brown & blue, and the wire stripper sized it to 12 gauge. They only just fit into the small red connector (and I wrecked one ) The red/green/black I have is slightly smaller (heavy duty by Jaycar rating).

Brown and blue are 1mm2, rated for 240V 10A (32 cores @ 0.2mm?)
The heavy duty (red, green, black) is rated at 240V 7.5A (24 cores @ 0.2mm?)

IMO buy the right size and if the correct size is a little loose I always crimp it a little to provide a tight fit, it doesn't take much force to bend them.

Also for anything not 240V I remove the PVC jacket and use heatshrink to insulate/identify the cable, you can also crimp and solder the connection if you want then.

Originally Posted by Ch4iS

Brown and blue are 1mm2, rated for 240V 10A (32 cores @ 0.2mm?)
The heavy duty (red, green, black) is rated at 240V 7.5A (24 cores @ 0.2mm?)

IMO buy the right size and if the correct size is a little loose I always crimp it a little to provide a tight fit, it doesn't take much force to bend them.

Also for anything not 240V I remove the PVC jacket and use heatshrink to insulate/identify the cable, you can also crimp and solder the connection if you want then.

Thanks for the advice. I would prefer to buy the right size, problem is availability. If Supercheap have them the right size, I can get some more, otherwise it's mail order, which is a PITA for small orders due to postage costs. I'll work wi what I can till I get that done, and hopefully by then I'll have had a chance to source some more from elsewhere.

Russell.

*EDIT*

Well just looked at Supercheap online. They show 6.3mm and 2.8mm. Of course I need in-between, 4.8mm. So much for getting them locally, or quickly.

Sorry I thought you were getting your parts from jaycar, do you have a local outlet? they should have all the sizes available.

Originally Posted by Ch4iS

Sorry I thought you were getting your parts from jaycar, do you have a local outlet? they should have all the sizes available.

I'll check. We have a music store that is a reseller, but he doesn't have much of a product line.

But there is a Jaycar store in Stanthorpe which is (relatively) just up the road a bit.

Originally Posted by Bob Willson

But there is a Jaycar store in Stanthorpe which is (relatively) just up the road a bit.

Unfortunately we're half an hour east of Standthorpe, so it's as far to there as it is to the one in Bumdamba. Calculating 250km round trip @ 0.25/km travel costs, that's $62.50 to pick up some $5 connectors!

Just remembered, there is a Rexel electrical store in Warwick. Maybe they might have some. Even a trip into Warwick effectively costs $17.50, so we always try to combine as many things as possible when we go, and do as few trips weekly as we can.

Russell.

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Questions coming thick & fast now, and I'm sure this is obvious to those who have done it before, but how do you earth to the chassis? Just mount a bolt somewhere and then connect the earth wires to it?

Russell.

Can anyone confirm this? It's the last hole I have to drill. I see in some pictures the IEC grounds are going to a bolt, but I don't see any PSU ground going anywhere.

Thanks. Russell.

Hi Russell

I don't think that grounds work that way.

The PSU would use the houses ground to safely ground the actual power at 240 A/C volts, but the case can be used to ground the rest of the low voltage stuff so that it is separate from the mains.

So in this instance, the purpose of the ground is to provide an effective return path for DC signals and also to help shield the lower voltages from interference from the A/C.

Of course, having just told everybody exactly how little I really know about electricity and electronics, I am sure that someone will get on and tell me what a twit I am making of myself.

Originally Posted by Bob Willson

Hi Russell

I don't think that grounds work that way.

The PSU would use the houses ground to safely ground the actual power at 240 A/C volts, but the case can be used to ground the rest of the low voltage stuff so that it is separate from the mains.

So in this instance, the purpose of the ground is to provide an effective return path for DC signals and also to help shield the lower voltages from interference from the A/C.

Of course, having just told everybody exactly how little I really know about electricity and electronics, I am sure that someone will get on and tell me what a twit I am making of myself.

Thanks for your explanation Bob, but something doesn't agree with Peter's wiring diagram in that case. It shows the IEC grounds, and the AC ground from the PSU all connected to a common point, and then wired to "Chassis Earth". Now I know electric schematics don't always match real world, but given this is supposed to be a wiring diagram, I'm taking it literally, and just wondering what the physical manifestation of "Chassis Earth" looks like. But then of course, my practical experience in doing this stuff is severely limited.

Russell.