Thread: G540Kit + VFD Build help needed

See below for some of my comments. I also bought the G540 kit from Peter and I also purchased a few things you haven't mentioned. You can see photo's of my finished control box in my thread here:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f170/t...tended-124468/

I strongly recommend the kit as it really made it a simple process to get a controller up and running. At this stage, I have only hooked up my system as a kitchen bench project just to test that the motors and VFD/Spindle actually work (and they did first go with the help of Peter's diagrams and the VFD thread here on the forums). Hopefully over my Xmas break I'll get the machine fully operational.

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

As mentioned in a couple of other threads, my chinese CNC controller has blown up before I even got it working. I've ordered a Huanyang VFD, and am looking to get a G540 Kit (G540 Stepper Controller Package (No motors included) [CC-01] - US$360.00 : Homann Designs!, The preferred CNC Component Supplier) with the enclosure and hook it to the VFD.

So what I'm looking for is a complete list of parts & tools I need to build it all. I've read through the VFD thread, and Peter's wiring diagram for the G540 kit, and mos tof that I at least understand the diagrams, but I'd like to identify the external construction skills more than the internal connections and settings.

So, this is what I think I need. Please let me know if I've got something wrong or what am I missing. Assume I'm starting with nothing.

G540 side

1. G540 Kit, including enclosure
2. Soldering iron & solder (I have beginner+ level soldering skills) should be fine as most connections to the G540 are by screw terminals. The DB9 connectors can be a little bit fiddly but nothing too complex.
3. 240V power cord to power the G540 (old computer power cord) yep
4. (optional) Gecko chiller cooling fan (is this needed/recommended?) i bought it with mine just to be on the safe side and was a breeze to install.
5. Parallel computer cable (my computer has a parallel port) yep
6. Lots of wires to wire the components together, including wires to VFD (specification and estimated length?) this will depend on how close you want to have the VFD to the controller enclosure.
7. 4 current set resistors for the steppers (to attach to the included DB9 plugs) I also bought the DB9 connectors with the built in potentiometer included
8. Wire cutters & strippers to remove the current round plugs on my stepper cables yep
9. Dremel to cut holes & drill/screw in the enclosure to mount components I just used a drill, hacksaw and file but a dremel would certainly make life easy.
10. (optional) enable switch (?) I did.
11. Multimeter to check connections Definitely - to check continuity etc.

VFD side
1. Huanyang VFD
2. Standard 3-pin power cord, female end removed, wires bared(should they be tinned and/or have eye (or spade) terminals on them? Eye Terminal - Red - Pk.8 - Jaycar Electronics) Up to you really. mine will be bare wire twisted by hand.
3. Cable to spindle (Plug cut off current spindle cable and cables bared & tinned?) I bought the cable from AusXmods that was perfect for this connection.

Ok so now some questions I'm not sure of.

a) My current setup has a 24V/1.2A rated water pump, being powered via a round, 2-pin plug coming out of my control box. It runs as soon as power is applied to the box, and is about the only thing that still works on the original controller. How would I integrate this into the new setup. Is it possible to get the 24V supply out of the G540 or the VFD, or do I need a separate power adaptor & suitable connector (or replace the round connector with something compatible?) I understand the relays from the G540 can be used as control sources, but I'm talking more about powering the actual pump. Suggestions appreciated. You won't get power supply out of the G540 other than the 10V to send to the VFD if you control it via Mach 3 (or similiar software) This will require another 24V PSU or if you can use the one out of your other box. Might be best to start fresh given the headaches you've already had.

b) Peter's wiring diagram shows DB9 connectors to the outputs (VFD, limit switches, steppers). I know he did this to break the diagram up conveniently, but would anyone suggest actually wiring up this way to make parts easily moveable, or is it just a waste of connectors to do it that way? Up to you - some people like things to look neat and tidy - others don't give a rats..

c) Powering everything. Given I've blown up one motherboard already, and tripped the RCD more times than I like, can anyone confirm the current requirements of all this.

- The Spindle is 1.5kW, the VFD description says 7A.
- As I said the pump is labeled at 1.2A.
- My PC has a 500W power supply, but is only running the mobo, 1Gb RAM, the HDD and a Geforce 8500GT.
- My small 17" LCD monitor.
?? Couldn't confirm this one for you?? This will probably depend on the RCD you have installed and what capacity it has.
My shed has a small sub-board running from the house meter box, with 1 mains for power, and another for lights. I have 3 double power points spread around the shed to use for my woodworking machinery. They are 10A circuits I think.

Should I be alright running all this?

Sorry, I know that's a lot of info, but I want to get it right before I spend more money this time, instead of finding out after I get it that I've over specced, underspecced or bitten off more than I can chew.

Thanks for help with any of this.

Russell.

BOOK for VFD , make sure your part number is the same

Thanks for that.

Also, here's a picture of the spec on the stepper motors. Do they need a 3K Ohm current set resistor because it says 3A?

what case are you going to use , im eyeing off an old PC case , just trying to find some sizes for the VFD (will it fit in the 4bay hole ?), will just have to blank off a lot of the openings

need more room to shield magnetic interference than the box that came with the cnc ,

dont run data wires any where near 240v , or AC currents ( spindle wires )
they can induce small currents in data lines ( 5volts ) that can cause havoc at worse, 50mm separation , and only crossing power and data wires at 90 degrees , never run them side by side with a zip tie around them all , covering large sources of magnetic interference with metal coverings helps a lot as well ( transformers )

power cables (240v) and spindle cables are the worst , also transformers , they will interfere with your stepper dive wires and data , the stepper drive wires them self could interfere with data lines , so keep your 5volt wires as short as possible , dont put power supply's right next to data boards

Originally Posted by SawDustSniffer

what case are you going to use , im eyeing off an old PC case , just trying to find some sizes for the VFD (will it fit in the 4bay hole ?), will just have to blank off a lot of the openings

Well I was just going to leave the VFD as it comes, standing on the desk. The manuals say to leave it exposed with lots of airflow. No?

Hi,

Had a quick read through the replies, all good information as not much I can add. You may want to get a couple of racket crimping tools as they make a lot of the connections neat and quick.

Heavy Duty Ratchet Crimping Tool For Insulated Terminals - Jaycar Electronics
0.25 - 6mm² Self Adjusting Ferrule Crimping Kit

Apart from that, just ask questions as you go.

Cheers,

Peter

Originally Posted by phomann

Hi,

Had a quick read through the replies, all good information as not much I can add. You may want to get a couple of racket crimping tools as they make a lot of the connections neat and quick.

Heavy Duty Ratchet Crimping Tool For Insulated Terminals - Jaycar Electronics
0.25 - 6mm² Self Adjusting Ferrule Crimping Kit

Apart from that, just ask questions as you go.

Cheers,

Peter

Thanks Peter. Are the bootlace ferrule's the ones that go in the green screw terminals?

Also, where are the insulated terminals used? Searching the Jarcar catalogue, it only returns insulated spade terminals. Are these needed for the internal connections, as they don't seem to fit the VFD inputs/outputs?

Originally Posted by nofunatall_00

a) My current setup has a 24V/1.2A rated water pump, being powered via a round, 2-pin plug coming out of my control box. It runs as soon as power is applied to the box, and is about the only thing that still works on the original controller. How would I integrate this into the new setup. Is it possible to get the 24V supply out of the G540 or the VFD, or do I need a separate power adaptor & suitable connector (or replace the round connector with something compatible?) I understand the relays from the G540 can be used as control sources, but I'm talking more about powering the actual pump. Suggestions appreciated. You won't get power supply out of the G540 other than the 10V to send to the VFD if you control it via Mach 3 (or similiar software) This will require another 24V PSU or if you can use the one out of your other box. Might be best to start fresh given the headaches you've already had.

OK. Any pointers on what I'm looking to find as a 24V PSU then? This one Mains Adaptor 24VAC 1A Unregistered Bare Ends - Jaycar Electronics says it's only up to 1A. Given the pump says 1.2A, that wouldn't do, would it? Does 1.2A seem a lot for a small water pump?

They have another 1.25A one Switchmode Mains Adaptor 24VDC 1.25A - Jaycar Electronics which has all sorts of plugs, but none that match what I need.

I'll probably be making a trip to Brisbane on Monday, which is my closest Jaycar, so I need to compile a shopping list and hope the finance officer approves....

I have a 24 volt 1.6Amp power supply I salvaged from a printer. You can have it if it you want it. It is about the size of a brick.
I live In Eatons Hill about 15 minutes drive from Jaycar at Aspley.
Let me know

cheers
Peter

Originally Posted by Peda

I have a 24 volt 1.6Amp power supply I salvaged from a printer. You can have it if it you want it. It is about the size of a brick.
I live In Eatons Hill about 15 minutes drive from Jaycar at Aspley.
Let me know

cheers
Peter

Thanks for the offer Peter. I'm out near Warwick, so it's a bit far, but I'll see if we're going that way for anything else. You have given me the idea that I should look through old gear I've got though, and see if I have anything suitable.

Originally Posted by nofunatall_00

6. Lots of wires to wire the components together, including wires to VFD (specification and estimated length?) this will depend on how close you want to have the VFD to the controller enclosure.

So for the internal wiring, this should be sufficient? Hook-Up Wire Pack - 2 metres - Jaycar Electronics

Is that suitable for the VFD hookups too, or does that need to be the heavy duty stuff? Red Heavy Duty Hook-up Wire - Jaycar Electronics

Any advice on soldering irons? I only have one of those cheapy iron+nothing setups at the moment. Would like a digital controlled station.

I also, believe it or not, have my Amateur Radio license (3 years ago, haven't used it since) and one day want to get into it, so might be soldering up some larger things than just PCB's, so I'm not sure whether 48W is good enough, or whether to go for 60W. Some eBay deals I'm contemplating are

48W Soldering Iron Station Digital Temperature Control | eBay

60W Soldering Iron Station Digital Temperature Control | eBay

ATTEN SOLDERING STATION IRON LED AT60D LEAD FREE NEW 5 Tips Sydney 1 Year WRT | eBay

There are more similar. Any suggestions?

PS - I want to go lead-free soldering too, but I'm not sure what all that requires.

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Thanks for the offer Peter. I'm out near Warwick, so it's a bit far, but I'll see if we're going that way for anything else. You have given me the idea that I should look through old gear I've got though, and see if I have anything suitable.

Hmm, well, I think I have every adaptor available from 5V - 12V, and even one 20V 2A, but nothing 24V

Back to ebay again, and shopping in China () but would either of these work?

24V 4A 96W AC Adapter Power Supply + AU Plug for Laptop Strip RGB LED | eBay

Universal AC Adapter 12V/15V/16V/18V/19V/20V/24V 96W | eBay

I think that'd be cheaper than fuel trying to get to your place Peter, unfortunately.

*EDIT*

And then one of these to replace the round 2-pin plug on my pump cable?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5PCS-5-5x...#ht_2685wt_922

*EDIT #2*

Am I going about it wrong trying to power my current pump? Would it be cheaper/easier to buy a replacement pump? Any recommendations if so?

I did all my electronics with a 25W solder iron cheapo from Jaycar, nothing wrong with the cheapos for basic soldering like this.

Hakko seems to be a good cheaper branded unit, I see it recomended quite alot on forums, smaller units starts at ~ $150 I believe.