Thread: Grf - cnc #2

You have the same machine as me.Thats what i based my response on.

Man you need to do more machining, it's way to clean!!!

Nice machine there
Is it the Syril or Sieg?

It's the Syil X4+

It's only clean in the photo as I took it right after I fitted the Y and Z Bellow covers. Normally it is a sticky mess of aluminum chips & WD40.

When designing an actuator for limit switches, there should be no possibility to get "on the other side" of the limit.

So a good actuator is a ramp which activates the switch and then continues on as a plateau (right word?) which maintains the activation until the hard stop is reached.

No space where the switch has gone past activation and not yet at physical hard stop.

Greg

Why is that Greg? Is it a safety thing in case the machine is started up already past the limit switch?

I can say the X4 doesn't have this feature. So much screw is wated, which is why it is on the list of modifications that I will make to it.

I was pondering the same question John and I think you have answered it.

Logically if the limit doesn't trigger on initial contact then it is unlikely to make any difference keeping it closed past the point of contact but I hadn't thought of a cold start outside the limits. I would imagine you would have to make a slot in the ramp or in the machine mount to get some adjustment particularly for dual axes.

My limits are close enought to the end of the machine travel that it is not possible for them to de-activate before hitting the ends so not an issue for me.

Finally got around to playing with the machine to produce and learn how to drive programs and output something. (not sure if this is useful at all - yet to determine an app for it)

I had a picture of the kids taken in NZ. Tried to make a liphophane which I 1st saw done by Greg at a BBQ.

Next project I want to play with is drag engraving on glass and such.
Nig and I made the tool holders for the drag units bought from Gregs recommendation.

What tricks should I be using guys? whats the best way to draw say the same picture I used for the kids.

/M

Interested to see pics of your drag tool holders.

Nigel and you make good stuff and have good ideas. I might be able to steal some.

Greg

Will take photos tonight.
Very simple construction. Used an R8 16mm collet. Ground a 16mm plug which allows the rod to slide through, but clamps up tightly to the collet. Behind this is a retainer plug which provides the pre-load on the spring, which is actually a light unit (spring that is). This is of course connected to the shaft of the diamond tool. This was gound a little below 16mm to allow it to move up and down a little.

I don't recall how you made your unit, but i suspect it should be similar.
The good news was that nigel didn't decide to make a really complex unit that had wheels, pre-loaded spings, etc - you get the idea.

Pics tomorrow, or tonight

Here is the unit I mentioned.

The end collet locks to the inside R8 taper.
The next collet is fixed
The sping hits the back internal thread and allows the pre-load to be adjusted