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21st July 2012, 10:10 AM #16
Hi Rod,
Thanks for the reply. The TM20V has a different method of nut mounting than the G0704 mills that Hoss;s conversion is based on, so I'm sort of on my own. I was expecting them to be similar as I thought the TM20V was a clone of the G0704.
From the images, you can see that the nut mounting on my machine has no position adjustment, which surprises me, considering how they are made.
Both the X and Y nuts are screwed in place. The Y even has a boss that fits into the saddle so no adjustment can be made at all.
The X and Y end pates also have locating pins so there is no adjustment available there. I wonder if the threads are cut in place using a special tap that uses the end plates as an alignment jig. Anyway, it doesn't help me.
The G0704 mill retains the nuts similar to your photo. the nut holder sits in a slot and two screw jam it in the slot once everything is assembled.
On my mill, the x nut is mounted with 2 screws that can't be adjust once assembled as the table sit over it. The only was I can see to adjust it would be to not fully tighten the screws, assemble the axis and allow the nut to self align then take the table off and fully tighten the nut screws. This sounds unlikely to work or be very easy to do.
The alternative may be to gut a slot into the saddle and change the mounting method similar to the G0704.
Whichever way it goes, I don't think it will be simple.
Cheers,
PeterHomann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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21st July 2012, 10:35 AM #17
I went out to the shed and had a quick look at the saddle. It is too low profile to use the run mounting like in Rods photo.
The current X axis mount screws into 2 threaded holes in the saddle. one possibility will be to drill 2 new mounting holes (so as not to destroy the old ones) with the nut holder having matching threaded holes. The 2 holes in the saddle could be oversize to allow adjustment.
The X-axis could then be assembled onto the saddle, without the saddle being mounted onto the base.The assembly could be flipped upside down and the X-nut mounting adjusted and tightened.
Cheers,
Peter.Homann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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21st July 2012, 10:44 AM #18
Hi,
The Y-axis mount is located via a boss. There is no alignment adjustment in that method.
I could get some alignment capability in where the nut amounts to the nut holder by using smaller mounting bolts or enlarging the mounting holes.
Initially I'll just try to make an accurate mount and see how I go.
The nut is mounted at the rear of the saddle. The screw is only fixed at the front of the machine so at the closest point the nut is some 6" from the screw mounting point. so a minuscule od misalignment may be tolerated.
Cheers,
PeterHomann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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21st July 2012, 02:05 PM #19
OK, I think I understand how they are doing the leadscrew alignment.
Attached is an image of the base where Y-axis bearing mount attaches. As can be seen there are the 2 threaded holes for the mounting bolts. There are also 2 holes that alignment pins are mounted into. You can see that on the 2nd image.
I believe that the bearing mounting plate is nudged around until the bearing block, leadscrew and nut are aligned. Then the bearing block is tightened and then the holes for the alignment pins are drilled and the pins inserted. If you look at the pins and holes, they are not symmetrical.
I should be able to do the same, drilling new alignment pin holes. Or, maybe the pins aren't needed?
Cheers,
Peter.Homann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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2nd August 2012, 03:49 PM #20
Z-axis
I started looking at what will ve required for the Z axis conversion. The Z-axis on the TM20VL is quite different from the grizzly as the crown and pinion is attached an the angle plate that holds the Z-axis bearing.
Ho remove the Z-axis screw. The bearing plate need to be removed. It is bolted to the side of the column and also has a couple of dowel pins.
First the Z-axis nut is unscrewed from the head. The bolts holding the plate are removed and a soft mallet is used to knock the plate and the pins out off the column.
You can see where the bog (body filler putty) has flaked off during the removal.
The last photo shows the inside of the column. At the bottom you can see the mill stand splash guardHomann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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2nd August 2012, 03:51 PM #21
Before I dismantled the Z-axis I tried to understand a few of the issue I might face in the conversion.
The Z-nut is right at the bottom of the head as can be seen in the first image.
As can be seen in the next few images, there is a lot of Z-travel. And, when I put the Z-axis bearing on the top of the column, I'll gain about another 2". Already it can be seen that the top of the tead travels above the top of the column.
At the moment, the problem I'll likely face is that I won't be able to get the head as low as I like. The last image shows the head in the lowest position.Homann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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2nd August 2012, 03:54 PM #22
I took a photo with the quill fully lowered. Even with this, I don't think it would touch the table. Especially if I was using a smaller bit.
And once converted to CNC with a timing pulley spindle drive, the quill will be locked in the fully up position.
Has anybody machined the slot in the Z-axis to give more travel so as to get the head lower?
I'll have to get a local machine shop to do it as only have a Taig mill.
Also, I'm planning to make the nut housings for the three axes out of aluminium. The Taig mill should be able to handle that.Homann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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2nd August 2012, 03:59 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Check the posts by hoss2006 on cnczone.com (saw your thread there). I'm pretty sure that one of the mods he's done to the Grizzly mill is to increase the slot length.
Geoff
The view from home
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2nd August 2012, 04:13 PM #24
Thanks Geoff, I'll do a trawl through Hoss's posts.
Cheers,
PeterHomann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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3rd August 2012, 11:28 AM #25
LOL, I have Hoss's DVD that shows how to do it.
He shows one method for when another mill is not available.The cut-out outline is drilled with a series of holes, then an angle grinder is used to cut it out, then a die grinder to finish it off.
Has anyone had experience with any machine shops in Moorabbin that they would recommend?
Cheers,
Peter.Homann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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3rd August 2012, 11:53 AM #26GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Peter
Cast iron is soft in comparison to steel and is easy to machine. While machining the clearance would guaratee a good finish the manual method wouldn't be that hard to do.
Put a post on the Metalworking site of this forum and there is a good chance somebody will help you out.Cheers,
Rod
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3rd August 2012, 11:57 AM #27
Hi Rod,
Thanks for the reply.
I do have my Taig mill that I could try. As the very least I could spot drill the holes. Maybe It could do the cut-out. It doesn't need to be fast.
I'll also post on the metal working forum as you suggest.
Cheers,
Peter.Homann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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3rd August 2012, 11:59 AM #28SENIOR MEMBER
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Peter
You could always take a leisurely drive to Geelong.
Don't imagine it would take long on my bigger mill.
Greg
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3rd August 2012, 12:12 PM #29
Hi Greg,
That does sound appealing, I need to check out your laser anyway. I'll PM so sort out a time.
Cheers,
PeterHomann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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9th August 2012, 12:44 PM #30
A bit more dismantling. Hope I can put it back together.
I've removed the column although I had to buy a 12mm Allen Key first. You can see where I plan to extend the cut-out.
As can be seen on the photo of the base, I could also extend the Y-axis but as the Y-nut is at the far end of the saddle, it already extends over the end of the dovetail when fill extended, do for the moment I'll leave it as it is.
The last image shows the underside of the base. I thought about looking at driving the Y-axis from the rear, but I'd need to drill a hole throgh the back and the webbing. That looks a bit beyond by skills.
Cheers,
Peter.Homann Designs - http://www.homanndesigns.com
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