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Thread: MDF CNC kits
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13th August 2008, 10:17 PM #31GOLD MEMBER
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All you need is here
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36099
Greolt originated this and has put the above thread which is very easy to follow. Touchplates are the first thing I put on all my gantry routers and mills I convert. The convenience and accuracy will impress.
I have hooked a couple up to Xylotex boards and use a 100 ohm 1/4 watt resister from Dick Smiths. Pin 15 and the rest of settings and script is in Greg's thread.
The web camera are these.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-Mini-Prot...QQcmdZViewItem
I just did a quick search for this and are not recommending you buy from this seller.
I have attached a couple of photos of the resolution so you can see the magnification. If you get a camera unscrew the cap and turn the lens about 1/3 to 1/2 turn anti-clockwise to focus the camera for about 55mm from job.You will then get the magnification in the photo. Have also attached how I mount the camera. The crosshair in the photo is from Mach3 and not the camera.
Again Greolt did the pioneering work on this concept. The only change is from a laser crosshair to a web camera.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48752
If you are going to take any script off the zone remember to make sure it is in metric.
Having designed the odd screen or three I can help with screens and script if you need it. Still trying to create the perfect screen set by the way.
If this post doesn't make sense then my excuse is I am trying to cut a job at the same time.Cheers,
Rod
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13th August 2008 10:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th August 2008, 10:18 PM #32GOLD MEMBER
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Forgot to add the camera is 15mm in diam to give you a size to work by.
Cheers,
Rod
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13th August 2008, 10:54 PM #33
Thanks for that
So you don't zero the webcam to the centre of the spindle? It looks offset so I assume it's looking to the side?
Now I have another question. This one relates to setting up the motors in Mach3. Have I worked this out right
Steps per revolution: 200
Step Resolution: 8 micro steps
Screws: M12 thread 1.75 pitch
200x8 = 1600 / 1.75 = 914.28571428571428571428571428571
So I need to put the final number in the "Steps per" box of the Mach 3 Motor Tuning and Setup screen?
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13th August 2008, 11:12 PM #34GOLD MEMBER
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Yes the camera is offset but the button script puts the spindle dead centre of the camera crosshair when you press the button. Is a real advantage as you do not have to mount.demount the camera each time. Do the Z axis after this and you are set up and running in very short time.
Yes your calculation is spot on. Mach3 will probably only let you enter the whole number 914 first time. Do the calibration and it will set the steps to decimals. Don't get hung up on the decimal points as 1/914 of a mm is 0.001mm and better than you can measure even with a vernier.
Yes again, the steps go in the motor tuning screen as you say. Don't forget to set the pulse to 2 or higher in the same screen. Xylotex need a 2ms pulse.Cheers,
Rod
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13th August 2008, 11:46 PM #35
Ahhh ok, now I get it. I'll be back with some more questions when I get a camera
I went for broke and entered in the numbers before. I just finished cuting some air (too late to start the router) and did some moves with the MDI screen and everything seemed to move the right distance. I just laid a ruler on the table and eyeballed 20mm movement on the X and Y.
Is the 2ms pulse for the "Step Pulse" or the "Dir Pulse" box? I had zero in both pulse boxes. What does the pulse do?
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14th August 2008, 01:13 AM #36GOLD MEMBER
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Now we are getting in the electronic technical side which I refer to as mumbo jumbo.
As best as I understand it is the width or duration of the pulse. It just gives a little more time for the electronics to see the pulse. Obviously 2ms is a very small time so it is not like it is holding anything from happening. If you hop on the zylotex site or maybe in the instructions there is a graphic that shows the signal as a flat top 2ms duration pulse.
Like I said all mumbo jumbo to me and I hope I have not led you astray with my explaination. You set them both to 2 or as high as 5.
Now you have it running you will be wishing away the hours until you can run the machine for real.
When you get serious about calibration I just set a verier on the table and push the jaw with a set move in MDI. Compare the vernier value and you have your calibration done. Some cut a square and measure the job for accuracy but this assumes the cutter is exactly the right diameter.Cheers,
Rod
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14th August 2008, 10:14 AM #37SENIOR MEMBER
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Just to add to this step duration setting discussion, some more useless info.
The step length when set at zero is 5us. When set at 1 it becomes 6us, set at 3 it is 8us, at 5 it is 10us. etc.
That is micro seconds. A microsecond is a millionth of a second. A millisecond is a thousandth of a second.
Just set it to 2 in Mach if that is what Xylotex recommend.
I use Gecko drives and set mine to 3 as they recommend. But can see no difference if set at zero either.
Greg
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18th August 2008, 11:07 PM #38
I was just giving some thought to workholding on the table and I was wondering what would be a good method.
I'm considering attaching a bit of 300mm wide MDF to the table and getting some of those T tracks from Timecon spaced about 30mm apart (anyone know how wide the T tracks are?)
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18th August 2008, 11:29 PM #39SENIOR MEMBER
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Cheaper here
http://www.woodworksupplies.com.au/category73_1.htm
Greg
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14th September 2008, 08:31 PM #40
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