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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Melbourne
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    Default Most popular breakout board?

    Hi all,

    Just wondering what the most popular breakout board is. There seems to be quite a few around, I have spent most of the day researching.

    CNC4PC C10
    Xylotex
    MB-02-V6 by Peter Homann
    Ocean Controls
    HobbyCNC
    Various other Chinese boards on eBay.

    So what is everyone using? Looking for something with good support.

    Thanks

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    I'm using (planning to use when completely up and running) the Gecko G540 which has the BOB built into it. Mainly because my CNC will only be for hobby use and I don't need huge amounts of power or torque for my machine.

    In terms of setting it up, it really couldn't have been simpler for my kitchen bench tests which for a noob like me was a big selling point.

    ...and ladies and gentlemen, that's my 2c.

    row.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Hi,

    Thanks for the reply, I already have the drivers so unfortunatly I need to run an external breakout board.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
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    Default

    I've used the C10, and both bobs from homann.

    The V6 bob from homann is good if you are a newbie as it has leds on the outputs, it also has a charge pump so that can be handy.

    All 3 bob's work great regardless.



    I never knew xylotex made a bob?

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
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    Default

    Thanks Chris, at the moment it looks like I am leaning towards the V6 as it looks like it's only about half an hour drive from me so should be able to pickup tomorrow hopefully. Local support would be good.

    I was reading the specs on the V6 and it mentions pull-up voltage is selectable between 0V or 5V, now for my drivers it mentions +5v and says something about resistors, does this mean I won't need to use resistors? I guess it would make things a little simple If I don't need them.

    A lot of people seem to be using the C10 as well, but I cant seem to find it in Australia. Is there a supplier here?

    Not sure about the xylotex, I found this earlier Xylotex 4 Axis Board but looking at it now I guess it has the drivers and bob built in together going by the price of it?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
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    988

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    Thanks Chris, at the moment it looks like I am leaning towards the V6 as it looks like it's only about half an hour drive from me so should be able to pickup tomorrow hopefully. Local support would be good.

    I was reading the specs on the V6 and it mentions pull-up voltage is selectable between 0V or 5V, now for my drivers it mentions +5v and says something about resistors, does this mean I won't need to use resistors? I guess it would make things a little simple If I don't need them.

    A lot of people seem to be using the C10 as well, but I cant seem to find it in Australia. Is there a supplier here?

    Not sure about the xylotex, I found this earlier Xylotex 4 Axis Board but looking at it now I guess it has the drivers and bob built in together going by the price of it?
    You'll still need to use resistors in your drivers to set the current, its not too difficult to determine the correct value, if unsure you can ask here and I'm sure myself or someone else will confirm the correct value.

    I sell the C10 but its not as cheap as if you buy from cnc4pc. It's $34 + GST.
    C10 Bidirectional Breakout Board - $37.40

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    400

    Default

    yeah there is some infomation in the documentation for the drivers, I had a quick look at it, it states a few different values for 12V and 24V power supplys. I have a 24VDC transformer.

    Here is a pdf for my driver. http://www.motion.nl/products/mcs/md556d_mcs.pdf

    There is not much difference in cost for the C10. If I had to buy it, I would get it from you.

    I will do a little more reading, the thing that is swaying me towards the V6 is that I can pick it up tomorrow and have a play around with it, I probably won't have the C10 till next week with postage etc.

    Would you rate them pretty much the same in terms of functionality? Ease of use etc?

    Thanks

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    988

    Default

    To change the current of the drivers you linked to you toggle the dip switches as per the manual to get the desired current (page 2)

    Sorry I assumed you were using the single gecko drivers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    Would you rate them pretty much the same in terms of functionality? Ease of use etc?

    Thanks
    I am no expert in the electronics department but when using them myself they were pretty much the same to setup, the usb plug on the homann board does come in handy when bench testing and it also has the addition of a charge pump and the leds.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Yeah the dip switches are already set for the motors. I am just wondering if I need to use resistors for the Pul and dir functions.

    If I get a chance to visit Peter Homann tomorrow(today) I may take the driver and spec sheet with me.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
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    269

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    Yeah the dip switches are already set for the motors. I am just wondering if I need to use resistors for the Pul and dir functions.

    If I get a chance to visit Peter Homann tomorrow(today) I may take the driver and spec sheet with me.

    Hi,

    The MB-02V6 will work fine with these drivers. The drivers have an internal 270R resitors so no additional resistor is need when they are being driven off 5V.

    The MB-02 would have the jumpers set up for the D2-D9 pullups to be active hi, as would the COM voltage jumper.

    Mach3 would be setup with the axis step outputs to be active low.


    As to visiting, I'm not there as I'm working in the city. Also the business does not have a store front.

    Cheers,

    Peter

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
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    Default

    Hi Peter,

    Thanks for the reply, I have replied back to the email you sent.

    As for a suitable power supply, I was reading the manual and it says usb is not recommended due to current limition. Would using the computer power connectors be a good idea? I think there is a 5v supply on the hdd and floppy drive connectors if I remember correctly.

    Alternatively is there a better option such as an external supply?

    Thanks

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    269

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    Hi Peter,

    Thanks for the reply, I have replied back to the email you sent.

    As for a suitable power supply, I was reading the manual and it says usb is not recommended due to current limition. Would using the computer power connectors be a good idea? I think there is a 5v supply on the hdd and floppy drive connectors if I remember correctly.

    Alternatively is there a better option such as an external supply?

    Thanks
    The 5V from the USB is fine. The main problem is that the computer can put the USB port to sleep and remove the power. If you set up the PC to leave the port on all the time and you stay within the ports power limits you will be fine.

    That said I prefer a separate power supply that I have total control of. The 5V from the PC power supply unit such as the floppy supply is fine as well.

    Cheers,

    Peter.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
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    Default

    I ended up going with the KTD-205 from ocean controls Parallel Port Interface card with 24V Relays and Charge Pump Circuit :: Stepper :: Motor Controllers :: Ocean Controls

    The MB-02-V6 was what I was after but Peter was busy this week and I was wanting to have a bit of a play around.

    Anyway the KTD-205 was easy to configure, there are no jumpers on there to set. Connected straight up to my drivers. There was even a configuration file for mach3 to download so I didn't have to manually configure it.

    I just have the X axis connected up at the moment temporary and I can jog from one side to the other via mach 3 without any issues. I still have a lot to learn about mach3, I think I might print out the manual, it's over 150 pages from memory.

    Once I get the hang of it, I will be making some changes and more than likely will be purchasing some of Peters products.

    Thanks for the help & advice

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