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3rd July 2011, 08:10 AM #241Senior Member
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Sounds like your getting on top of it. I was going to say that I could swing past your place (or vise versa) and help you solder the parts in but it wouldn't be for several weeks as I have heaps on at the moment.
I'll PM you my contact details. Its a pity I don't have a shed.. on soooo many levels... otherwise I'd organise a BBQ for us NSWers.
Doesn't sound its a VFD issue in your case but there are parameters that control ramp up and down speeds... I would imagine that they are not used when external speed control is used.
Cheers
Mark
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3rd July 2011 08:10 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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3rd July 2011, 11:28 AM #242
I would be inclined to reset the VFD to factory defaults and re-enter the settings again.
If you do not have a copy of the Manual for the VFD, it can be downloaded from HERE
I do not know what is happening on your machine, but it certainly sounds as if something is stopping an immediate start.
If you manually put 10 volts across the VFD signal terminals, does it start immediately then?
BobBob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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3rd July 2011, 01:20 PM #243Intermediate Member
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Hi Bob,
If I put 10v's to the Vi terminal it starts straight away and goes to 24000rev's.
Measuring the voltage at Vi, its very slow to build up the requested voltage for the rev's inputted. The spindle will start once the voltage is at 0.12v's, sits on 3000rpm as that the lowest speed I've got set on the VFD. Once the voltage climbs above 1.25v's the spindle starts to increase.
When i stop the spindle the voltage at Vi is very slow to decrease so if I hit start again the spindle starts straight away as the voltage at Vi is still above 0.12v's.
What I have to do is get Mach 3 , the smooth stepper or G540 to increase the speed it sends the voltage to Vi of the Vfd unit.
Regard,
Ken
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3rd July 2011, 05:11 PM #244Intermediate Member
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- Dec 2010
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worked it out, I should say I found the answer -
"I don't know if this has been mentioned, but you also need to do to the motor tuning tab for the spindle and set the acceleration to a reasonable value. If you don't do this, the default acceleration value is so low that it takes forever to get to a measurable value." Thank you Peter Homann.
I set my acceleration to 50 and now the spindle starts straight away and hits input rev's very quickly.
The only thing now is when I input 24000rpm I get 23400 and 9.68v's at the Vi terminal, 12000rpm - 11760 at 4.88v's and 6000rpm -5832 at 2.45v's.
This may because the voltage at the 10+ terminal is 10.04v's , will have to some more searching.
What is the best cable to run from the VFD unit to the spindle?
Regards,
Ken
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3rd July 2011, 05:51 PM #245
A shielded cable is best, but I was following a thread on the Mach3 forum the other day and they were talking about Cat5 cable. The general conclusion was that so long as you use both wires of a twisted pair to each connector then that is good stuff to use as well.
As regards the revs you are getting, just adjust the volts until you get the speed you want. So, tell the VFD M3 S24000 and then adjust the volts.
It really doesn't matter as I have found that the speed is a variable even when set that way. Having done that, the speed you get when you input S12000 won't necessarily be correct either.
Bob WillsonBob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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3rd July 2011, 07:09 PM #246Senior Member
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- May 2009
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I found some 4 pair twisted and shielded data cable at the local electrical supply shop.. works a treat and use it also for the steppers (ppairs doubled as described). I would have concerns about the wire guage of Cat5 cable.. remember you could be drawing a couple of amps under load and depending on the length of the run this could be an issue.
Don't be too concerned about the exact revs.. its going to slow down a bit under load anyway.
I've just been doing a aluminium job and cutting 6061 T6 with a 12mm milling bit and taking 1mm cuts the minimum speed to maintain torque is above 6000 rpm .. it starts to struggle and current rises up to 2 amps. Feedrate 600mm/min
Thats with 100% tool engagement.
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3rd July 2011, 09:50 PM #247GOLD MEMBER
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- May 2003
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- Perth WA
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- 3,784
Ken,
Chris at Ausxmods has some 1mm2 four core shielded for $3.30 per metre. I have paid up to $7.00 per metre from local suppliers in the past.Cheers,
Rod
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3rd July 2011, 10:08 PM #248GOLD MEMBER
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Mhasting2004
If you are using a carbide cutter then increase your revs and up your feedrate to around 1m/min you will get better performance. Your toes will curl under first time you do it but as long as you ramp your DOC it should handle it and your finish should be better as well.
To give you an idea I use a 5mm carbide mill bit on ally as I only have an 800 watt spindle and I cut at 1400mm/min and 0.75mm DOC. I can cut faster in a straight line but rapid sideways moves tend to snap 5mm bits.
With a 1/4 inch or a 6mm bit I will cut at around 1700mm/min. I leave the spindle at top speed and ramp up the feed rate until I get chips coming off that are shaped like a 6 but if you are looking at it upside down then like a 9.
I was told that this is what to look for as it is the shape of the flute and therefore the cutter is at optimum feed and speed. The real advantage of an optimum cut is the heat leaves the cut with the chip.Cheers,
Rod
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4th July 2011, 09:58 AM #249Senior Member
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Thanks Rodm
Bit off topic but sort of Huanyang related...
I am using carbide cutters but generally running dry wil only a light spray of wd40 now and then. Made a low pressure air line that evacuates the chips. I'm still hesitant to push up the speeds as I'm still running steppers and I can't afford it to loose steps and stuff up halfway thru. Once I get the servos installed its a whole new ball game
You are right about the higher speed giving better reults as I can get a really nice surface with light cuts at top speed when facing stock "manually" aka using the xbox controller (best Xbox game ever!!!)
The ideal thing would be making a sw servo loop with the current draw of the spindle and speeding up or slowing down with load.... or I could just learn how to drive my CAM better and create better code.
Its my first attempt at a job with aluminium and involves doing full depth profile cutting and pocketing of 25mm stock. why crawl whne trying to fly first is so much mor fun... can you say steep learning curve!
So.. to bring it all back on topic these Huanyang spindles can cut ally and do a pretty fine job of it too.
Suns up and its late enoungh to start making noise.. time to make some chips.
Cheers
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25th July 2011, 10:54 PM #250Intermediate Member
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- Jan 2009
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- Gundaroo
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- 41
Problematic Huanyang VFD
Hi Guys,
I'm having a problem with the VFD on boot-up. It just gets to the first step ASR 1.0 and hangs there. If I'm persistent enough with turning it on and off, leaving a suitable time between on an off, it will eventually start up - up to twenty on and offs. Sometimes it will work pretty much straight up but not often. I configured it correctly and it will work flawlessly once it starts. The thing is only about three months old and came with a two year warranty, but it would appear that my supplier love happyshopping has disappeared. Is it worthwhile trying to get it repaired or should I just cut my losses and buy something else. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Kim
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26th July 2011, 10:18 AM #251
The warranty is not supplied by lovehappyshopping but by the manufacturer.
They will not of course want to pay the shipping but I am sure they would be quite happy to honour the warranty if you could get the VFD to them.
Bob Willson
Link to manufacturerLast edited by Bob Willson; 26th July 2011 at 10:27 AM. Reason: To supply link
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26th July 2011, 11:38 AM #252Intermediate Member
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Thanks Bob. I have been searching for the manufacturer without too much luck. I'll send off an email and see if I can get a response. Maybe they will come to the party.
Cheers
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26th July 2011, 06:17 PM #253Intermediate Member
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- Jan 2009
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- Gundaroo
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Just thought I'd throw this out there. In the shed where the CNC machine is located it's fairly cool around 6c. Before I can get the machine to work properly (not miss steps) I light the fire and when it gets up to 18c the machine is happy to work, except for the VFD. So after about the 30th try to turn it on I thought why not apply a little bit more heat to the mongrel thing. I took the bosses hair dryer out, gave it about a 10 second blast, not too close, with ASR 1.0 flashing, then rebooted the mongrel thing, giving it a little more heat while it was in the start up faze and away it went. Tried it a couple of times over the afternoon and it worked both times. Probably a bit too early to say I've found a work around but it sure is a good use for a hair dryer. Would this suggest something like a dry joint?
Cheers
Kim
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26th July 2011, 07:26 PM #254
Yes
That is exactly the kind of thing that would suggest a dry joint.
So, out with the magnifying glasses and start touching each joint with a bit of heat from a soldering iron.
Good luck.
Bob Willson
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27th July 2011, 09:54 AM #255Novice
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- Jun 2011
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- Surrey,BC,Canada
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- 10
Need some Help from experts on linearizing VFD
I have a Keling ( same as HY) with a 2.2KW Water cooled spindle. G540 No Smooth Stepper.
I have two questions.
Since its Water Cooled what is the lower RPM limit? The thing seems t0 run fine at less than 1000 RPM the specs say 8000.
Second
I can't seem to gt the RPM to map properly. Adjust PD011 set the starting RPM, But the curve is all wrong. I have it set a 133 for 8000 rm. If I change it to 100 it maps to 6000 RPM but the first three data points at 8000, 10000 and 12000 equal PD011?
If you look at the graph Vout from G540 seems to be pretty good.
So what values do I need to tweak
Attached is a copy of the data.
Thanks
Dave
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