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16th November 2009, 06:38 AM #136New Member
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Thank you for your fast reply. The value I set for PD003 which is 50 was only to have the spindle to run slower at start up. I do understand that relation between PD003 and the speed of the spindle or I think I do. When I was using the spindle for the first time with the bit inside I only had PD003 set to 400 PD004 set to 400 and PD005 set to 400 as well. As I mentioned I observed some difficulties for the bit to cut solid wood. I wanted to cut soft wood, namely a board of pine. Today I tried your data sheet with PD003 set to 50 but as the spindle was spinning I tried to change settings for PD003 and I could hear the speed to rise. The thing is the spindle didnt sound to go any faster compared to my initial setings while I was doing my first cut. I shall check the way it cuts with your settings tomorrow.
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17th November 2009, 03:10 PM #137
Martin - when your spindle is running you should be able to read the lcd display and see how many revs it is doing.
h
have you tried changing the vusual display to show what hz your machine is running at? This will give you the speed.
If you change PD003 to 100hz your machine should read a speed of about 8000 revs 0 at 200hz it is equivalent to about 12000 revs, at 300hz it is 18000 revs, and at 400hz it should be at about 24000 revs.
hope this helps.
cheers
noel
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17th November 2009, 06:49 PM #138New Member
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Hmm, it is all set and working still my bits ends are darkish blue which would imply overheating. I tried PD003 set to 50 and with that the display shows 3000. Other 50 I add to PD003 the display would show 6000 and so on. At 400 set in PD003 will result in display showing 24000. Maybe if I had a digital tachometer I could check actual RPM of the tool. Do you think grounding might have something to do with performance of the spindle? I havent ground it yet properly. I just wanted to make sure everything is working fine. Do you guys use ferrite to reduce EMI?
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17th November 2009, 07:39 PM #139
Martin
from what you have just said, it appears that your vfd and spindle are working ok. It is certainly changing as you alter the hz, and is showing the speeds that I would expect at those hz's.
Just a thought - have you checked your feedrate?????
If you are working at the wrong feedrate you could get some burning of the mill.
by the way - what sort of mill bit are you using???
The incorrect sort of bit can also play havoc with cutting.
The other thing to check is the sharpness of the bit. Sometimes - even when a bit looks sharp, it can actually be blunt. I remember well having a similar problem when I was cutting some trophy blanks from Australian Oak (Gum - which is very hard and quickly blunts bits).
When I used a new bit, the burning stopped immdeiately.
Just guessing at this stage, but it never hurts to check out the simple things first.
Cheers
Noel
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17th November 2009, 08:23 PM #140
As Noel said blue black bits normally are becuase of a slow feed rate I have been using trialling 3 mm both up and down spirals from mcjing and at 2 mins a min I get a lot of nice coloured bits and some smoke as well on small cuts .
I am now running at 6m a min and have no blue black bits any more and they keep their edge as well very happy could easily go to 9 if I wanted.
My fav bit is a 3mm Downcut, Depth of cut 4mm at 6m a min Mulitple passes when required.
Bits I am using
So I am hoping that may help a little.
WillyI like to move it move it, I like to move it.
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17th November 2009, 08:35 PM #141
bits
hey willy
Checked out the Mcjing bits - I usually get mine from DEK in Brisbane - they are about half the price and service is terrific.
try here Carbide End Mills Plus, Secure Online Shopping, Premium Quality and competitively priced.
Cheers
Noel
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17th November 2009, 09:05 PM #142
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18th November 2009, 09:02 AM #143New Member
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These are the bits that I was using. There are three bits. First one on the left is solid carbideo and the other two are HSS. Is it normal for the VFD to display ELuS whenever I turn the thing off. Did you happen to have any problems with EMI? I will try different feedrates then.
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18th November 2009, 05:06 PM #144
Strewth those are some serious bits are they for wood? I haven't seen anything like that in the catalogues I have been looking at in Aus.
What bits did you use to cut that?
Is that feathering along the lines it also looks stepped?
Can I ask is this a new machine or did you have a router on it and decided to upgrade it to a spindle.
Just got a new little camera for the workshop so I will take some pics of 3(1/8) mm and a 6(1/4) bit tonight or tomorrow when I get a chance.
Yes I had problems with EMI but the optos on the gecko G540 solved that problem.
Ferrite did nothing for me when I tried.I like to move it move it, I like to move it.
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18th November 2009, 05:16 PM #145
oooops
martin77pl I think you better start another thread I didn't realise we were hijacking marks thread (sorry mark)
Tell us a little about your machine pics etc are always a help in the new thread see if we can nut it out for you people are less like to help if you hijack a persons thread.
WillyI like to move it move it, I like to move it.
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18th November 2009, 08:03 PM #146New Member
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The machine I built is called MechMate. Thanks to Gerald and his forum anyone can build one www.mechmate.com
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15th December 2009, 01:34 PM #147New Member
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Hi folks,
A few days back got my 2.2kW and the Huanyang. Have been doing almost nothing else than reading the tons of post about this VFD on the many forums and the different versions of manuals posted. First I thought that I'd return the VFD because of the Modbus incompatibility but found out that some capable ppl here are doing something to save the situation with a Mach Plugin project. A great favour indeed!
While waiting that I have been thinking to use the 0-10V from my C11 (cnc4pc) BOB. The C11 requires 12V 20mA for the voltage signal power and according to the manual of the VDF there should be 12V 200mA available from outputs EV (IPV) and P24 but I can't find any of these from the connector. Is it really so that these do not exist? There is also a V0 connector for which I can't find an explanation from the manual, what might this be?
I could also get a 24/12 DC/DC converter and take 24V from the UPF or DRV but as I mesured these (without the spindle been wired) there is nothing. Is it so that these work only when the spindle is running?
All help from those who have got the 0-10V to work appreciated!
Thanks,
/Risto
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15th December 2009, 02:54 PM #148Senior Member
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Hi Risto
I think you are getting confused with some of the output specs.
I don't believe EV is connected on our model and if it was would likely be eitehr a common or normally closed contact.
The spec for KA,KB is the rating of the relay (it can switch this much voltage current)
DRV, UPF are open colector optically isolated outputs (different form of switch)
The only output voltage available is VR (which is 10vdc) and if you put a 10k variable resistor (potentiometer) from VR to ACM and attach the center wiper to VI you can adjust the speed.
What your BoB needs to do is replace this resistor and apply a variable volttage from 0-10vdc on VI
Hope this helps
Cheers
Mark
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15th December 2009, 03:28 PM #149
Hi If you need a converter to take the PWM signal from Mach3 to an isolated 10Vdc control voltage have a look at the DigiSpeed DC-03. It has an onboard isolated dc-dc conveter if the VFD can't provide the 10V supply.
DC-03 DigiSpeed GX V3 [DC-03] - US$38.00 : Homann Designs, The Preferred CNC Component supplier
Cheers,
Peter.
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15th December 2009, 10:25 PM #150New Member
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All right, thanks for the clarification about the KA & KB, I missed that the specs ment ratings of relays and nothing more.
I was actually aware of how to replace the pot with C11 voltage output to VI & ACM_gnd but C11 requires an external 12V/ 20mA voltage to generate its 0-10V signal and this is what I hoped to get from the VFD.
Then the next question regarding the attached pic from the VFD manual. I'm almost sure that I have it right but I need a confirmation or correction:
There are two NO&NC relays on the C11 BOB and I thought to use these to drive the CW/CCW/STOP for the VFD from G-code M3&M4. Is it so that FOR & REV are normally high (+24VDC? )and the switches ground them to DCM. Reset RST seems to occure when it goes high when the STOP switch is opened.
Thanks a bunch
/Risto
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