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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    melb
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    Default Working with unseasoned wood slices? Advice please..

    Hey G'day people,

    Several days ago I had the opportunity to do a 3d relief with a small piece of seasoned timber, just some nice pine I believe it is. Size about 18 x 16 cm. Pic included.
    Finished with some Cedar Oil. Two coats with rag.

    trial.JPG

    Job turned out ok, not perfect, I had issues with the Z axis coupler - cheap spring loaded one which was not working as intended, (has been replaced).
    I had never worked with a slice before with bark still around the piece and I think it looks Mickey Mouse!! I like it - so I've gone hunting found someone reasonably local and purchased some more slices.

    50cm diam 4 cm thick some 30/40cm diam slices 3 cm thick etc. Red gum - white gum - pine.. But they are not seasoned.

    I've never worked with unseasoned wood particularly slices, just wondering can it be used unseasoned to do a relief and then let it dry or put it on a backing of some sort. Should I let it dry?

    If I need to let it dry out, bring it in the house where its warm or leave it outside with some spacers between the slices and let it air dry. This process is a long process short process - I havent got a clue, is there perhaps a formula K x X = days required to season?

    Absolutely clueless.. looking forward to be educated.

    Cheers,
    Steve

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  3. #2
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    Sep 2013
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    melb
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    Default

    Nobody going to venture advice huh ...

  4. #3
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    Default

    I hazard to say that any issues working unseasoned timber would not be specific to CNC but woodworking in general. You might get a better response from the Timber subforum: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f14

    Good luck.
    Michael

  5. #4
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    melb
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cray- View Post
    I hazard to say that any issues working unseasoned timber would not be specific to CNC but woodworking in general. You might get a better response from the Timber subforum: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f14

    Good luck.

    I'll try that with thanks, I've never used unseasoned wood with my cnc thought someone else might have.

    cheers,

    Steve

  6. #5
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    Dec 2011
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    Default

    My guess is that if there is too much moisture in the timber it could gum up in your bit and cause excessive heat, rather than clear solid chips.

    You might also risk the piece cracking when it drys, but I'm no expert so take it with a grain of the proverbial.
    Michael

  7. #6
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    Jun 2010
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    Canberra
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    Default

    Unfortunately, it simply won't work. Unless the green timber is *very* solidly fixed, it'll twist and warp as it dries, and it'll tend to check and crack.

    I know this because I tried CNC routing some bowls out of green timber - they looked great after the finishing passes, but trying to dry them both using the microwave in the first instance, and then naturally with a heavy weight on top to try and hold their shape, the uneven contraction of the wood distorted the piece, and cracks started at some edges.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RustyArc View Post
    Unfortunately, it simply won't work. Unless the green timber is *very* solidly fixed, it'll twist and warp as it dries, and it'll tend to check and crack.

    I know this because I tried CNC routing some bowls out of green timber - they looked great after the finishing passes, but trying to dry them both using the microwave in the first instance, and then naturally with a heavy weight on top to try and hold their shape, the uneven contraction of the wood distorted the piece, and cracks started at some edges.

    Rusty hey g'day,

    Thank you for your reply, you've said the magic words for me, you have tried and it didn't work good enough for me.

    All I need now is to work out how long to dry the current slices I have before using them. They are about 50cm diam by 4/5 cm thick.

    Cheers,

    Steve
    Thank you to everyone else who have taken time to reply - much appreciated

  9. #8
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    Default

    seasoning takes about 1 year per inch of thickness
    how come a 10mm peg dont fit in a 10mm hole

  10. #9
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    Jun 2010
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    Canberra
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by curiosity22 View Post
    All I need now is to work out how long to dry the current slices I have before using them. They are about 50cm diam by 4/5 cm thick.
    If they're cross-cuts of a log, you really need to seal the cut surfaces well otherwise you'll get cracks forming - a couple of coats of paint should do the job. It'll have the effect of slowing the drying, but that's better than having unusable material.

  11. #10
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    Aug 2008
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SawDustSniffer View Post
    seasoning takes about 1 year per inch of thickness
    I thought that was only for boards, not endgrain slices

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    I thought that was only for boards, not endgrain slices
    A cross-cut slice will potentially dry a lot faster than a board, but if allowed to do so will very likely form cracks, hence why I recommend thoroughly sealing all exposed end grain.

  13. #12
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    Default

    It is almost impossible to dry a slice across a log without a big crack going in to the centre. If you think of the cells on the outside drying and contracting then a gap has to open up. However if you take a flitch off the outside of a log you might be able to machine that green and dry it without cracking.

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