Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 20
-
3rd June 2011, 07:56 AM #1
Water cooled Chinese spindle disassembly
Hi
Thought I would put this up for any one who might want to see or think about stripping down there spindle
Back ground to spindle....
We got this 2.2kw spindle from linearmotionbearings2008 on ebay Has run well for the year we have had it.
The reason for disassembly....
Had a most frustrating problem with my spindle most my fault.
I was cleaning the mill down after routing some wood getting ready to do some aluminium. Can not run the coolant with wood dust. So what I do is to sweep up what I can then re direct the coolant out flow to a large bucket and hose down.
Here is where the problem started I hose the top of the head and the water run down the spindle power cable into the plug, so when I turned the spindle on next day it popped the house safety switch.
Tried blowing and wiping the water out then put heat gun on to it for a few hours still no go.
Only one way left to go, have to disassemble to get the water out. Well I always wanted to know what was in side.
So here are the photos of the disassemble.
No special tool where needed 2 allen keys and 2 long threaded 5mm bolts to remove bottom bearing housing from body.
It come apart ease enough.
images
#200 complete spindle
#206 top off
#209 show moisture and rust on inside of lid
#210 spindle laid out from top
#211spindle laid out form bottom
#217 bottom bearing's
#224 ID label on side of spindle that how it came
#229 rear bearing
Before reassemble waiting on new water proof plug to arrive
Russellvapourforge.com
-
3rd June 2011 07:56 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
3rd June 2011, 08:13 AM #2
rest of photos
vapourforge.com
-
3rd June 2011, 09:32 PM #3
Got the new water proof to 1 mt plug, not bad for under $20 delivered to my door.
Had to open the top cap of spindle to 22mm to fit plug and put in two 3mm taped holes plus one for the new earth connection. The old earth was spot welded on and only had one strand left hanging on. Also added water proofing between the top cap and body by put some silicone as this had no seal.vapourforge.com
-
3rd June 2011, 10:50 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 988
Thanks for posting the pictures up, I've yet to pull one apart.
That ground is dodgy as, I've also been told those mic connectors should have never been used for the spindles I think it was due to the metal body and no insulation on the inside.
Atleast you know you have some good quality bearings.
I find it strange that they sanded off the manufacturers name.
-
4th June 2011, 01:41 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Cockatoo Vic
- Posts
- 996
-
4th June 2011, 03:10 PM #6
Plug and socket is from
AMPHENOL|C016 20D003 110 10|SOCKET, FREE, SCREW, 3P+E WAY | element14 Australia
AMPHENOL|C016 20C003 100 12|PLUG, PANEL, SCREW, 3P+E WAY | element14 Australia
Ch4iS just noticed one of your ausXmod invoices on my desk .I like the quick delivery.Thanks
Russellvapourforge.com
-
13th June 2011, 09:24 AM #7
Just finished with new cable for the spindle this should cut down on some of the EMR.
Look cool any ways
Russellvapourforge.com
-
13th March 2012, 12:32 PM #8
Hi
Had a problem with the spindle, I kept getting a chattering when milling aluminium. For example when facing in a circular patten from 9- 12 made a racket and again 3-6 the rest was reasonable. The was also a clik sound from bearing when spun by hand
So pull down the spindle again and paying much more attention to the bearings this time.
What I found was The 2 front bearing are p4 angular bearing (Chinese) But they where both facing in the same direction without an opposing ones This allowed the shaft to move up and the wobble. Secondly the bearing outers where retain on a rubber spacer all so allowing vibration in the shaft.
So set about rebuilding the front end bearings
Aim us the same housings just put new bearing with new spaces blocks.
Attached are photos showing inside of spindle.
The Allen key in front bearing housing show where you put in one of 2 5mm grub screw to push the housing out of the body part.
The rubber ring is the raised part in the photo This part also had a very rough finish on its back.
More to comevapourforge.com
-
13th March 2012, 05:10 PM #9Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Location
- North Brisbane
- Posts
- 57
Hi Russel, I pulled my 1.5kw water cooled spindle apart last night, and mine seems different to yours as far as the bearings go. I have a wavy washer preload spring under the top bearing and two normal bearings on the bottom, no rubber ring anywhere. It took me an hour to work out the bolt on the top end of the shaft was a left hand thread.
I didn't take any pics.. should have.
cheers
peter
-
13th March 2012, 07:26 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Cockatoo Vic
- Posts
- 996
Recent activity in this thread has come at an opportune time.
My 1.5kw air cooled spindle has developed a noisy bearing.
I have ordered another from Lovehappyshopping.
When it arrives and is installed, I will disassemble the old one and look at replacing the bearings.
If the bearings are as expensive as I fear, I may just order another spare spindle. ($205 AUD landed)
Greg
-
13th March 2012, 08:28 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Perth WA
- Posts
- 3,784
-
13th March 2012, 09:10 PM #12
Sorry about the left hand thread Peda it was on the list to say
Also I found that the bearing retaining nut on the font of the shaft (aluminium one) you have to be careful when unscrewing it across the missing thread where the spanner fits. As it can cross thread going on to the second part of the thread. This might be only on mine one?
Made the new spacers up and put it back together. We had to much grease in the first time and it pull 2 amps to do 6000 rpm and was hot.
Had to play with how much to tighten the bearing down. Too much and it runs hot at 70c at 24000 rpm. Got it now running at 50c at 1 amp. Also took the rpm at the spindle with the taco and the reading was 23,890 rpm.Display 24000....
I would real like to run it on a oil feed but I have not been able to work out how to remove the oil and to stop it dripping on to a wood job.
Had to add a small space at top bearing as the front spacer moved the shaft 1mm down.
In the photos the stain on the shaft was from the glue holding the bearing on. Could of run it with no bearing retaining nut on the shaft. There was no adjustment here!!!
Actually broke one of the old bearing tiring to get it off.
Tomorrow I will strip it down and see how it look after being run for a few hours. Put it all together and put it back in the mill.
Hopefully I will be able to mill aluminium with out the tool bouncing around.
Russellvapourforge.com
-
28th April 2012, 09:53 PM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 107
-
29th April 2012, 07:04 AM #14
I can not remember which aquarium pump I am using found it on the side of the road.
Just look at the cnczone for this thread as I was ask the same question there and yes it is post 17. Here is the link
Water cooled Chinese spindle disassembly - Page 2 - CNCzone.com-The Largest Machinist Community on the net!
The co2 is the tank for the air spring for the head balacing
Russellvapourforge.com
-
1st May 2012, 10:00 PM #15
There must be a local replacement bearing that can be used instead of spending $200
Similar Threads
-
my 3kw air cooled spindle is weak
By ahmed in forum CNC MachinesReplies: 4Last Post: 29th May 2011, 11:34 AM -
water cooled spindles
By maddog 62 in forum CNC MachinesReplies: 3Last Post: 9th May 2011, 01:20 PM -
Water cooled spindles
By benupton in forum CNC MachinesReplies: 7Last Post: 29th April 2011, 07:43 PM -
Water cooled chainsaw chain
By matildasmate in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLINGReplies: 25Last Post: 21st September 2009, 03:53 AM -
Setting up a water cooled spindle
By Lappy in forum CNC MachinesReplies: 7Last Post: 31st July 2009, 12:00 AM