Thread: MJ2325DS Carba-Tec 10" Cabinet Saw with Sliding Table - Done

Originally Posted by fozz

G’day folks,
First off I’d like to thankyou all for a great forum with a huge amount of information. It has helped me immensely in making decisions on purchases of machinery over the last few months that have been a pleasure to use.
hands had been available.


I hope this review, while being long can help someone else make a decision on purchasing a table saw as much as this forum and you folk helped me.

Regards to you all,
Ross.

Hi,

I am a long term woodworker but up to now I have had to be satisfied with the Triton saw bench. (and their 9 and a quarter inch saw). Its been a lot of fun but I think it's time to retire it. I have been looking to buy a good quality replacement, and I am inclined to get something that is going to outlast me. This saw seems pretty good and your review is very encouraging.

I do have one question. This is a 15 amp saw. I don't have a 15 amp plug in my workshop. Can I get by with regular power and a change of plug on the saw? How importnat is it to get the 15 amp ower?

Tranmere

Originally Posted by tranmere

Hi,

I am a long term woodworker but up to now I have had to be satisfied with the Triton saw bench. (and their 9 and a quarter inch saw). Its been a lot of fun but I think it's time to retire it. I have been looking to buy a good quality replacement, and I am inclined to get something that is going to outlast me. This saw seems pretty good and your review is very encouraging.

I do have one question. This is a 15 amp saw. I don't have a 15 amp plug in my workshop. Can I get by with regular power and a change of plug on the saw? How importnat is it to get the 15 amp ower?

Tranmere

Get a sparky to install a 15 amp switched plug. You can plug a 10amp tool into 15 Amp outlets but you can't run a 15Amp machine from a 10 amp outlet. My sparky told me why but I forget except that it was important to have the 15 amp outlet for the 15 amp motor.
Cheers
Mike
PS: I used to live in a suburb of Hobart called Tranmere! That where you're from?

I could wish I lived in Tranmere. I was there from 1995 to 1998 but I am in Canberra now. It was a terrific pace.

To backup Shedhands statement, here is the maths.

15 Amp is like a maximum of 15 x 240 = 3600 watts

10 Amp = 10 x 240 = 2400 watts.

Obviously the manufacturer recons that this saw will exceed 2400 watts, especially at startup, therefore the 15 Amp plug. The compliance plate should confirm this.

A useless piece of trivia for you. If your saw uses a DOL (Direct on Line starter) meaning no assistance from extra components like a soft starter etc... it will more than likely draw about 6 x the current at initial start up then it will when its actually running. This can be a real problem on larger motors, especially 3 phase.

Of course your wiring and circuit breaker will have to be able to cope with the extra current draw.

There are special circuit breakers available to suit motor starting appications, but I dont see the need in your instance.

You may get away with using the 10 amp, but I dont recommend it.

Originally Posted by jatt

A useless piece of trivia for you. If your saw uses a DOL (Direct on Line starter) meaning no assistance from extra components like a soft starter etc... it will more than likely draw about 6 x the current at initial start up then it will when its actually running.

Hmmm. that's what happens when I start my Dust Collector. It has a single phase 13amp motor but a 10 amp plug (original) and when I start it it trips the circuit breaker and I have to restart while the armature is still spinning to get it running. Is there some gizmo i can fit to stop that happening?

First of all I would get all the info u can off the compliance plate. From the 10 Amp plug one would have to hope (and assume) that it is not 13 Amps continuous.

Of course any other appliances hooked up to the same circuit at the same time arent going to help ur cause. Some of the stuff one sees, honestly it is really worth risking burning the place down?

Recon u will have to talk to a sparky. U dont wanna create a bigger problem for urself by doing something without asking him the questions first. Dont wanna overlook stuff like wiring size/condition.

Talking to a electric motor rewinder/repairer can be very helpful too.

A run start capacitor for the motor (if it doesnt have one already) would be something I would ask him about.

Not sure if u have the old ceramic type fuse holders or the newer hard wired circuit breakers in ur mains board. On the ceramic style a 10 amp HRC (High Rupture Current) fuse maybe a possibilty. From memory HRC fuses by nature can allow a short duration current higher than their rating to pass thru. From what u r saying your problem seems to be simply a startup issue. U maybe able to have something that is motor rated installed if u have the hard wired circuit breakers.

Not sure if u can get a something like a soft start for something as low as 10 amps.

At the end of the day u might have to bite the bullet and have a 15 Amp setup installed.

Good luck with it.

Originally Posted by jatt

To backup Shedhands statement, here is the maths.

15 Amp is like a maximum of 15 x 240 = 3600 watts

10 Amp = 10 x 240 = 2400 watts.

Obviously the manufacturer recons that this saw will exceed 2400 watts, especially at startup, therefore the 15 Amp plug. The compliance plate should confirm this.

A useless piece of trivia for you. If your saw uses a DOL (Direct on Line starter) meaning no assistance from extra components like a soft starter etc... it will more than likely draw about 6 x the current at initial start up then it will when its actually running. This can be a real problem on larger motors, especially 3 phase.

Of course your wiring and circuit breaker will have to be able to cope with the extra current draw.

There are special circuit breakers available to suit motor starting appications, but I dont see the need in your instance.

You may get away with using the 10 amp, but I dont recommend it.

An update. I moved house again recently (4 times in 12 months and no more ) I now have a shed (the garage) to work in and I've set my table saw up at last. I was going to get a sparky to install a 15 amp circuit for the machine but a mate who know's about these things said that for the sort of cutting I do it is safe to run the 15 amp saw from a standard 10 amp power point provided its not longer than 2 or 3 minutes with a cooling off period of about the same. So I made a half metre 15 amp to 10 amp extension cord. I've used it a dozen times for ripping some tas oak and had no troubles. If I need to cut any large sheet materials I'll get it cut at one of the cabinetry shops around the place. I'm not recommending this but just letting you know it works for me. I feel the power cords for any undue heat constantly and 3 minutes of cutting causes little or no heat in them and thats about the time it takes me at the most to make any cuts i need.
Cheers
Mike