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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
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    South Australia
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    Default work bench protection

    Hi I'm new to this but have always wanted to get into woodwork. My dad recently acquired his dad's old school work bench which has a tool well in it, between the both of us we have decided to restore it and use it too. I've sanded and am ready to put a protective coat on, I brought an oil based varnish and the can reads to dilute the first coat with 10 to 15 per cent mineral turps, from what I've been reading there are a few different views on this. should I discard the additive.. And is this what I should be doing. the bench originally looked like hard wood but had tar or some sort of harsh oil on it, must have been outdoors. The old man basically trimmed it in soft wood.
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Default

    Welcome Scott

    The thinning of the first coat is so the thinner liquid can penetrate deep into the timber and fill the pores. The un-thinned varnish will have a tendency to sit on the surface, which is fine for the subsequent coats.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Welcome Scott

  5. #4
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    Aug 2006
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    Canberra - West Belco
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    Welcome to the forum and i agree with Paul.

    I would likely go further with the initial thinning to 40/50% mineral turps and keep applying it till it doesn't instantly soak in, let it dry then add a couple of un-thinned layers giving good dry time between.

    Cheers
    Phil

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

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    Scott, what you want is to seal the wood against penetration from oils that may be spilt on it. That is all. You do not want to create a slick surface, such as varnish will leave, as this is anti-work holding.

    On my bench, I have one coat of Danish Oil which was wiped on, then off. In fact, before doing so, the bench surface was roughened slightly. You could do this with 80 grit sandpaper - just wiping it over the top.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    3,402

    Default

    Where will the bench be located? If it is inside a shed or similar then a wipe on/off oil finish is fine, but if it can be exposed to rain then a varnish would provide more protection from the elements, thinned down as per the instructions. Go double on the exposed end-grain; that is where moisture will penetrate.

    I have two workbenches; my indoors one has a top made from Tassie Oak and a BLO finish. My outdoor bench has a top made from pine sleepers and was given two coats of some old varnish I had laying around. Although it is located under a carport and out of the rain it is exposed to moisture and rain can be blown onto it but after a year it hasn’t suffered any problems.

    I agree with Derek’s recommendation to leave a slightly rough finish on the timber, my outdoor bench was finished with 80 grit and nothing moves under the hold-downs.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    2

    Thumbs up

    Thanks for your input guys, Ill take it onboard and have a crack..cheer's

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    United States Of America
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    194

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    Wipe on matte polyurethane is my favorite for many projects.

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