Thread: Drawer Runners

I'd consider adding strips of HDPE, about 0.5mm thick, to the bottom edges of the drawers. Makes a dandy bearing material. If hard to find such material, cut a spiral from the side of a household bleach bottle. Most adhesives won't work with such plastics, so stapling is probably best. Cut a recess at each end of the drawer edge to keep the staple from plowing the carcass runner, or align the staple with the travel direction and let it make a single groove in the runner. You may need to plane or sand the drawer edges to achieve proper compensation for the wear, but the closed position is the only one that matters much.

Can't help with the other two questions.

Joe

I would use a sharp chisle to get bottom edge of the drawer flat.
then use a strip of thin beading to build up the bottom.
in the inside where its worn, glue a strip of the same beading to make a dam,
then fill neatly with builders bog.
wax both surfaces to help the slide.
could be cyprus pine? oregon was used in the 1920's this could have been locally made by turks although they didnt come over untill later, or brought over

Astrid

Don't use filler or builders bog! I have seen it used and it is very unsatisfactory... With the drawers and their runners so badly worn the only real way to fix it is to replace the worn parts.

The best person to advise you is Woodwould, see his post here where I asked him this very question

https://www.woodworkforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=74633

I have repaired a couple of of old silky oak chests in a similar condition to yours....(And like yours, they obviously have been in a wet condition, the fastest way to wear out the drawer slides and runners). I do not consider myself to be an expert but for what it is worth this is what I would do:

Remove and replace the drawer slides in the side of the cupboard. Cut them through first. The new ones ideally should be floating... screwed/glued at the front and allowed to slide at the back, usually with a sliding mortise and tenon. If this is not possible, you could use slotted screw holes to hold the drawer slides to the case sides. (The reason for this is to allow for the fact that the sides expand and contract more across the end grain than the slides do along their length) Use a good quality hardwood for the replacements.

As for the drawers themselves, you will probably need to cut the bottom off the sides of the drawers. I have attached a word document that illustrates how some do it.

And when you finish, do not wax it... it is better to rub it with a little bar soap if you have to use anything.

Good luck with it all,

Chipman