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  1. #1
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    Sep 2020
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    Default My first ever project with a piece of furniture...

    Well, I have started...The pictures show the table I'm trying to restore and the top surface.

    I have no idea what type of wood is that, perhaps someone can identify it please?

    After watching a few restoration Utube videos, I still don't know if to oil, varnish, beeswax or French polish it. Although I think that it would be too pretentious to start with French polishing. So, I am left with 3 options. May the force be with me...

    I have used a paint stripper and then sanded with 120 paper.

    We shall see....

    I will start my Woodworking Course in October...can't wait!

    Thanks for any tips!
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  3. #2
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    Jan 2014
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    What’s the original finish?
    If shellac, it will dissolve in Methylated Spirits . Try on an unseen section like the bottom the the aprons.
    i would shellac/French polish it if it were mine.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Tip no 1 .

    Before you touch the thing consider what you may want the piece to look like finished then ask the questions .

    To strip then deep sand has led this piece into the valley of no return. DEEP into a lot more work than may have been necessary .

    A nicely restored piece could have been had by just taking off the finish and re polishing keeping its existing stain in place. That's if you like that colour.

    If you wanted some big change in colour (like pink or blue) then sanding out the old job and starting again is the way to go. But you first consider if you want all the work of doing that by knowing the wood type . An open grain type like that holds all the older dark stuff down low , its hard work getting it out . Also work out if the top is veneered or not . It probably isn't but if it were then you risk sanding through if deep sanding like this .

    It looks like its Oak . This sort of Jacobean look was done in Oak and Also in Vic Ash . The top looks to be Oak though as does the top of the right leg. It could be a mixture of Oak and Vic Ash / Aussie hardwood .

  5. #4
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    Default

    It’s english oak

  6. #5
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    Sep 2020
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    Australia
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    Default This is more difficult than I thought...

    First of all THANKS for your replies. Now I know it's oak!

    I might have reached a point of no return as Auscab said. After stripping and sanding I am left with this (see photo).

    I bought "Sanding sealer" and "Scandinavian oil". My intention was to apply the sealer, light sand it again and then finish it with the oil. Perhaps it's not the right choice, but...we learn from our mistakes... I will apply both products in a small non-visible area and let's see what happens.

    What I wanted was a finish that showed the grain. No paint, no stain.

    I might even change my mind and just apply clear varnish. I shouldn't have started with barley twist legs...they are a pain to sand...

    What I do know for sure is that I have a LOT to learn...

    Once again...thanks a lot!
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  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    It’s english oak
    Its most likely not English Oak at all . What makes you think that ?

    Its built in a time of Mass production when many millions of tons of timber was imported to the UK and what was left of their lovely forests were being kept . Its very common to see UK made Oak furniture made from the imported Oaks .
    From the period not long after they built big boats . The quality of English Oak leaps out at you . The difference is amazing.


    This style was popular here as well as OS so its very common to see Australian made Jacobean styled stuff by the ton . It was made here in Oak but also in Oak looking Aussie hardwoods . Sometimes with a mixture of both .

    This piece looks all Oak but nothing about it looks like English Oak. For starters it has very open pores holding all that dark colour . English Oak Quercus robur - Wikipedia is a much more close grained timber . Not so open . More heavy and Glassy hard than common US White oak or other Euro types .

    If anything , some of the grain in the top of that reminds me of Fine grained Japanese or Asian oaks , some of it also has a rotary peeled look about it almost . Which is why Im saying to make sure its not a veneer on top . It needs a pic of the end grain of the top boards showing the top as well . Mostly they are solid but you never know until you check what you may find .

  8. #7
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    Sep 2020
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    Australia
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    Default I don't think it is veneer

    Hi,

    The table is quite sturdy and relatively heavy. After sanding the top is very, very smooth and soft to the touch.

    As you can see there is a label: "Walter G. Lord, Furniture Manufacturer. Little Queen Street, Chippendale Sydney NSW.

    I found an article about Walter G. Lord in the Sydney Morning Herald about a Polishers' Strike on the 4th of August 1920.
    " The New South Wales No. 1 Branch of the Federated Furnishing Trades' Society was summoned in the Industrial Arbitration Court yesterday, before Judge Curlewis, to show cause why it should not pay a penalty not exceeding £500. The summons was issued at the instance of Percy Favatt Horley (secretary to the Master Cabinetmakers' Association of New South Wales). It was alleged that on August 4, and thereafter, certain members of the union and the executive took part in and aided and abetted an illegal strike amongst the employees of Walter G. Lord, furniture manufacturer, at Chippendale.
    It was stated that a foreman at Lord's works came to the conclusion that a french-polisher was "going slow" at his work. The foreman pointed it out to two French-polishers, and from that moment the foreman came under the ban of the union, and efforts were made to remove him. At first the efforts were confined to the foreman himself, and when they failed and he continued to do his duty pressure was brought to bear upon Mr. Lord through the union's officials. Two other polishers left, and the union would not allow others to take their place. Eventually Mr. Lord had to get rid of the foreman. When he left the ban was removed. The further hearing of the case was adjourned until this morning."

    Nice to know a bit about its origins.
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  9. #8
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    Looking good . Nice bit if history there As well .

  10. #9
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    Apr 2014
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    Kew, Vic
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    Hi Charpentier,

    A lot of good advice there from Auscab. You may not be aware that he is a professional in the area of restoration so he speaks with many years of experience.

    If you want to learn more online about restoring this type of furniture there are some good YouTube offerings on the Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restorations channel.

    Your local Men’s Shed could probably give you some face to face tips and there are lots of books out there on furniture finishing and refinishing - probably in your local library too.

    Good luck,

    Brian

  11. #10
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    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    Default

    +1 for Thomas Johnson and Auscab.

  12. #11
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    Sep 2020
    Location
    Australia
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    Default

    Thanks Homey. I sensed that Auscab knew what he was talking about...and you confirmed it! I will have a look at your Utube suggestion. Just found out about the Men's Shed, now I have to find one in my area. Once again, thanks!

  13. #12
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    Default Not long to go...

    This is how the table looks with two coats of Scandinavian oil...

    I saw a clip where the guy sanded the wood lightly with 600 grid wet & dry sanding paper before applying the 4th coat of oil.

    The table is quite smooth...I'm undecided about what to do. Might give it a try only to give it a super smooth finish.

    We shall see...
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  14. #13
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    Sounds like a good idea . The smoother the better. You don't want to feel any fine pimple like bits . They hold the dust and its harder to wipe it clean . I give a wipe over with a fine paper that's also worn out . Then finish with either a wax finish or I give it a soft wipe over with 0000 steel wool then a wax.

  15. #14
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    Sep 2020
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    Australia
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    Oh! Can I apply beeswax on top of the oil for the final applucation? Steelwool seems less harsh than sandpaper...I'm afraid to scratch it now rhat it looks good!

    Thanks Auscab!

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charpentier View Post
    Steelwool seems less harsh than sandpaper...
    It is but Paper is better for cutting the tops off pointy pimple like bits . Steel wool is better at getting an even spread cut back . Using both methods is best on a polish job.

    And , A Big AND , you really want to be using Liberon 0000 steel wool . Its better than other 0000 wools and will make the difference between a average job and a good job .

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