Thread: 1/5th Scale Peny-Darren 1804 Locomotive

Originally Posted by Repliconics

Just thinking about the solid stock idea.
You could run some fencing wire through the pipe.
To support it at the bends.

Trevor,

That's a great idea. What if I got some aluminium solid bar or as you said wire just under the bore of the tube diameter (is that what you meant ?) - I like aluminium, But I worked in the steel wire industry for 42 years.

Thanks

Keith

Made up the steam exhaust cylinder and fitted it. I was pretty proud of my support brackets I made - basic, but I think you tend to like certain things you make more than other things you make.
The extra fitting at the front will be connected by copper tube to the smoke stack. The rear of the cylinder exhausts to atmosphere - there will be copper tube fitted.

Enjoyed the work today - back to my old fitting and turning days.


Keith

G'Day Keith, A cheaper option for bending light gauge copper tube which I've used in the past, is a conduit spring..
Not overly expensive... mught be worth considering?? Cheers, crowie

https://www.google.com.au/#q=conduit...ctive&tbm=shop

PS - Loving this build...you doing great, thanks for the extra photos and notes...much appreciated..

Originally Posted by crowie

G'Day Keith, A cheaper option for bending light gauge copper tube which I've used in the past, is a conduit spring..
Not overly expensive... mught be worth considering?? Cheers, crowie

https://www.google.com.au/#q=conduit...ctive&tbm=shop

PS - Loving this build...you doing great, thanks for the extra photos and notes...much appreciated..

Thanks Crowie, appreciate you getting the info for me. I am loving making this locomotive. It is something totally different. Didn't know about Peny-Darren and I am a train lover.

Regards

Keith

It's looking fantastic Keith.
The fact that your enjoying the build can be seen in the quality of work your producing!
If you don't mind me saying as good as the Ford is, you've stepped it up here with The Peny-Darren build.

I think a piece of wire through the copper should work quite well for you.
I ran a piece of fencing wire through some pipe this afternoon.
It was a nice fit and I used the shank of a small drill bit to bend it around.
It worked very well.

Good luck with it!
I'm really enjoying the build.
Keep up the great work.

Cheers
Trev.

Originally Posted by Repliconics

It's looking fantastic Keith.
The fact that your enjoying the build can be seen in the quality of work your producing!
If you don't mind me saying as good as the Ford is, you've stepped it up here with The Peny-Darren build.

I think a piece of wire through the copper should work quite well for you.
I ran a piece of fencing wire through some pipe this afternoon.
It was a nice fit and I used the shank of a small drill bit to bend it around.
It worked very well.

Good luck with it!
I'm really enjoying the build.
Keep up the great work.

Cheers
Trev.

Trevor,

Thanks for your kind words. Thanks for you work on looking at the bending of copper tube. I will be doing it the way you said tomorrow. As far as the Ford is concerned - I have put much more focus on getting things done accurately and not rushing. I think I have also come to realise there is no tie limit. I give you credit for any of my improvement with your work on the Indian - unbelievable !!!!

Thanks again.

Keith

Keith I just remembered that I have a set of THESE (bending springs) which I found very good don't know if you have a supplier of them over there

Originally Posted by Dalboy

Keith I just remembered that I have a set of THESE (bending springs) which I found very good don't know if you have a supplier of them over there

Derek,

Thanks. Sure that Repco or other engineering suppliers have them

Regards

Keith

Thanks Trevor, I tried your suggestion of using wire inside the copper tubing when bending. No kinks over a very tight radius. Took some photos.


Today worked on fiddly stuff at the front end for the main piston shaft. Made and fitted piston flange seals. The directional control linkages were made and fitted. These are situated behind the guard plate which was also made and fitted today.

Keith

Honestly Keith it just keeps getting better!
Glad the wire and copper worked out for you.
Cheers mate keep it coming.
Trev.

This afternoon I decided to work on the smoke stack and get the locomotive looking like a real locomotive. The Peny-Darren had a segmented stack which was riveted together. I am using PVC pipe, elbows and joiners to make my stack. The beauty is that standard size PVC pipe and fittings are the exact correct size for my 1/5th scale of the prototype. To get the correct equi-spaced rivet placings, I got some paper and measured around the circumference. I then divided the length up for rivet spacings and stuck it back on with sticky tape to act as a guide for my drilling. I put hacksaw cuts in the joiners to replicate lap joints. I araldited a wooden section internally on the lower section of the stack where I will be attaching the steam exhaust piping from the piston exhaust cylinder. I used PVC glue to join the elbow, pipe and joiners. I used 1/8" aluminium mushroom rivets (not easy to come by). I am a little disappointed how they look - think the mushroom head is a fraction big - what do you think ?. These have been araldited in. The stack is just sitting in location at the moment (not secured). I think it will look a lot better when I give it couple of coats of "cast iron" paint.

Regards

Keith

Still looking great mate.
As you say give the stack a coat of paint before deciding about the rivets!
If you do think in the end there a bit to large, I've had really good results
with old dressmaking pins.
The heads on some of the older ones are in the range of 2.5mm.
They look quite good as rivets with a coat of paint.
Their just a bit smaller an the 1/8" or 3.175mm rivets you have now.

Cheers

Rivets will probably look better once painted.

I have just started reading this thread and am fascinated with the detail you are putting in.

Re axles - I wonder if the original had a couple of dishes in the boiler to allow for a through axle rather than the stubs you have chosen to use.

Keep up the good work.

Originally Posted by Repliconics

Still looking great mate.
As you say give the stack a coat of paint before deciding about the rivets!
If you do think in the end there a bit to large, I've had really good results
with old dressmaking pins.
The heads on some of the older ones are in the range of 2.5mm.
They look quite good as rivets with a coat of paint.
Their just a bit smaller an the 1/8" or 3.175mm rivets you have now.

Cheers

Hi Trevor,

Thanks for your tips.

I have just been on the website - "Blists Hill - Ironbridge" which has a video of the Peny-Darren replica running. Looking closely at the rivet heads on this running version eases my mind a bit. I would say the actual head size is 25mm +, - my size is 6mm or 30mm in prototype dimension (5 times my scaled version). We will see how it looks painted, but now am pretty confident that it will look OK. I think the rivet against the white PVC exacerbates the rivet head size.

Thanks

Keith