Results 136 to 150 of 197
-
19th May 2020, 09:24 PM #136
Looking good Keith. Just need the axle box covers to fit over the bearing. (Perhaps you could have KH cast in them.)
With the brakes just remember that your best friend gravity is what causes the brakes to release. With the rigging rods and bars should be in tension when applied.
-
19th May 2020 09:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
20th May 2020, 09:35 AM #137GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Thanks Kevin,
Have already made the bearing covers but may look at a casting insignia. Top idea. Thanks
Regards
Keith
-
20th May 2020, 05:30 PM #138GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Hi All,
I have completed the second bogie and then got onto the work of creating casting marks on the bearing covers. As suggested by Kevin (Handyjack) I have used my initials as the casting marks on the covers. Takes time but it does add a bit of extra detail and should look a bit more authentic when I paint with my "cast iron" paint.
109.jpg
Regards
Keith
-
20th May 2020, 07:21 PM #139
-
20th May 2020, 08:37 PM #140
x 10++
The person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
-
20th May 2020, 08:39 PM #141
Axle box covers make it look complete. Like the KH casting.
-
24th May 2020, 05:44 PM #142GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Hi All,
Continuing work on the tender bogies.
The rear bogie has brakes on all wheels. The front bogie has no brakes - so it is easier.
The brakes are held together by 6.3mm aluminium rod - turned and threaded at the ends to 4mm - the nut retains the brake shoe. The brake shoes are retained to the bogie frame by 4mm rods and fabricated 6.3mm joiners I made up.
110.jpg
I have found a different type of spray paint for anyone who needs to get a bright gold finish. (It is particularly good on metal). It is Dulux dura max "Bright Gold". The good thing is that it is quick drying and the paint doesn't tarnish when handled. It cost me $20 a can at Bunnings.
111.jpg
Regards
Keith
-
26th May 2020, 04:09 PM #143GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Hi All,
I have been working on the tender bogies and sub frame. I am really happy how it is coming together. Because of my manufacturing method - I am going to have to dismantle the bogies and paint the wheels, bearings, springs and entire sub frame and then permanently assemble these before I get onto the next step of the tender - the upper assembly.
I have been able to construct the main locomotive section so that I can dismantle it entirely to paint and then reconstruct permanently.
The locomotive and tender frame together measure just over 2 meters. I think my next build may have to be a small tank locomotive or even a shay if I can get enough details. (Running out of display shelving once this loco is complete)
112.jpg
Regards
Keith
-
26th May 2020, 08:29 PM #144
Coming together nicely.
Puffing Billy railway museum at Menzies Creek Menzies Creek Museum - Puffing Billy has both a Shay and a Climax engine. The latter is operative. (Unfortunately not currently open like most museums.) While I understand that it is not close to you, it might be a bit more accessible than going overseas to see an example.
-
31st May 2020, 03:48 PM #145GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Hi All,
Pulled the bogies apart and painted all the components. Now the tender sub frame and bogies are pretty much complete. I have to add steps to the tender frame on both sides as this was the access to the locomotive cabin. Then I can get moving on the tender itself.
The "channel iron" around the top section of the frame I cut out of 19mm thick pine using the table saw and then chiseled and sanded.
I have made the bogies and frame so I can still dismantle if I really have to.
I have used British Paints "Domino" as my colour for the cast iron components. I think this is the closest colour I can get to cast iron. I use a "dabbing" method of painting using cheap artist brushes. This tends to give the cast iron grain effect. All components were given 4 coats of paint.
I like the red colour of the wheels which is prototype for this locomotive and tender. The paint is British Paints "Sassy Red". I get sample pots generally for my builds which works out pretty cheap. They are generally 250ml but if you are lucky, Bunnings sometimes have 500ml sample pots.
113.jpg
Regards
Keith
-
6th June 2020, 05:34 PM #146GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Hi All,
I have continued to work on the tender of this locomotive.
The tender consists of the main water tan, which surrounds where the timber is stored to fire the boiler. This locomotive has rounded corners so I needed to figure out the best method of getting the correct radius of each corner.
I had some thick oak boards that I had been given (50mm thick). I cut these to 50mm square blanks and then turned between centres on the wood lathe.
114.jpg
I then made up a fixture for the table saw so I could support the round blank and cut a little proud of the centre line.
116.jpg
I then cut them again at the same setting to give me a rounded quarter that is now one of 6 rounded corners of the tender.
117.jpg
I then made up the famework for the sides of the tender. The frame is 3mm recessed from the rounded corner - so the 3mm MDF cladding is flush with the rounded end.
These tenders had plenty of rivets - so I have used 2.5mm decking nails (the head looks like a rivet head) as my "rivets". Time consuming cutting the nails but worth the effort I think.
Next step is to frame up the back of the tender and then clad it.
118.jpg
Regards
Keith
-
6th June 2020, 08:08 PM #147
I see you are getting around to your tender tank.
For a moment I thought you were cutting the fuel for the tender but I see it is only the corners. For the fuel, just look what is in the garden. Cut to length and split.
Looking good as always.
-
6th June 2020, 08:23 PM #148GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
-
11th June 2020, 05:28 PM #149GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Torquay
- Posts
- 4,422
Hi All,
Rivets, rivets and more rivets - hundreds and hundreds of them. I use 2.5mm decking nails as my rivets. Cut them to the length with wire cutters. They are an interference fit in the holes so no need to araldite in position.
The hand wheel for the rear tender brakes is an old "G" Scale locomotive wheel I machined in the lathe. Coming together now.
Next step is the number 147 on the sides of the tender. They used very large numbers. Will make them out of MDF and then hand sand them down to under 1mm thick.
119.jpg
Regards
Keith
-
11th June 2020, 10:17 PM #150
I guess that building the tank was riveting.
At least you did not not need to heat them up red hot and then bead the end over with an air hammer.
Its the detail that makes all the difference.
Similar Threads
-
Locomotive
By choof in forum SCALE MODELLINGReplies: 14Last Post: 27th September 2019, 12:51 PM -
ANI Perkins Ross Air Compressor
By node105 in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERYReplies: 7Last Post: 9th January 2019, 08:23 PM -
Perkins 4108 wanted - Brisbane
By Nuggerto in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRINGReplies: 4Last Post: 19th September 2009, 09:26 AM -
Remington 1863
By classic arms in forum WOODCARVING AND SCULPTUREReplies: 6Last Post: 10th November 2006, 08:53 PM -
Remington 1863 serial no 1863 3
By classic arms in forum WOODWORK PICSReplies: 0Last Post: 18th August 2006, 02:19 PM