Results 46 to 60 of 1535
Thread: 2/3 scale Indian Straight Four.
-
10th December 2013, 08:34 PM #46
I had a good day working on the engine.
I've started to add some detail to the top half of the case.
Here's some photo's that show the difference some detailing and primer makes to the basic shape.
a1.jpg
This first photo show's the area as it was in a simple blocked out form, no real detail just a basic layout.
IMG_1239.jpg
Here I've added the engine mount, a platform for the magneto drive shaft, and a recess.
The recess is formed with a piece of PVC, as is the engine mount.
IMG_1248.jpg
Primer brings it all together.
I'll keep working this way right over the case, applying detail by either added to or taking away from the basic shape.
With a little luck when it's done it should look something like an Indian Straight Four Crankcase.
Trevor.
-
10th December 2013 08:34 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
10th December 2013, 09:01 PM #47Skwair2rownd
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Dundowran Beach
- Age
- 76
- Posts
- 19,922
More amazed than ever!!!
-
10th December 2013, 09:52 PM #48
That MDF and filler work together beautifully. As soon as the paint goes on, it looks like a metal casting.
You're tempting me to try something like this, instead of just all timber.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
10th December 2013, 10:42 PM #49
Don't forget the PVC!
When I first started building this kind of thing I wasn't a fan of MDF.
Lets face it, it's little more than glued sawdust or glorified cardboard at best.
But as you can see I'm a convert.
You can bend and twist it like there's no tomorrow with a bit of steam.
Bodyfiller sticks to it like something on your shoe you wish wasn't there.
A lot of the time I use the bodyfiller as glue.
As for being easy to work with the only power tools I've used making the engine,
are my trusty bandsaw and a drill press.
And the very best thing of all, the MDF and PVC are FREE for the local recyclers
Cheers.
-
10th December 2013, 10:53 PM #50
-
10th December 2013, 11:24 PM #51
It will do the job all day long.
The thinnest MDF I've come across was 2mm.
You can sand it down as much as you like.
The best thing about steaming MDF is it dries in place.
But if you've sanded it down don't apply steam to the raw side.
MDF and water "Not Good"
At 1/12 scale it should work fine.
Grab a bit of 3mm MDF and hold it above a pot of boiling water for a minute or so.
Hold it high enough that water doesn't splash on it.
Turn it over a few times and bend it.
I think you'll find it very handy in your work.
-
10th December 2013, 11:33 PM #52
-
10th December 2013, 11:43 PM #53
Stunning work, simply stunning.....
-
11th December 2013, 12:07 AM #54
A bit of a hint, if I may...
A common misconception with steaming timber is to think the 'moisture' is doing the work- actually, it is the heat...
The reason steam is used is that there is virtually zero risk of 'burning' the timber...
But, if you follow my drift, then with care you can use a hot air gun to bend timber...
The critical factor is the temperature of the air *must not* scold the timber.
With practice you will be astonished at how plastic and malleable timber can be coaxed into.
Following on from this- I'm quite sure you would get a lot more useful shapes and parts from the PVC pipe, if you introduced a little heat to the pipe. Again avoid scalding the pipe, but with an adjustable hot air gun you can really soften the end of a peice of PVC pipe and it becomes very, very malleable. Have a bucket and rag handy- you can quench the PVC to keep the desired shape, or wrap the wet rag around the pipe to prevent the heat travelling along the pipe- and avoiding undesirable results.
As a starter, cut a peice of PVC pipe long enough to hold- say 300 mm and then heat the end of the PVC about 40-50 mm on one end. Then approaching on a 45 dag angle roll the soft end over the cold end and then gently push it on. You will now have an expanded bell end on the PVC and have formed a joint. Doing the same thing on other formers- say a beer bottle and pulled to one side will give you a nice flared end.
Try it and see how you go. I'm sure your imagination will open many possibilities...
I can see an improved method here in forming the manifolds- instead of buckets of body filler.... You can cut a slot or a '+' in the plastic and with heat and coaxing open out the 'flaps' to create some amazing shapes- quickly and easily.... And with a former- repeatedly....
Another option is cast epoxy. I build boats and from that there is another whole world of lightweight sandable fillers, finishing compounds that would (might) make your models a whole lot easier...
Rather than Bondo, I'd use 'super glue' to set the part then using a small shaper, some lightweight epoxy filler to form the corner fillet. Just before it's set- you run the former over it with a little acetone and you'll leave a surface that won't require any or very little sanding...
Anyway, I've babbled enough...
Love your work!
-
11th December 2013, 07:56 AM #55
Thanks Andrew Kool stuff.
There's a lot of good info there, that I'll be giving a try.
At the moment to modify the shape of PVC I just use either a candle flame or a gas stove.
Depending on the size of pipe at the time.
Sometime ago I built a Napier Billycart.
IMG_0661.jpg
The Goose Neck Horn was made from PVC Pipe and Bodyfiller.
IMG_0677.jpg
The goose's neck I bent over the stove.
The tapered tube which is about three feet long was made the same way.
By rolling and drawing it out above the flame.
After I got the shape I was looking for I bound it in cord.
IMG_0666.jpg IMG_0675.jpg
I bent the exhaust pipes the same way.
I use a ton of super glue but sometimes if the surface is uneven or I wont the time
to move a part around, I'll use the bodyfiller as a glue.
Thanks again you've given me some stuff to think about, the epoxy in particular.
Glad your enjoying the build.
Trevor.
-
11th December 2013, 08:03 AM #56
-
11th December 2013, 02:15 PM #57
Cheers Trevor,
You've clearly got a pretty good grasp of manipulating pipe with heat. When you get the opportunity- think about piercing the pipe whilst hot and drawing it out- just another tool in the arsenal.
I'm loving the build. You clearly have a gift, or at the very least a special talent.
I'm quite sure you could make a career out of your work. Movie models being an obvious starter.
Regardless I certainly thank you for sharing your work here....
-
12th December 2013, 07:06 PM #58
Over the last couple of days I've been working on the top half of the crankcase.
I've made some good progress with the detailing of the left hand side around the gearbox.
IMG_1238.jpg
The picture above is what the area looked when it was only blocked out.
IMG_1265.jpg IMG_1266.jpg
I've reshaped the flywheel housing, straightened the back of the gearbox, and blended
the two together.
The boss has been added to the gearbox for the kick-starter.
IMG_1259.jpg IMG_1269.jpg
I've still got the engine mount to add along with a few other small parts.
Hopefully it will be done tomorrow, then I can get stuck into the other side.
IMG_1267.jpg
I'm really looking forward to being able to mount the barrel's on the case.
Cheers.
-
13th December 2013, 02:31 PM #59
I see you doing it, the photos clearly show what you're doing, step, by step, yet I still cannot believe the finished painted part is merely MDF and Bondo...
Somehow, it takes on a life of its own...
Extraordinary!!!
-
14th December 2013, 11:22 AM #60
Thanks Andrew,
It's funny how it all comes together.
Just by modifying basic shapes you can build a far more complex one.
I know you've got a pretty good handle on exactly how I'm doing it.
But just in case anyone's a little unsure, this is pretty much it.
I make a form using basic shapes, that gives me the approximate scale and area.
From there I modify each of the shapes to get them closer to the original.
IMG_1234.jpg
The flywheel housing started as a half circle that was under sized.
The actual housing looks more like someone has stepped on it.
Flatting the top and pushing the sides out.
IMG_1274.jpg
So to get that look I added material to the half circle I originally made.
You can see from the lamination lines were the extra MDF has been added.
IMG_1273.jpg
After it's been shaped back to the required form, I give it skim coat of bodyfiller.
That gives me a good surface to paint on.
That's pretty much how I build everything, by starting with a basic form and adding to
it's structure until I get the desired shape.
Then I blend it into the next until the part is complete.
Best I get back to it.
Glad you're enjoying it.
Cheers.
Similar Threads
-
How straight does a straight edge need to be?
By Sir Stinkalot in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 20Last Post: 8th November 2013, 10:41 AM -
Aluminium straight edge - not so straight
By Dengue in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 28Last Post: 7th November 2010, 09:54 AM -
How straight is your straight edge?
By echnidna in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 17Last Post: 5th November 2005, 10:12 AM -
3m straight edge - or how straight can one get angle iron
By burn in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 10Last Post: 16th February 2004, 07:06 AM