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  1. #196
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    Mar 2013
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    St. Helens Tasmania
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    It's never dull watching someone develop their own style when their level of craftsmanship is already so high!.
    Always a joy seeing your work as it progress' mate.

    Cheers
    Trev.

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  3. #197
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Hi All,

    Assembled the coupling rods on one side today. I added grease points on all the bearings joints. I was not totally happy with painting my locomotive with the colour of the coupling rods they have at the museum. Theirs are painted white. Did a bit of research of old photos of Victorian Railways steam locomotives. I found one that had the coupling rods painted in the livery of the rest of the locomotive. All others I found were grey steel colour. Any way I painted my coupling rods grey so they don't stand out too much. First coat. I re-attached the brake shoes to see how it all looks.

    Still only have the piston cylinders clamped in position as I still need to dismantle later on.

    Regards

    Keith

    coupling rods first side.jpg

  4. #198
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    Nov 2008
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    Canterbury UK
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    Now the rods are painted the chassis is really starting to look the part. I think you went right with the colour of them. Great job as always Keith

  5. #199
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Hi All,

    Have now done the second side of the coupling rods and fitted together. I secured the piston cylinders to the chasis. I have machined off all the axles so they are now the correct length. Shortened the split pins so they now look almost prototypical length. Everything is pretty much in correct position but everything is still removable and will be like this until the model is complete. You never know when you have to dismantle to be able to fit other components. Now I can start working on other components of the chasis. Next will be the cylinder condensate stop cocks. I want to get all of the lower level components done before starting on boiler, cabin etc.

    Regards

    Keith

    Both sides done.jpg

  6. #200
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    Mar 2013
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    St. Helens Tasmania
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    You been reading the dictionary again mate?
    "almost prototypical"
    That's a very flash way of saying "not quite right".
    But it is looking "Fantastic" meaning Way Kool Mate!.

    Cheers
    Trev.

  7. #201
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Yeah Trev. Have to make larger diameter split pins. Do you like it without the clamps? Thanks for your comments. Keith.

  8. #202
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Probably good that I don't work for anybody any more (other than Cathie) or the boss would ask me what the heck have I been doing ??? It has taken me 3 days to machine up the components and then fabricate and fit the cylinder cocks to the locomotive. Lots of fiddly machining work (made out of aluminium) and very tight fits to locate into position - but I am happy with the outcome. I have also fitted the cylinder mufflers (I think that is what they are - Kevin ??). Made then up before I went on holidays. Trying to get as many components as possible done on the chasis before I move up higher.

    Regards

    Keith

    cylinder cocks.jpg cylinder work.jpg

  9. #203
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    se Melbourne
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    62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith_1 View Post
    Probably good that I don't work for anybody any more (other than Cathie) or the boss would ask me what the heck have I been doing ??? It has taken me 3 days to machine up the components and then fabricate and fit the cylinder drain cocks to the locomotive. That would probably be about the same if you were working on a 12":1' loco. Lots of fiddly machining work (made out of aluminium) and very tight fits to locate into position - but I am happy with the outcome. I have also fitted the cylinder mufflers (I think that is what they are - Kevin ??). Made then up before I went on holidays. Trying to get as many components as possible done on the chasis before I move up higher.

    Regards

    Keith

    cylinder cocks.jpg cylinder work.jpg
    "cylinder mufflers"? I am pretty sure you are referring to "Bye Pass Valves". Short of quoting four paragraphs from the Victorian Railways Handbook on the Locomotive, the "Bye Pass Valves serve two purposes, to release excessive pressure in case of condensation or priming so the cylinder is not damaged and to open the cylinder to atmosphere when the regulator is shut. This will allow the locomotive to roll more freely.

  10. #204
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
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    65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith_1 View Post
    Trying to get as many components as possible done on the chassis before I move up higher.

    Regards

    Keith
    You're not dying are you?

  11. #205
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    You're not dying are you?

    Gee Dallas - I hope not. I meant that I was working on the lower level of the locomotive and trying to get as much done before I get onto the upper (boiler and tank) level

    Thanks for your concern


    Keith

  12. #206
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Hi All,

    I have now come to the point where I cannot do a lot more on the chasis until I get other components made and begin fitting them into position - such as the front sand boxes, boiler components and side water tanks.
    I have been making up the cast support angles (you can probably make them out in the corners between the chasis and the front and rear buffer plates.
    I extended the front of the chasis to bring it up to the proper scale length. I had been working with it shorter as i found it easier to work on when the length is shorter. The overall length of my locomotive at this stage is 1700mm (or if you like imperial - just under 67 inches). When the buffers and couplings are made and added it will give an overall length of over 1850mm. (Dallas - when complete - may need a hand to lift it
    I have put in a photo with the old VB Gold beer can (horrible stuff) for comparison.

    My next step is to make up the top plate of the chasis so I can start making up fixture points for the boiler, water tanks and cabin. The real debatable point is when to start securing chasis components in their final position so they don't move.

    So far I have put in about 300 hours - hard to guesstimate the eventual number of hours in future. The cabin controls will be a fantastic challenge

    Good Fun

    Keith

    chasis near comp1.jpg chasis near comp2.jpg chasis near comp3.jpg

  13. #207
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Hi Guys,

    You probably won't notice much of a difference from the previous lot of photos, but I have made some significant inroads (I hope).
    I started to work on the top support plate of the chasis and found it a bit "difficult" because not all things were secured in their final position. So I made a "Captain's Pick" (seems to be the flavour of the month at the moment - hope mine is correct) and dismantled everything. Gave another coat of paint and then spray painted the wheels and piston cylinders with clear satin acrylic. I don't want a full gloss and I wanted some protection of my parts. I then re-assembled everything on the chasis and all is now locked in position. If I need to pull apart for any reason - there will be some demolition and remaking of parts. The split pins are now correct in length. The brakes are set in the released position. I have made up T support brackets above the front top end of the piston cylinder. This will support the plate that covers the top of the piston cylinder. The axles ends are painted the same "Indian Red" colour as the wheels - which is prototype for this locomotive.

    Take Care

    Regards

    Keith

    Chasis complete.jpg

  14. #208
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    Mar 2013
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    St. Helens Tasmania
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    Looking Great Mate!.

    Cheers
    Trev.

  15. #209
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    For my money Keith, it sure looks very realistic....well done thus far sir...cheers, Peter

  16. #210
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    Nov 2008
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    Canterbury UK
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    Looking great Keith, will you do the buffers and coupler assemblies before you start on the top section

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