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Thread: Axle Pegs

  1. #1
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    Default Axle Pegs

    Looking for a bit of help using 1/4 inch axle pegs. Do you lubricate them at all, before assembly, to ensure nice smooth operation?
    They are a nice comfortable fit, dry, but I am suspicious of moister interference.
    If you do use a lubricant, what is best?
    Thanking you in anticipation.
    Cheers, Fred

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  3. #2
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    Never found the need to lubricate mine as they always seem to run OK as long as you put a thin piece of cardboard spacer between the head and the head of the axle pin when gluing once in position remove the cardboard that should leave a very small gap as not to allow the wheel to bind

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    G'Day Fred,
    I too don't use lube on the axle pegs...
    But I do add flat washers on both sides of the wheel...
    Stainless steel on the outside and nylon on the inside [bought at the Nut & Bolt Engineers Supplies shop not at a hardware shop]....
    Cheers, crowie

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    If I have a fit that is "snug", apart from a washer / spacer between the wheel and the axle, I rub some dry plain candle / bees wax on that part of the axle-peg in contact with the wheel. Otherwise never had a problem with moisture expansion of the axle peg restricting movement of the wheel.
    Geoff

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    Thank you Dalboy, crowie and Tiny Tool for your help. Will attach some photos when they are put together. Cheers, Fred

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    Hi Dareen, The answer would depend on the use of the item in question. For kiddie toys some wax/beeswax as TinyT' suggested could not go wrong, however, I would question the robustness of a 1/4" axle on any kiddie toys.

    If it is a display "toy"... I don't encourage movement (well maybe a tad in wheels). The more moving parts you have the greater the chance of a heavy handed, inquisitive guest giving it a test run. You know the old adage of "Wet Paint"!!!... Is it really wet?

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    Couple of photos of the little train.
    I have problems trying to get the four wheels on the ground on a hard surface. Have measured pretty accurately and made a jig for the pedestal drill but still not right. Works OK on carpet. Any suggestions much appreciated.
    Cheers, Fred


    DSCF2062.jpgDSCF2064.jpg

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    Hi Fred, I'm not an expert in making "working" models so I'm sure you'll probably get better advice from other. But now that I'm here and before I cloud my brain with a ritual drink of vino, from a quick screening of my rapidly depleting grey matter, I would suggest to drill 3 holes (as close as possible to specification's location), place the 3 wheeler on a flat surface hold the 4th wheel, touching the surface, in place (without the peg) and mark the wheel's central position and then drill that one. You may need to use a similar procedure several times for your 6 wheeler...
    And if you decide to build an 8 wheeler.. you're onw your own buddy...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dareen View Post
    Couple of photos of the little train.
    I have problems trying to get the four wheels on the ground on a hard surface. Have measured pretty accurately and made a jig for the pedestal drill but still not right. Works OK on carpet. Any suggestions much appreciated.
    Cheers, Fred

    Magnificent job Fred, hours of fun, play and imagination there...

    To help get different wheels in link you can simply add a centre line to a page lining up the wheels centre holes then marking the outside diameter getting the difference on the centre heights for drilling...at least that's how I've done it in the past.. Cheers, crowie

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    Hello Alexkara, thank you for that tip to get the extra wheels at the right height. Sounds like a good plan and will try it for the next one. Will also try with the 6 wheeler then I will give the 8 wheeler a miss, I think.

    Hello crowie, thank you for your encouragement and your tip . Not quite sure how you mean with the line on the paper. I have made a jig using a bit of aluminium flat strap that I have drilled pretty accurately but they still get out of kilter. I suspect that my timber is not quite square which would throw the angle of the drilling out that little bit.

    Will try both plans and see if I can't improve my end results.

    Cheers, Fred

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dareen View Post
    Hello crowie, thank you for your encouragement and your tip . Not quite sure how you mean with the line on the paper. I have made a jig using a bit of aluminium flat strap that I have drilled pretty accurately but they still get out of kilter. I suspect that my timber is not quite square which would throw the angle of the drilling out that little bit.

    Cheers, Fred
    Maybe some pictures will help with my poor description....

    I've put them into a photo story in a pdf file....

    NOTE, I also always use brad points bits to drill this sort of hole.....
    Attached Files Attached Files

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    Fred, For my pennies worth, if you had unequal wheels like in a train, I would suggesting taking some time out and get a basic understanding of SketchUp... It's free and would do similar to what Crowie suggested but with a smaller margin for error. Sorry Crowie, not trying to "rain on your parade".

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexkara View Post
    ... get a basic understanding of SketchUp... It's free and would do similar to what Crowie suggested but with a smaller margin for error....

    PS.
    Determined to get you guys to use SketchUp...

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    When I drill the holes for the axles I use a drill press, as long as the toy chassis is flat and square I place the bottom of this against a fence so that when drilling all of the holes the all start at the right height. Also drill each hole separate and don't try to drill all the way through especially with a wider model as drill bits can flex during drilling and can tend to follow the grain in some cases.

    Remember to make sure the drill press table is square to the drill bit before any drilling commences

    It sounds like a lot but it does help

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    Quote Originally Posted by crowie View Post
    Maybe some pictures will help with my poor description....

    I've put them into a photo story in a pdf file....

    NOTE, I also always use brad points bits to drill this sort of hole.....
    Thanks crowie, now get the idea. Thank you for going to the 'extra', with photos, to explain your method. Cheers, Fred

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