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  1. #1
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    Cool Drill bit tray idea

    I cut the intersecting saw cuts as a guide but then drilled each place needed for that size bit, but not only that I drilled three holes all the same size in a group.
    Why you ask.
    So I can have a 1/4” brad bit and the 1/4” metal bit and an extra 1/4”hole so I can put any round dowel or what ever and be able to check for size.
    How many times have you pulled out a 1/4” drill bit to stick a dowel in to check it’s size, so why not have an open hole ready for the job.
    The tray also has both bits together so you can choose what size and type of bit you want and when you get ready to put it back the hole is open so no needing to search for the right place.
    You’ll notice the extra hole that I use to drill axle pegs has a peg in it so don’t have to think about it, just grab the bit for that hole size.
    I know I should remember this but my mind doesn’t work like that. [
    The sizes are in line with each other but a few only have two holes these are special sizes that I may not have a brad bit for.
    Here’s what I’m talking about.
    IMG_6167.jpgIMG_6168.jpg
    An Index Of My Model making Blogs on Lumber Jocks.
    http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/116729

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  3. #2
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    Many moons ago I made a drill bit stand not quite as large as yours as my bits were slightly closer together. I also used the same spacing between bits. Because I usually move my drill bit stands to where I'm working in my shed or elsewhere I found a large stand it took up a bit too much space and was also awkward to move around. I guess it depends on how much space you have and if and how often the stands are moved.

    I then made a number of smaller stands that better suit the drill sizes/types and made the spacings between bits <1/2" closer together and those <1/4" closer together still. This made for a more compact stand that could more easily be located and moved to the work when required.

    At work they use a very compact round bit stand with an ever decreasing spacing between the bits. The round shape make the smaller bits sizes (stamped on the stands) easy to read and also easy to remove the bits as a hand doesn't have to dive down in between other bits. I was going to remake smaller bit stands into round shapes but I ended up picking up a couple of round drill bit stands for bits <1/2 on ebay for next to nothing. These round stands house imperials of regular length (1/64th increments from 1/16 to 1/2",) and what I call a "shorts" set made from broken bits (1/64th increments from 3/16 to 1/2",) . The "shorts" are used for lathe work.

    Currently I still have home made wooden stands for
    Masonry bits
    MT metrics from 13 to 25 mm
    Metric reduced shanks from 13 t0 25 mm
    Router bits.

    I also have sets of brad points up to 1/2", imperial reduced shanks from 9/16 to 1", and metric from 1mm to 10 mm in 0.1 mm increments. These are still in their original box/stand. In recent times the latter are probably used more than all of the others combined probably because I now do more MW than WW.

  4. #3
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    I wish Fastcap would do a system for metric but I guess the idea does not work in the more simple metric.
    CHRIS

  5. #4
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    That's one nice case but $42 just for the case and over $120 for the case and all the drill bits.
    I know it would be handy and a great system for those with deep pockets but I like making my jigs and holders $.00.
    An Index Of My Model making Blogs on Lumber Jocks.
    http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/116729

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by htl View Post
    That's one nice case but $42 just for the case and over $120 for the case and all the drill bits.
    I know it would be handy and a great system for those with deep pockets but I like making my jigs and holders $.00.
    Blocks of wood and drill them using forstner bits

  7. #6
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    Just a lil somethin' that I saw this week that looks similar, but...is different? I kinda like it more...intersecting dadoes rather than bored holes.
    Each to their own of course

    https://youtu.be/WPQ__b27jyM
    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.

  8. #7
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    Yep that's a great project and has it's uses but won't handle the different drill sizes, it's more for router bits with all the same size shafts.
    Mine is more leaning to the model builder who is using a lot a small drill bits and dowels all day long.
    I just used the table saw to make the grid was easier than drawing them out by hand.

    One other thing to add.
    I bought a bunch a small drill bits [ 15 each] that came in a metal box and all the different sizes had their own place and the bits would only fit in their size space, works great
    but if you ever drop the box with the top open you'll have a job on your hands getting it all back into place, don't ask me how I know.

    So this is my set up for every day use if I drop it all stays together and ready to use.

    And as always there's a hundred way to do any thing this is what works for me with what tools I have.
    An Index Of My Model making Blogs on Lumber Jocks.
    http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/116729

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy View Post
    Just a lil somethin' that I saw this week that looks similar, but...is different? I kinda like it more...intersecting dadoes rather than bored holes.
    Each to their own of course

    https://youtu.be/WPQ__b27jyM
    I quite like the router bit trays he made with intersecting dadoes as blind holes in blocks of wood cause the bits to rust. Those trays would have air movement around the shank.
    Regards
    John

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by htl View Post
    I bought a bunch a small drill bits [ 15 each] that came in a metal box and all the different sizes had their own place and the bits would only fit in their size space, works great
    but if you ever drop the box with the top open you'll have a job on your hands getting it all back into place, don't ask me how I know.
    A vernier calliper will easily identify even the smallest of drill bits. One of my verniers has fractional 64ths read out which works for imperials.
    When I got my box of 3 to 0.4 mm drills the first thing I did was wrap each size in adhesive tape and write the size on the tape.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy View Post
    Just a lil somethin' that I saw this week that looks similar, but...is different? I kinda like it more...intersecting dadoes rather than bored holes.
    Each to their own of course

    https://youtu.be/WPQ__b27jyM
    Thanks for that RSG - best system I have seen for router bits. Drills I generally keep in the sets they come in as they are clearly labelled and easily transported.

    I can see me sorting out the router bits after Easter is over and I get some time to do a big reorganization prior to some serious projects over Winter.
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  12. #11
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    Looks great Bruce, well done.
    BUT you have too much patience for me, I'd muck it up too easy....
    Cheers, Peter

  13. #12
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    Great idea, and a lot of patience doing every drill hole 3 times. I was going to do the exact same thing, but also add another row, drilled deeper and wider so that I can hammer in a nut so I can test for bolt threads, ie metric and imperial, I'm forever finding 1/4"nuts and M6 bolts and vise versa, and would same me a lot of trouble not having to make a trip to Bunnings to use their bolt guide.

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