Thread: GNR Stirling Locomotive

It really comes alive doesn't it. Such great work mate.

All I can say is it's O! SO!! NICE!!!

Hi All,

Continue to work on the front of the locomotive.

I needed to make a pneumatic pipe with a 90 degree elbow and the top have about a 130 degree bend. I experimented trying to bend aluminium tubing but this ended up in frustration

I have put together a little sketch on how I overcame the problem if anyone is interested. It worked out well. I can now truly come to grips on why Trevor used bodyfiller so much. A bit messy in the start but gee it really forgiving and as long as you take time with the sanding - it gives a good end result.

This is the explanation and my elbows before I primed them

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I made up the pipe saddle out of aluminium tube and flat and then filled the bends with bodyfiller and sanded off and primed.

The pneumatic coupler was turned out of pine and the section between the clips cut out with a hacksaw. Then filed and sanded.

The piston cylinder retainer screws and bolts have been added, but everything is still removable to allow for painting at a later date.

The next item is the main coupling hook assembly which also has a turnbuckle arrangement on it.

The photo shows my pneumatic pipe and elbows in place at the front of the locomotive.

Loving this loco

Regards

Keith

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Keith, I like your solution to your problem.
Not sure if "pneumatic" is the right term for the vacuum hose for the brakes. The end will need to sit on a dummy head, the vacuum will retain it there. Yes I know this "sucks" but you will notice that there is no isolating cock to terminate the "pipe".
Keep steaming along.

No isolating cock so that brakes could not be disabled and as the vacuum releases the brake, if the carriages broke away the brakes are automatically applied.

The vacuum holds the brakes off, (and the hose on the dummy coupler). By reducing the vacuum the brakes are applied. Any breakages - holes in hoses, pipes or complete separation of the hoses - as in train coming apart - and the brakes are automatically applied.

In the early days the brakes, air or vacuum, were non automatic. The problem with this was that if the train broke apart there were then no brakes on any of the carriages.
In Britain it was not until the Regulation of Railway Act, 1889 was passed that passenger trains were required to be fitted with automatic continuous brakes. It was not until much later (mid 20th century) that goods trains were fitted with continuous brakes.

Hi All,

I have been working on the front coupler hook and other ancillary items on the front of the loco.

I sketched up the general shape of the hook and then glued the sketch onto aluminium plate and cut out roughly with a hacksaw and the filed and sandpapered to the shape I wanted. Sandpaper does work pretty well on aluminium - getting the rough edges off and pretty smooth.

The linkages on the hook assembly are cut out of 1mm aluminium sheet. Had to machine up some bushes to get the correct width between the linkages. The turnbuckle handle is made out of 2mm wire that is then drilled into and araldited to a 5mm nut.
The shackle and screw pin are joined by a piece of pine that was shaped and then drilled with holes at 90 degrees to each other.

This is about all I can do to the front of the loco at this stage.

Need to make up the main wheel splash guards and side frame along the length of the loco so I can then really start with some assembly.

All the Best

Keith

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Looking great as per normal Keith you certainly have me hook on this build

Originally Posted by Dalboy

Looking great as per normal Keith you certainly have me hook on this build

Thanks Derek,

As I have said before - the British really set the benchmark on beautiful steam locomotives. I am envious that you have so many fantastic locos in your museums and also operational.

Regards

Keith

PS - had to get back in on edit mode - just realised the pun you used - good stuff

Hi All,

In a previous post - I mentioned that I was doing some experimentation on how to make the Splash Guards for the main drive wheels.

Today I worked on it in earnest.

I had made up a form out of some Tassie oak that I had - this is the inside diameter of the splash guard. I cut some 150mm ID PVC pipe to the width I required for the splash guard and then drilled around the circumference for some holding nails that would maintain the shape of the form.
I then cut a section out of the PVC pipe so that I would have the correct length for the guard. I then put the PVC pipe onto the form and hammered in one nail. I then used a hot air paint stripping gun to soften the PVC and as I proceeded along nailed the PVC to the form until the whole lot was done. Then quenched the lot in cold water. The shape came out pretty good.

Now looking at how to "weld" PVC Sheet to the outer section that I made above. I am playing around with scrap PVC and my electric soldering iron. The end result looks very promising at this stage

Regards

Keith

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You could have tried "steam" bending.

Part of the joy is working out solutions where there is no instruction book.

Look forward to your next post.

This is definitely worthy of a jaunt down to Torquay sometime! ))

Originally Posted by Keith_1

PS - had to get back in on edit mode - just realised the pun you used - good stuff

Originally Posted by Keith_1

Glad you made the connection Keith

Now looking at how to "weld" PVC Sheet to the outer section that I made above. I am playing around with scrap PVC and my electric soldering iron. The end result looks very promising at this stage

Regards

Keith

I use to use a liquid that you applied and it melted the parts together I will have to try and find it but I believe it was called MEK you apply it by holding the parts together them put the liquid along the joint and it wicks in and welds it.

Forgot to say the guard is looking good

AHH just found something the same different name have a look at THIS

Originally Posted by Dalboy

I use to use a liquid that you applied and it melted the parts together I will have to try and find it but I believe it was called MEK you apply it by holding the parts together them put the liquid along the joint and it wicks in and welds it.

Forgot to say the guard is looking good

AHH just found something the same different name have a look at THIS

Thanks Derek, I will definitely investigate this - most appreciated

Regards

Keith