Thread: GNR Stirling Locomotive

Originally Posted by crowie

The MEK Keith, I've bought before from the model railway supplies shop...

Also, I'm sure the "Junk Master" would be pleased with your venture into plastics for the model....Peter

AND the bog (Bodyfiller)

I may be sileny bit quietly enjoying the build

DaveTTC

Turning Wood into Art

Hi All,

More trials on the joins for the main drive wheel splash guards.

Well I couldn't find the "MEK" as suggested (thanks guys for the info) but I went to a plumbing supplies store (Reece's) and they were extremely helpful. I have found that when you say you are building a model at most Specialty Hardware places - they will go out of their way to help you - perhaps it is because normally they deal with building trades and this is something different.
Anyway, I took a couple of samples on what I wanted to join and the sales guys went online and then recommended "Bostik PVC Priming Fluid" and then "Bostik Pipe Cement (Type N)" He said this acted as a solvent type glue and would penetrate in pipe and flat PVC.
I looked up the Standard operation sheet online and it said to add the cement as soon as you have added the primer. Did this whilst the primer was still wet (with a brush that I will discard). I did this 2 hours ago. The Instructions say to leave for 24 hours - but me being the impatient person that I am - I tested the joins just now. I applied about 60 pounds of force on the joints - no movement or cracking - I am rapt.

Dallas - I will return the plastic welder soon - not need but thanks

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PS Costs are $7.50 per bottle

Do you think plumbers wait 24 minutes, let alone 24 hours? For pressure pipes may be, for waste, no.

Just remember, they are impossible to take apart latter. You will find that electricians use basically the same stuff for conduit.

Just one warning, the primer tends to stain surfaces so just be careful and perhaps have it sitting on a piece of scrap and have a rag handy.

Both the primer and the glue are available in clear if you don't want to have a coloured mess.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

Both the primer and the glue are available in clear if you don't want to have a coloured mess.

Yes, Now you mention it we used to the clear stuff from the electrical wholesaler....

Love to see it when a plan comes together with help from your friends.

Hi All,

I have found it interesting to work in different materials and see what can be done and what you end up destroying when working with something new.

The PVC for the wheel guards is coming up pretty well. I threw one lot away so getting a success rate of 66% isn't too bad - I think

I drew up the slots in the guard and then copied them on the printer (to ensure both sides are pretty much the same). I then glued the copies onto 3mm thick PVC sheet.

Then started on the slots. A forstner bit is probably not meant to drill PVC - but it's good. The top of the slot is a 3/4" drill, the bottom of the slot is a 5/8" drill. I then cut out the section between the holes with a wood chisel (leaving a fair bit to file off) I then filed the grooves so the holes align. Then used 80 grit sandpaper and the some wet/dry rub to get the edges nice and smooth. There is about 8 hours work in the grooves on the guard so far.

There is a photo of the original loco attached showing the guarding that I am working on at the moment. I am making up a second lot of arch sections as I don't think mine are long enough.

All the Best

Keith

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Looks like your PVC cement was a much better option than trying to weld it

Really excellent work mate.

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Looks like your PVC cement was a much better option than trying to weld it

Hi Dallas,

Yes my glue trial worked out really well. Haven't glued the covers to the arches yet. Need to get the positioning and curvature of the "step" guarding that goes along the length of the loco correct. I will have to make a jig to get the correct form as it runs past the main drive wheel and doesn't foul the mechanical drive components. Will then soften and form the PVC with the hot air gun and then glue the lot together. It's quite enjoyable working on something you have never done before - even if you muck it up.
Thanks for the lend of the hot air welder - I will get it back to you soon

Regards

Keith

Hi All,

Changed my mind on how I was going to make up the splashguard assembly. Decided that I had to make up the wheel covering section with the proper clearance on the drive mechanicals before I could start making up the "Running Boards" that are an integral part of the locomotive. This is one side and I will now start on the other to ensure they both have the same curve at the bottom of the guard and then I can start making up a jig that I can use as my form to soften and reshape the PVC "Running Board".

Bowls tomorrow so next work on the loco will be Sunday.

Regards

Keith

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My!!! What a big Irwin clamp you have. That must br a two man job

DaveTTC

Turning Wood into Art

For a moment there I thought I saw a wire line from the crosshead (little end) bearing, through the centre line of the driving axle to the footplate. But then noticed it was perhaps a bit of flat from the guard to the footplate.
As always looking like a full size engine rather than a model.