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  1. #1
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    Default Pannier Tank Locomotive

    Hello All,

    Time to start a new locomotive. I am starting to get a bit restricted in space, so building a smaller locomotive. Back to British. I am building a Pannier 0-6-0 Tank locomotive. I really like the look of this locomotive.

    ThePannier Tank steam locomotive wasbuilt by the Great Western Railway (GWR) and British Railways (BR) between 1929and 1950. With 863 built, they were the most prolific class of theGWR, and one of the most numerous classes of British steamlocomotive.
    Althoughofficially designated by GWR as "light goods and shuntingengines",theywere also used for passenger working on branch, suburban, and shortermainline journeys.

    My build will be 1/7th scale. It will measure 1360mm from front buffer to rear buffer. A big challenge will be inside the cabin. There are many controls, levers, gauges in a very confined space. Looking forward to it.

    Pannier Tank Loco.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

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  3. #2
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    Looks like I got an early seat on the train ride.

  4. #3
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    I'm on board for this build.
    Keith as an 0-6-0 this should be a bit simpler than the D4 4-6-2. The cab fittings would be very similar, but have a vacuum brake valves (that suck ) instead of Westinghouse compressed air brake valves and all the associated fittings and gauges.
    Beautiful curves that are almost . The GWR pannier is a classic engine and I know your build will bring out the best.

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    I'll bring the POP CORN Looks like an interesting train,
    Always love seeing projects from the different areas where they did things just a little bit different than I'm used to.
    An Index Of My Model making Blogs on Lumber Jocks.
    http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/116729

  6. #5
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    Hi Bruce,

    Did you want a picture inside the cab ?

    Here is some of the information I will be working off

    pannier footplate1.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

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    Just a plain simple loco cab. OK for me any way.

    Same fittings as the D4, just that some of them are different.

    You still have a fire hole door, gauge glass, lubricator, brake valve, and other valves. Reversing lever and damper controls. Just do what you have done before, take it step by step.

    It is always amazing when you invite someone onto the footplate, particularly if they have a kid with them and they say what a lot of valves. As you know what each of them do, and most of the time they are only turned on at the start of the day and off at the end, it is no big deal.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handyjack View Post
    Just a plain simple loco cab. OK for me any way.

    Same fittings as the D4, just that some of them are different.

    You still have a fire hole door, gauge glass, lubricator, brake valve, and other valves. Reversing lever and damper controls. Just do what you have done before, take it step by step.

    It is always amazing when you invite someone onto the footplate, particularly if they have a kid with them and they say what a lot of valves. As you know what each of them do, and most of the time they are only turned on at the start of the day and off at the end, it is no big deal.
    Thanks for your expertise Kevin. It's always appreciated.

    Thanks and Regards Keith

  9. #8
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    Hi All,

    On a number of the locomotives I have built - I have tried to get a photo or a sketch of the locomotive blown up to the size that my finished loco will be. This gives me a reference point to ensure that I am retaining my scale. It is quite easy to wander a bit off scale. I have found that using aluminium gives the strength and allows to work better to scale in your structural components.

    I go to a industrial photocopier in Geelong and he scales up and prints out my locomotive to the scale I want. Costs me $25 for the copy laminated, but because it generally takes a year to complete the locomotives - I figure it is worth it in the long run. This locomotive printout is 1360mm from buffer to buffer.

    1.jpg

    I have started working on the locomotive sub frame and the photo shows cross referencing the frame to the photocopy. It is really helpful in ensuring wheel bearing locations have been marked out correctly.

    2.jpg

    Keep safe

    Regards

    Keith

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    1360mm buffer to buffer (or over buffers), almost an aid to social distancing here (1500mm).

    Definitely the way to go with the plans having them at 1:1 and then laminated. You have made a start with the frames. Well done.

  11. #10
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    Hi All,

    Slow work on the loco. I have made the 2 sides of the sub frame and am incorporating the mainwheel leaf springs into my main wheel bearing retainers.

    3.jpg 5.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

  12. #11
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    Hi All,

    I have been doing some woodturning to make up the main inner and outer blanks for my locomotive wheels. The inner section is 3mm narrower than the outer rim. This accounts for the 3mm hub in the centre section. The centre section is a slide fit in the outer rim

    6.jpg 7.jpg

    I marked out the 14 spokes and the counterweights on the centre section

    8.jpg

    The spokes were cut out on the bandsaw and then the inner hub section filed smooth

    9.jpg 10.jpg

    I then made up the wheel counterweights and then glued the inner to the outer. They will now get a good file and sand.

    11.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

  13. #12
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    They look good Keith.
    I suspect the time and patience to make them takes a precision craftsman like yourself.
    Cheers Peter

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    Excellent work Keith true craftsman

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    Hi All,

    Lots of filing and sanding of the wheels. I use an automotive spray primer on all of my locomotives. It makes an excellent painting base when finish painting the locomotive.

    I have also started to put together the chasis. I have made up the bearing blocks for the locomotive axles.

    Tomorrow I will start machining up the locomotive axles out of 25mm solid round aluminium on my metal lathe.

    12.jpg

    Regards

    Keith

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    Hi All,

    Machined up the main axles out of solid aluminium.

    Have also made up the 6 brake assemblies for the individual wheels. I lashed out over the last months of shutdown and purchased a milling machine. I used the machine to mill the brake arms. The brake shoes are made from pine whilst the attachment to the chasis is machined out of aluminium and tapped to 4mm to accommodate the securing bolt.

    13.jpg 14.jpg
    Machining the arms

    Regards

    Keith

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