Thread: Small Parts

I don't know why I haven't got one of those either, but I will have tomorrow.

I will own one in an hour or so
Thanks Bret

ok..Bret...I've been scratchin' my head for 2 days trying to figure out how this setup is better than your detail miter box and razor saw. To me it's a giant plank and a huge, rough cutting blade that can wander?? I guess I'm missing something. PS...I just finally got a true razor saw to go with my shop made mini miter box...and I'm lovin' it...so really confused over this setup. Kinda like peeling an onion with an axe...LOL!

I have something very similar,a bit smaller, for cutting pen blanks. The only modification you might consider would be a sacrificial block where the blade meets the fence.

I've been using the mitre attachment but at time missed the mark & had to recut;
this setup would allow better setting up / lining up before the cutting.
Well done again Bret.
Cheers, crowie

Wolf,

Its not that its better but its faster. And for me more accurate as one side of my miter box broke(stupid plastic). For the real small stuff like 1/8" dowel the miter box might work better. The blade doesn't wander on such a small cut. If you have a smaller blade like less than 3/8" you can get a smooth cut.

Bret

Thx for the info Bret! I understand better now. Right now my little antique B&D bandsaw is a piece of ca-ca! I've ordered two bandsaw books so I can try and fine tune it some more, but I'll probably end up with the little 9" Skil bandsaw for awhile. Most of the adjustment guides on mine are just plain rusted and not working right. I'm trying to tweak it up, but this little machine has seen better days.

I'm using a 3/8" 6TPI blade right now and it's ok for straight ripping and even 90 degree crosscuts, but it makes shredded lettuce if I try and crosscut at any other angle across the grain. Dunno if I'm doing something wrong or not. My scrollsaw does the same, so maybe it's the nature of the cut and the wood or as usual it's probably my inexperience. Would I be better with an even smaller blade?? I end up with huge sanding and leveling issues by the time I've made the cuts. Taking ages to get it back to looking nice. I end up using my Dremel to sand it out in the hard to reach places, but even that leaves little dips here and there, that then still need to be sanded...seems like a never ending battle...I'd rather make a clean cut to begin with.

Wolf,

You shouldn't be having tearout while cutting angles that is what the bandsaw is for. I bet you blade is dull. And you could go all the way down to an 1/8" blade which would be easier on you bandsaws motor. I don't know much about scrollsaws except that vibration is your enemy. Some of the lower priced ones vibrate so much you can't get a good cut.

Yesterday I got my new miter saw settled in its home and even added some more wood storage just what I need.
Attachment 193462Attachment 193465Attachment 193464
I made 2 ZCL's for it as well. One for 90* cuts and one for 45* cuts.
Attachment 193463


Bret

Dunno what sort of scrollsaws you guys use but mine is a el cheapo and it cuts perfectly. Also on the bandsaw blades I only use 6 tpi by 1/4 and find they are very good for most jobs.
Phil

Hey Bret..Hey Prime! I'm currently struggling with doing the cutouts on the Norm Marshall Model T cars. I did the first one, but it took hours of sanding to get it looking decent. The cut requires a bandsaw(scrollsaw doesn't have the depth or the power). The block of wood is 3" thick and I'm using pine so it's fairly soft. I've figured out how to do the final cut with angling my table saw, but there are several cuts that just have to have a bandsaw, so far as I can figure. The outside cuts seem ok and they are easy to take to the belt sander, but cutting out the interior is a bugger! I predrill my holes and set it up the way he explains in the book, but my saw just leaves chatter all inside.

I really do think it's either my inexperience in setting up the bandsaw or the sad, poor condition of this particular bandsaw. I did get my bandsaw books today and have been reading like mad. I have a few ideas to try and at least I should be able to evaluate the saw and see if it's worth trying to fix up or just chunk it and get the little Skil 9" at Lowes. I've taken a close look at it at the store and it has lots of features that mine doesn't and the guides and such look way better than mine. I know it's a very cheap solution, but I just can't sink $500-1000 right now on a good 14" bandsaw. Most of the time I can get by with the tablesaw and the scrollsaw, so it's really only these huge blocks for these particular toys that are giving me trouble.

Any other thoughts are appreciated and I'll post when I get more info tomorrow. Maybe a picture or two as explanation too. Thx for the help!

PS...Bret...ZCI looks awesome and always room for more wood storage!

Wolf,

Which bandsaw books did you get? I have a few I could send your way. I understand the reason for not wanting to spend alot on the bandsaw but have you thought of looking on craigslist for a used one. Right now on the Austin Craiglsit there are several of the Craftsman 12" for $100 to $200. These are made by Rikon and are very good saws. Only catch is they don't use a standard length blade but its no worries you just have to mail order them from like Grizzly They are much better than the Skil one.

Just a thought I hate to see you waste time on a tool that just isn't worth it.

As far as blades I recommend the timberwolf brand skip tooth.

Bret

The two books I got are The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird and Band Saw Handbook by Mark Duginske. The Duginske book is the older version which from the reviews on Amazon is still better than his newer version. So far they've both helped immensely in understanding the whole setup and process.

I'm really not looking for a used machine. Most of the ones I've seen on Craigslist are rusted out and would need huge refurbishing to be useful..(ie new tires, blades, repaint, resurface tables, hardware, etc). I also want a smaller unit that I can set on my bench, rather than on a stand. I'm quickly running out of more floor space in the shop.

I actually did some more research again on Rikon and I think I might have found a unit that will fit the bill! It's the 10" Rikon 10-305 model. They have it on sale at Highland Woodworking for $249 right now. With miter gauge, 3 different blades and shipping costs, it still comes in around $375 total. It has a 4 5/8" cut capacity, which is a full inch more than the Skil or most others I've seen and should be enough for my needs. It will handle the 1/2" woodslicer resaw blade(also by Highland), which I've heard is better than the Timberwolf even. They also carry a full selection of the 70.5 inch blades so I have a good selection for different cuts. It's still more than I want to spend at the moment, but this saw looks like it will handle my needs better for years to come, without the expense of a full 14" saw. I watched a couple of demos on Highland's site and I can tell ya that I'm not getting anywhere near that nice a cut with what I have..so anything is an improvement at this point.

I still plan to work today to see what I can tweak if anything on my existing saw. I'm taking the books to the shop and stepping through the process with a new blade. Then we'll see what I get. I'll post some pics later to show what I'm getting. I've already sanded the other stuff I've cut so you can't see how rough it is.

The Rikon is a great little bandsaw. It has good reviews. If you happen to have a Woodcraft near you they also carry and you could save on the shipping cost. They have it for $279. Definatley alot better than the Skil. I noticed it even has ball bearing guides upper and lower. Those alone for an upgrade on a 14" bandsaw are $150.

Bret

Unfortunately the nearest Woodcraft is in Nashville about 2.5 hrs away. It's definitely a full tank of gas roundtrip, so it's still $40 whether it's shipping or gas cost, but ordering from Highland is $25 cheaper and no sales tax added..so it's actually cheaper all the way around. I did notice the ball bearing guides on the Rikon as well. The Skil just has the 1/4" round rods which is what my current B&D has and they suck big time!

I'm probably seriously going to look at Rikon....but to satisfy my own peace of mind(and stubbornness..LOL!) and the wife's, I'll still make one more running shot at tweaking the B&D. Then I'll have to do some juggling to get the Rikon. I'm hoping it's the last piece of the toy making setup I need. BTW...I did finally get a CMT compound table saw blade and it's friggin' awesome! You were right as always!