Thread: Another Tudor Dollhouse

I really like this mate!
I can't wait to see it all come together.
The individual bricks from egg cartons are fantastic!
I'm really going to enjoy watching you build this.
Great stuff!

Trevor.

Well, I am already stunned. This is going to be well worth watching! Egg cartons to make bricks, I would never have thought of that, but it will have the perfect texture. I'm watching this one, for sure!

Simply brilliant!

Looks really good - well done. Look forward to watching the progress.

Keith

Originally Posted by OtakiriLad

Some time ago I built a dollhouse which ended up going to my grandson and his wife. When it went out the door SWMBO just about tripped over her bottom lip so in a rash moment I said I would build her another one. After a bit of searching I came across this . . .
Dollhouse.jpg
. . . along with all the instructions at the British Collector’s Club website
http://www.collectors-club-of-great-...Part-1/_ft1190
Not wanting a large house I downloaded all the pages into a Word document and converted all measurements to ‘half-scale’ ie 1:24. In the last couple of months I have commenced building and then realised I had not taken photos nor posted progress – my most humble apologies, especially to ‘Crowie’ who demands full disclosure on all such projects. So I will start now.
TMH0001.JPG TMH0002.JPG
I have constructed the first room (the tavern) and the walls to the ‘Market Place’ and am at the stage of putting in the ceiling beams.

The walls are 3mm or 6mm ply with 2mm x 6mm strips of walnut stained pine. The floors are 2mm x 9mm merbau (I think) recovered from a builders skip. These strips I made myself from boards put through a thicknesser to the largest dimension and then cut into 2mm strips on the tablesaw.

The brickwork is made as individual bricks cut from painted egg cartons . . .
TMH0004.JPG
Top to bottom: raw carton, painted, cut into 3mm strips, cut into 3mm x 10mm bricks.
The chimney will be plastered and the few bricks on it will be left exposed to represent crumbling, distressed plasterwork.

A removable front panel has been built and finished on the outside. The original instructions call for the use of purchased windows but at half-scale I had to make my own using 1mm x 2mm strips for framing. The inside is yet to be done.
TMH0003.JPG
Lighting is via 3mm warm white LEDs and the fireplaces have flashing 5mm red, orange and amber LEDs embedded in the logs. I found an outfit in Tasmania who are web based and supply the 3mm LEDs at 15c each as opposed to the $2.45 I was quoted by the local branch of a National electronics supply place! Anyway, wiring on the side and rear will be hidden by false panels rather than taped over as per the original instructions.

More when I get organised and active.

Wel

Well "OtakiriLad", Firstly sir there is absolutely no need to apologize to someone like me.
I just really appreciate see blokes [& ladies] show off there craftsmanship and photos with notes are the bees knees.
This project of yours certainly looks first class, so THANK YOU for taking the time to share it with the rest of us.
Cheers, crowie

wow

what did the previous one look like

Seat drawn up, lamingtons to hand, smile on face!!!

Today has been one of connecting up the lights in the ‘Market Square’ – a sod of a job when working on a small scale with big stubby fingers like mine. The lights are made slightly differently to the method described in the instructions.
TMH0005.JPG
Take a length of moulding (9 x 6mm insert mould from the green shed in this case) and a bit of 3mm ply. Glue the moulding along the edge of the ply and when dry cut the ply to 15mm. Then slice into 4mm slices to achieve the light bracket. Next, clean up with a bit of sandpaper and stain. Then drill two 0.5mm holes diagonally through so as to hold the LED wires. Bend the wires to give about a 10mm standup section at the bulb end and the other end to be horizontal. Cut a drinking straw and slit it lengthwise so it can be rolled tighter and slipped over the light to represent the candle.

This business of using LEDs is complicated by needing resistors in the circuit. Much searching on the web lead to much confusion – you are assumed to have a doctorate in electrical engineering with astro-physics on the side – until I came across the following site . . .
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
Very useful. All lights are being fed off a 240v - 12v 2.5a AC/DC converter. Anyway they seem to work. In addition I have framed up the interior of the front access panel – just waiting to get a couple of miniature hinges for the door to complete that.
TMH0006.JPG
Next task is the ground floor ceiling / 1^st floor flooring.

Cheers

Nick - The previous dolls house is documented elsewhere in this forum as 'Building Crowie's Dolls House - A Slow WIP'. As yet I haven't worked out how to post a link to another thread but you should be able to find it using the forum search.
Cheers

thanks

Found it here

PS: Bloomin amazing, I'm gobsmacked

Looking good I will be watching the build on this one as I did the first one you made.


And thank you for the link to the dolls house build you found and some very good information on the LED set up.

Another one to follow, .

Once this one is completed we all need to come up with a way of getting you to give this away, thus your shocked wife will be asking for another doll house to be made.

The ceiling/floor was cut from 3mm ply, painted on the ceiling side and glued to the ground floor walls. When dry the house was upended and a 6mm x 6mm beam framework added in line with the wall beams. Infill 4mm x 4mm beams in line with the tavern ceiling beams also inserted.

TMH0007.JPG

Next step is the addition of the uprights and minor fiddly bits. All good fun. SWMBO was not impressed with the suggestion this one be disposed of.

Cheers

The uprights from 6mm x 6mm were inserted at strategic places followed by brackets and half-rounds.

TMH0008.JPG

The brackets were made from strips cut off a bit of scrap pine that had a 6mm cove cut along the edge using a router. These strips at 10mm x 10mm were then sliced to a 6mm section and glued round the top of each upright. The half rounds were made by planing down chicken kebab skewers and staining them. They were cut to length and fitted to the 6mm x 6mm beam framework in place of the suggested twisted rope moulding (just too small to find to purchase or make). The decorative mouldings were sliced from the moulding used to make the light brackets and placet in line with each of the ceiling beams.

The exposed wiring at the back and chimney side of the house has also been cleaned up and taped down with masking tape. As mentioned before this will be covered up by false panelling later.

TMH0009.JPG

Now for the first floor walls.

Cheers