Thread: Hiya. Female seeking some advice.

id trust an experianced tradesman long before il listen to an educated idiot.

hey im new to the forum but yes go all the way with experience those engineers and that would be just out of uni and only a few years experience n its not really the area of work so go wih the tradesman

I thought Perth was largely sandy, and that you would not have much trouble with water settling. That was the case when we lived in Ardross bak in the 1970s.

I would listen to a local tradesman first, then if his less expensive suggestions did not work, then go with the architect's recommendation

If there is no provision for storm and rainwater runoff, you are going to get problems of one kind or another.
Seems a shame that rainwater has no tanks to go to for re-use. Over here there are government subsidies to install rain tanks, perhaps it is the same in the west?
At the very least, installing rain tanks away from the house takes away the roof runoff, sends the tank overflow onwards and keeps the house and its foundations dry.
Worth a thought. I would do something about your water runoff though and my solution would be tanks followed by sending the tank overflow on its way into stormwater drains if they are available.
Cheers
SG

I have had good and bad with both, some plasterers can't even patch a crack let alone know what caused it and the same goes for Architects, as said above, many are educated idiots with no practical experience, theory is just that, a theory. Theory with practical experience is the goods if you can find it.

Oh and welcome to the forum.

G'day Okeroa and welcome aboard.!!

Bit of a quandry you have there.Scribbly's idea of rainwater tanks is a good one as you can still send any excess overflow to the council stormwater system.

As for the solutions offered by the architect and the engineer you need to rememeber that they are offering "top- end solutions" - probably in order to protect themselves from future court action if things go wrong.

as a carpenter, i could probably work out what is happening. if i could not work it out. my first call would be a licensed builder. luckily i know a few.
they deal with building problems on a daily basis and they are the people who actually rectify the problem.
an architect can point his finger and say this and that is the problem, but they never get their hands dirty. so i would take their advice with a pinch of salt.

not in a million years would i want advice from an architect, or a plasterer for that matter.
but a good engineer is priceless.
as was stated before, as long as the engineer is not a snotty nosed kid still wearing nappies, then their advice is usually pretty good.

next time call a builder, then if the builder recommends talking to an engineer, do so.

regards, justin.

I'd go the experienced engineer (with local knowledge) route if possible too but it can be tough when there's legal requirements that need some doofus with a bit of paper and a few letters after their name to sign off on something. (No offence to the non-doofuses with bits of paper and the letters )

It can be really tricky. Either way it's possible to get the wrong information and get ripped off.

I was going to buy a block of land a few years ago and asked the estate agent if it was possible to build a house on it and get utilities hooked up to it and he said "yeh no worries". Something didn't feel right so I went to council and it had an Aboriginal Heritage protection on it (if I dug up an artifact work had to stop), was in a flood zone, and I couldn't cut down trees to make room for a bloody tent. Basically the complete opposite of what I'd been told. So sometimes when someone has money at stake, they'll tell you any old thing just to get you to buy or spend on it.

Hu Okerora..
I owned an old house in Rivervale for about 22 years until moving to Cannington. I have never heard of drainage being a problem in WA. With our sandy soil drainage is not usually a drama unless your house is in an area with clay, as in Lesmurdie or Kalamunda where the clay expands in winter with the rain then contracts in summer as it dries out.

My old place had a few cracks in the plaster but they didn't go right through the bricks. I would get some more opinions before shelling out more money.

Firstly welcome to the forum.

Some very interesting advise. I find it very hard to comment on this as when you think about something then look at why this is the case I am sure that you will find another reason.

I am sorry but as you have already spent the money and completed the job it is too late to go back. I understand your logic for putting in the rainwater tanks at a later stage. Would you need all of them to go in at the same time? It there other options to the standard rainwater tanks? Can you complete this your self?

True what you say Beer...sand doesn't hold water..clay does. My first thoughts would be to remove some of the plaster and see if the cracks go right through the wall. Without doing that you don't really know what you're dealing with.

A bit more info would be good...
Type of plaster e.g. gyprock on timber stud walls or solid plaster on a brick/block wall
If lets say it's gyprock on a timber stud wall.... it would be unusual for any conduit/wiring to be in the plaster, the wiring is usually in the cavity that is provided by the timber studs and well clear of the plaster, the wiring will come thru a hole in the plaster and or stud if the light switch is archatrave mounted but wouldn't cause a crack like you have.

If it is a solid type masonary wall, (block/brick) it is likely that wiring may well have been chased into the wall before the plastering was done, it is also likely that if sparky was there as the block/bricks are layed that wiring will be in conduit within the wall itself and not chased into the surface of the block/bricks and therefore less likley to be the cause of your cracking....if wiring was chased (groove cut into blocks for wiring to run) then plastered over and was the cause of cracking it is likely that the crack will follow the chased out groove and will be a relatively straight line...this is probly what your plasterer bloke is thinking.

The thing that has me is the cracks are somewhat jagged, originate from the corner of what I am assuming is the corner of the door opening and goes across the cornice, also it looks like the cornice is cracking at the wall cornice junction, without further info or looking it has me thinking movement of some sort, it may be rain related ground movement or some other cause and if so I be thinking of getting a few more opinions...a good builder...a good civil engineer

How many cracks are there? Do they all originate from the corner of the door opening? Is it just above one door and the pics r from either side of the door?
Are you on a solid concrete raft slab? at ground level or Bored piers and posts?


Welcome to the forum btw

Peter

As pjt said, the cracks through the corner and cornice look more like ground movement to me.
Any new extensions or building works happed lately? Smimming pools etc.

If it is a sand base, then there should not be any ground movement.

Get the plaster opened around one of the cracks and see it there is any cracking in the bricks underneath. If there is, then you need to get a Civil Engineer on site to look at it, preferably a local one who does footings and foundations for a living in your area.

Any good professional Architect should not be advising on ground movements and wall cracking - that is not their area of expertise, and he would be putting his professional indemnity at risk.

If there was ground movement in a double brick house, then the cracks would be obvious in the external walls as well