Thread: Possitioning screw holes.

Originally Posted by Barry_White

Groggy

I dont have any problem with them wobbling and certainly make life easy.

I just had a look at the Vix Bits at Timbercon. What a ripoff.

http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/...its-362_0.aspx

Yikes! Cheaper to get a set from Rob Lee shipped by a slow turtle.

Originally Posted by redwood

am i missing something:confused: "You have to drill the hole anyway don't you?" in what:confused: pre-drill into the timber yes. but why on earth would you want blank hinges and have to drill and then countersink into them:confused:

The hard thing with hinges is getting all the holes concentric. If you had a blank hinge and drilled the counterbore hole through it and into the timber then it would be guaranteed to be concentric.

Maybe I'm the one missing something (it's late, I'm tired and running on paint fumes (3rd repaint of daughters room).

Originally Posted by redwood

am i missing something:confused: "You have to drill the hole anyway don't you?" in what:confused: pre-drill into the timber yes. but why on earth would you want blank hinges and have to drill and then countersink into them:confused:

Redwood

No No No. You use the countersunk hole in the hinge to center the Vix Bit or the Posidrive bit to centre the hole where it is needed. You don't use blank hinges.

Originally Posted by Barry_White

Redwood

No No No. You use the countersunk hole in the hinge to center the Vix Bit or the Posidrive bit to centre the hole where it is needed. You don't use blank hinges.

Barry, I was the one raising the blank plate issue, Redwood was questioning me.

Originally Posted by Barry_White

Redwood

No No No. You use the countersunk hole in the hinge to center the Vix Bit or the Posidrive bit to centre the hole where it is needed. You don't use blank hinges.

yeh thats ovious but whats groggy use a blank hinge for as the one in the pic shows?

Originally Posted by Groggy

I guess I should ask, why do they have to pre drill the buggers in the first place, it is inconvenient. A blank plate is better, then you can drill and CS the thing in place - done. Since I'm having a hinge whinge, why don't they use the correct angle for the CS too, half of 'em get it ballsed up and need to be resunk anyway.

Groggy, make your own. They are easy if you have an oxy. Much better action than comercial ones. They add a nice touch

Originally Posted by redwood

yeh thats ovious but whats groggy use a blank hinge for as the one in the pic shows?

Ok, lets start again. After reading the thread I wondered why we had to use vix bits "at all". The sole reason is that the holes are pre-drilled. That led me to wonder "why not just use a blank hinge with a non-drilled plate".

A quick search found they are available for sale (McMaster-Carr website).

So, if, in my experience, you need to clamp the hinge somehow, then drill a pilot hole in the wood (with or without a vix bit), with the associated bother of getting it dead center, and then possibly have to re-countersink the hole to the correct angle. Then, why NOT just get a blank plate, clamp, drill the pilot, countersink and be sure it is spot on.

That all it was folks, just thinking out loud - sorry.

Originally Posted by Groggy

Ok, lets start again. After reading the thread I wondered why we had to use vix bits "at all". The sole reason is that the holes are pre-drilled. That led me to wonder "why not just use a blank hinge with a non-drilled plate".

A quick search found they are available for sale (McMaster-Carr website).

So, if, in my experience, you need to clamp the hinge somehow, then drill a pilot hole in the wood (with or without a vix bit), with the associated bother of getting it dead center, and then possibly have to re-countersink the hole to the correct angle. Then, why NOT just get a blank plate, clamp, drill the pilot, countersink and be sure it is spot on.

That all it was folks, just thinking out loud - sorry.

Ahhh i see where your commin from

Not sure about all this newfangled ironmongery, vix bits, etc.

For hinges, I put the hinge where it will go, then trace the inside of the holes with a sharp pencil, taking care to hold the pencil upright, so as not to bias the circle. Then by eye, I judge where the centres of the little circles are, and mark with an awl. What I do next depends on how meaty the wood is. For thin walled boxes etc., I'd use a brad point bit, and put the central spur on the marked centre. For thicker stock or rougher work, e.g. door hinges, I'd mark with a centre punch and use a twist bit, which self-centres in the conical depression left by the centre punch.

Originally Posted by zenwood

Not sure about all this newfangled ironmongery, vix bits, etc.

For hinges, I put the hinge where it will go, then trace the inside of the holes with a sharp pencil, taking care to hold the pencil upright, so as not to bias the circle. Then by eye, I judge where the centres of the little circles are, and mark with an awl. What I do next depends on how meaty the wood is. For thin walled boxes etc., I'd use a brad point bit, and put the central spur on the marked centre. For thicker stock or rougher work, e.g. door hinges, I'd mark with a centre punch and use a twist bit, which self-centres in the conical depression left by the centre punch.

Zen, thats why i initionaly posted my idea. Even when you mark an accurate possition with an awl or pencil, its so easy to wander a fraction when you drill it. A no2# pozzi drive in the hinge hole fits snug (depends on the hinge size) and a quick burst will give a slight hollow dead center that your drill bit will settle into and give an accurate quick hole