Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    228

    Default Snipe from Thicknesser

    Just recently I tried an experiment to avoid snipe in some timber that I only had just about enough lengtth of and there was not enough to allow for cutting the snipe out.

    I have a 14 inch width thicknesser, which helps in this instance and the board I was thicknessing was 6 inches wide.

    I used two sacraficial pieces of timber around the same starting thickness of the 6 inch bit, but they were a good 4 inches longer at each end.

    The snipe went into the sacraficial bits but by the time the 6 inch bit came to the blades it gave no sign of snipe in the work piece.

    I have only done this once, so I cannot guarrantee that I have discovered anything really useful.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    One of the commonly published workarounds for snipe is to glue a couple of longer strips to the edges of the work so that they extend either end and run the composite component through to final thickness, then saw/joint the sacrificials of the edges.

    Sounds like what you did.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    One of the commonly published workarounds for snipe is to glue a couple of longer strips to the edges of the work so that they extend either end and run the composite component through to final thickness, then saw/joint the sacrificials of the edges.

    Sounds like what you did.
    I have not seen anything on this previously, but I did not glue the sacraficial bits on to my work piece, they just travelled through with the work bit, just as they would if you were thicknessing strips together.

    Any sacraficial bits would need to hang out either end by at least 100mm, depending on the thicknesser you use.

    My effort was a quick thought, and a one up experiment for me.

    I guess that if one had a long piece to do the you could use 4 bits and hold the first two as they start to go through the thickensser, and then feed two end bits as the tail come up. Sounds cumbersome I think.

    Of course, you only need to do this type of thing on the last one or two runs through the thicknesser as yu get to your final thickness.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    595

    Default

    Sounds like a good idea Black Bear - but I do have a worry about the possibility of kick back if the auxilliary pieces were not quite as thick as the main piece and did not get held down well by the feed roller or the anti-kickback pawls. I never had kickback on my thicknesser but I always stand slightly to one side just to be sure )

Similar Threads

  1. I fixed the snipe problems in my thicknesser !
    By JDarvall in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC
    Replies: 38
    Last Post: 23rd June 2013, 10:56 AM
  2. Article on thicknesser snipe
    By Wood Butcher in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 2nd May 2007, 07:53 PM
  3. Jig to stop snipe
    By boxers in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 9th March 2006, 09:54 PM
  4. Ryobi Snipe
    By Purse in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 1st February 2006, 07:51 PM
  5. thicknesser snipe (i hate it)
    By sean_in_ireland in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 27th August 2005, 02:30 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •