Thread: Boat/Camp trailer

Yeah, you can order an axle with disc brake flanges welded to it, even if you don't have the brake to start with, you can add them later.
BUT...
Discuss with your trailer parts supplier/axle manufacturer your requirements as there's a couple of different options. My choice for long term longevity, would be the Marinised Commodore caliper, and the Dexter Electric over Hydraulic system for the front of the trailer.
The reason for going the Commodore caliper is the ability to fit standard calipers at a pinch, or if it rarely sees salt water. And the Dexter system will work off any brake controller on the market, whereas if you got to AL-KO in Brisbane, their Electric/Hydraulic system will only work with itself, and uses a pressure pad system fitted to your brake pedal.

The Dexter system is distributed by Melbourne Trailer & Caravan Supplies down here in Melbourne, but they can either sell interstate, or contact them to see if there's a Qld outlet they wholesale to.


Also, with your rims. Get some galv'd rims with the same stud pattern to put on your old trailer, and use the flash alloys on the camper. Reason being, those alloys are rated higher than a steel rim, not that your going to be excessively heavy anyway.

Hi Yonne,

Thanks for the info on the brakes. I haven't decided on what brakes to go with yet. I'm not sure what weight the trailer will end up yet. I'm hoping to keep it under 1000kg. It will definetly be over the 750kg limit but. I will Melbourne Trailer & Caravan Supplies a call when i ready to order the brakes.

I like your idea about using the wheels off the other trailer but i was hoping to get a bit mor clearance under the axle for sand towing. So I will probably go with a 15/16 inch rim.

I started pricing steel in brisbane today. 75x50x2 rhs ranged from $110 to $155 a length exculding GST. 3mm thick 75x50 was only $1 dearer then the 2mm at one place. Would this be right. Would I be better off using 3mm if this is the case

Anyone know a cheap place to buy steel in brisbane.

Also can i get the trailer certified before i get it galvanised in case i have to make any changes to it.

Cheers

Michael.

Bear in mind, even with only 13" rims your axle will probably clear sand ruts before your diff pumpkins, and you can put tall light truck tyres on them.

For the extra $1, the 3mm will greatly increase long term longevity.

And you should be able to register it, then galvanize it after, as long as the changes you make aren't changing the external size of the trailer, or it tare weight too much.

Hi All,

Well I have been away for a couple of weeks. I have just got back and started on pricing trailer parts for my project. The list so far includes.

45mm round mechanical disc brake axle fully assembled $500
4 leaf shackle springs 45 x 8 non gal $147/pair
2 tonne mechanical overide coupling $125
hand brake plate & Cable $70
Fish plates, shackles etc $80
13" alloy wheel & tyre $175/each
mud guards $36/each

After some net research these prices look about average if not a little high. What do other people think. Can anyone recommend a trailer parts place in brisbane.

My other question is that most of the trailer parts place i have spoken to always promote that their equipment is not the cheap "Made in China" crap that is sold at larger chains.......

So the question is would you use equipment made in china on your trailer. Is there parts you wouldn't use that were made in china

Cheers

Michael.

Hi

I have used a place at Beenleigh called active fabrications, I have built 4 car trailers and have found there products great for my intended use and very well priced, I think some of there stuff is made in China, no worries to me.

Originally Posted by Yonnee

For the extra $1, the 3mm will greatly increase long term longevity.

Yonnee.
I have to disagree. Thicker does not neccesarily mean stronger.
Micheal use 75x50x2 RHS over 65x35x2.5RHS The strength mainly comes from the size of the section. Using 2mm is plenty strong enough and it keeps the weight down.
See http://www.rorty-design.com/content/...._strength.htm
I would suggest cutting up some 50x 3 flat bar into say 300mm long flat diamond shape pieces and use these for doubler plates where the A frame joins onto the main frame. I would reccomend using 75x50x3 RHS for the central drawbar.
Slipper springs are OK if you weld a sacrificial wear block (reccomend 6mm thick) where the spring rubs on the angle iron.
Do some web research on design for galvanizing. Mt first reccomendation is to use a mitre joint acrross the back of the frame. Capping the RHS frame members at the rear can lead to the hot zinc pooling inside the RHS and inreasing your weight and galvanizing cost. If you use doubler plates drill a 6-10 mm hole near the bottom so that there is no problem (explosion in the zinc tank) during galvanizing.
Regards Whitworthsocket